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singlecoil

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singlecoil last won the day on February 16 2011

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  1. There's one on Ebay now for 1950.00. Really a fair price except no-one that wants it for just playing is going to pay 500.00 more for it.. I agree with the collector comment. That one online looks like it's had a fair bit of hard use as well. Not sure why he listed it as Immaculate. Maybe it's just the poor picture quality you get with Ebay. If you list yours there make sure you post your pictures in the description. That way you can really see a nice veiw of the guitar. Maybe wait and see what it sells for. Yours will be going to it's 3rd owner? If that's correct hopefully you have the paperwork. It always makes me wonder why a guitar gets passed around. What's so wrong with it??
  2. Personally I see no point in buying a guitar I have to make that drastic of an adjustment to play. I watched a video of someone playing a I35 that way. Sounded good.. Lot more costly guitar, Yet everyone raves about the quality and balance. It looks to be in between the size of a 339 and a 335 . And I know where there's a local one to check it out with. Thanks for the valued input. As always it's appreciated. Even if it's not always what I hoped to here.
  3. That would be nice. From the comments. It sounds if you're a bit smaller in stature the guitar works fine. I wonder if the 336 presents the same problem. Most likely.
  4. Are any of you guys 8' tall with long arms. This guitar seems to cramp me. Like the body goes behind me.
  5. The whole idea was weight. I suppose I could look around and try to find a lighter 335. There out there. Another alternative is a used Collings I-35 - Actually they just started making a laminate more like the 335 this year. I stand a lot myself. But who want's to stand to play a guitar all the time. I was quite disappointed because I like the tone of this thing. I am tall and really felt cramped sitting with this. Maybe a 335 is what I'm stuck with.
  6. Gibson 339 fights you from a seated position. I've played 2 of these so far. Prior to this I have played the 339 mostly standing. Last evening I was forced to sit with it. Prior to this my playing had all been a few minutes by myself and the guitar seemed ok. Just noodling. Last night having to keep up with the rest of the band was a *****. Definitely not good past the 7th. Sorta bummed out -because I like this guitar or thought I did. Last night was a *****. At least for me seated I felt like I was fighting the guitar to keep it balanced on my knee. The body was all behind me . Quite frankly it's made me second guess the 339. My left hand ached terrible. So much so I'd have to rest it every 10 minutes. I think because I felt like I was holding the guitar up and playing at the same time. I have never experienced a guitar that had such crappy balance seated. I have played 335's hard in that seated position and don't remember it being that much of a struggle. This happen to anyone else. Maybe this is a guitar for a smaller person. I thought I read somewhere that the 336/56 was a better balanced guitar. With the horn cut somewhat different.
  7. That would be great Billy: Except they don't have Red in stock. I have a gig where the Bride is insistent on a Red one. It's a long story, but they are making it well worth my while to buy the guitar in Red. How do you get a 15% discount?
  8. I didn't even pay attention to that. Spell checker fixed it. Thanks for fixing it for me..
  9. I've never seen a nut cracked. Stripped ya, but not cracked. Is your home really dry. I'd try cleaning thing up as mentioned. It's not unusual for strings to loosen especially new strings. Did you stretch the strings out? Also if the relief gap grew that much in 1 week. That means the guitar probably got used to it's surroundings. If your humidity is in the 20's that's a very dry environment for a guitar. Perfect humidity is 47% I think in the winter at least in states like Michigan where we get down into single digit temps. low 40's high 30's is still pretty good. If you do tighten the nut. Do so only 1/4 of a full turn and let it set for a few days. It doesn't take much to get it right. I would check my furnace as well. Do you have a humidifier on the furnace? If not you should put a damp ( Not Wet ) sponge in the case when storing. Personally I don't own a bunch of guitars. I've bought a bunch -but like to only keep 4-5 for ownership. None of them see a case unless I'm on the way to a gig. When they are home they are on hangers and stands ready to be played. Good luck
  10. Take it to a good Luther. If indeed it's to close to the nut . New holes can be drilled. The old holes can be filled in with a tiny piece of wood and the hole fixed with super glue than stained or touched up. It's a very minor thing. You'd never know the old hole was there. Luther's who have been around awhile will know exactly what I am referring to. Or just go with your original plan. Get a new saddle. Or last but not least: Get a compensated nut Compensated Nuts Lots of companies have these
  11. Some of it could be an illusion. The easiest way to tell is slip the bridge off. I spoke with a Luther yesterday http://www.stepupguitars.com/He does it for a full time living. He said he sees quite a bit of bent posts in Gibsons ES series. I'm sure most of the problem comes from there being no insert to thread the posts into the body. Sproggie to take care of the wheel spinning so easy . Next time you clean the guitar. Take off the bridge . Than put a little loctite ( Blue Strength ) on the post just at the top of the wheel. it will run down and take care of you easy spin problem. Make sure it's the blue strength. Full strength Red is ok if you're absolutely sure that's where you want the bridge. For those that find their posts bent. You can use the red loctite in the same manner. Once dried it will be easy to spin the old post out. Using the wheel for leverage. They make a tool to get the posts out. Pricey though The thread locker works good. Your new set of steal posts should come with a set of wheels.
