jibberish

Is your drop to 10s because you frequently bend strings?

What brand/model/gauge strings do you feel sound the best on your guitar?

Would an LG-1 that had its ladder bracing replaced with x-bracing be an LG-2??? As far as I can research the bracing would be the ONLY difference. Follow-up question: If you are a PLAYER (not a collector) and you wish to have a vintage LG-2, would you buy the cheaper LG-1 and have the bracing converted??? (all other detail considerations being equal, of course)

Got it. Here we must PM each other to avoid crabby old men from interjecting and telling people what to do.

I'm hiring. How much does mamma cost?

Ahhhh...I see now. Earlier when you mentioned "Badland" I thought you were referring to our Badlands area in South Dakota here in the US. Certainly makes more sense now. Thanks!

The guitar certainly is wonderful! No doubt about it! The story, however, would be more interesting knowing how much (or how little) money was spent buying and restoring it.

"Cheap" is as much as you're willing to give us???

I have calipers. Im curious what measurements others are getting. I want to compare top thickness between LGs of similar antiquity.

1) Thank God that you have good taste in guitars! Reading questions about the Songwriter or G-Series models can really suck the soul out of someone. 2) K&K Pure Mini, and a Fishman Rare Earth Blend are known to be the best, and used by the best.

What did it cost you at the pawn shop??? In 2018 any pawn shop would have known about guitars on the internet. So I can't imagine one would let it go for any kind of steal.

Any owners out there of a 1950 (or there about) LG-1 that wouldn't mind helping a fellow geek? If you have some calipers, could you please measure the thickness of your guitar top in various places...say, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock (while looking from saddle to nut)? My mission: Most folks know that Ladder Bracing vs. X is the main difference between the LG-1 and LG-2, however some have said that top thickness may also come into play. Well, I have a 1950 LG-2. So I am curious about possible difference in our tops' thicknesses. Thanks!

Thanks. Just so I completely understand your take on this, to answer my original question you would say, "Yes. If everything has been done properly, your guitar should still be in tune when a capo is placed at the 5th fret, for example." Correct?

Although not a luthier nor guitar tech, I've read just about everything there is to read on the concept and practice of guitar intonation (even here), but I've failed to read anything that satiated my curiosity. So I'll ask here: When your guitar is operating flawlessly (subjective, whatever that is) - can you tune it up E-to-E, place a capo on, say, frets 3-7 and have all strings still be in tune? Should they be? Is it just me, or do most professional singer/songwriters throw capo's on and off without excessive re-tuning, and without playing many notes out of tune? * A few things to save some of you the time: 1) I understand that capos are different, some clamp, some tighten, etc and someone can easily overtighten a capo to make strings sharp. 2) I am speaking about acoustic guitars with a plain ol' saddle. Heck, if it makes it easier, let's say only a one-piece uncompensated bone saddle on a vintage Gibson acoustic. 3) Furthermore, I also understand that most electric guitars have bridges and saddles that allow better for such nuanced intonation/set-up. So no need to mention this. Thanks!

My original post must have been entirely too ambiguous. So let me try this: If one took a 1949 LG-1, replaced the L-bracing with X-bracing, would it now be built exactly the same as an LG-2???