  12. Go buy some saddles and have Your Luther cut it for you//
  13. Yeah the guitar Center on my side of the state is a pit of junk. They are so high pressure I had a sales person follow me into the bathroom to talk. I only go in there to look at what I might be interested in elsewhere. The pedal guy was cool - but I knew exactly what I wanted. I could be wrong but I see quite a few times where MF has that used section in the same link where you'd by the guitar as new. PERSONALLY : A Coa is just a Piece of paper. If I knew for sure I'd never sell the guitar who'd care. I don't understand why you couldn't just bring your guitar into an authorized Gibson Dealer for Authentication. What would be the point in making something that isn't the customers fault cost them money to correct. Oh wait a minute that's why the economy is so bad. Nobody wants to work any more or stand behind what work they do. Brain Fart Sorry..
  14. Dave At the risk of sounding like a Know it all. I haven't owned many Gibson guitars. I have worked on hundreds. Same with Rickenbacker and Gretsch. With that ABR or similar Bridge that sets on posts. Unless you always change one string and a time, and even then. - You have to hold the bridge level while snugging the strings. They can't make the posts to big or the bridge won't slide on. There is always some play. It's something the average person doesn't think about. These companies that make the locking bridge eliminate that problem. Although most think they are getting the locking type to eliminate the accidental raising or lowering of the adjustment wheels. Granted it works for that as well. I've seen bridges that even if you hold them. During the process of stretching the strings the bridge just naturally tilts. Guitars I set up I'd see again for something. It many cases the bridges had developed a forward lean.Same if you tighten your truss rod with tuned strings. It's just the nature of the beast. My guess on why the 339 seems to have more intonation issues than it's parent 335 . Has to do with the size of the body and the bridge being whatever little difference it is closer to the nut. That's just a guess. Which may be wrong. It does make sense logically that if your bridge tips forward it creates slack in the strings. Everything is closer on the 339 vs 335 so that minor tilt affects the string more. In theory shortening the distance between the saddles and the nut. Changing the intonation adjustment. When you get home and examine your saddles. You'll find they are not centered. I looked at my 339's they are off center. So Sproggie is right. Places like callaham or Tone Pros say not to buy pre-notched saddles unless your current saddles are center notched. This guy seems to say that doesn't matter with his setup. http://www.cvgshop.com/p109/ABRH-Bridge/product_info.html Watch the video: I mean to call him and ask how that works with a 339 set up. It appears all his saddles are Center pre-notched. I would think that would make a terrible mess of string spacing. Not sure what he has done to correct that. Personally minor intonation being off is not really an issue. I think the action is a bit smoother with a level bridge. But if you think back to when most of the famous songs we enjoy were made and played. They had no way to know if intonation was off a few cents. Not until Chromatics did the average player concern themselves with this. Even today it's near impossible to get it perfect and have it stay that way. The naked ear ( Even the Electronic ear ) can't hear it. Measure it maybe-But hear it? Never. Nothing is perfect. Best of luck. Let us know about your bridge. I'm curious myself.
  15. Doing that would cost me more than just selling it for less. As for Missing COA's and Musiciansfriend selling guitars as new that someone else tried. That's incorrect. I don't know about GC. But MF sells all returns as used. I bought a nice Fender Customshop that way. Saved 800.00. Not a thing I could see wrong.
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