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Bjorn218

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  1. Replace the switch with a branded Switchcraft switch. Keep the Gibson switch for future sales if desired. These are parts that aren’t scrutinized as badly as other parts as they are considered consumables. Switchcraft is the company who designed the selector switches and their product is superior to other switches. It’s worth the 30 you’ll spend on it. It will last forever if you are not regularly gigging. If so it’ll last you at minimum 7-10 years of nighty performances as long as you aren’t a sweating beast like some of us.
  2. There should not be a problem with Gibson sending you out a replacement nut on your dime. Did you ask for a freebie? Maybe submit a request to pay for the replacement but you would like it a Gibson part to keep the instrument original spec. I wouldnt be holding my breath though. I wrote them a few months back asking if there was a way I could obtain a truss Rod cover for my Gothic V as the logo had just about rubbed completely off and it actually looks bad. I specifically stated that I wanted no gratis service and Paul g for it at premium cost to me was alright. I was told that since that was a special run, they no longer have any of those type parts as a replacement. I emailed back that they do not have any plain black arrow shaped truss Rod covers for a Flying V? Stated no they do not use them currently on any lose so they are unavailable. I did write a third time asking how they outfitted the custom 58 model offered then? It should t be so damn difficult to purchase a part for your guitar. Especially when I k is for a fact, there are at minimum some unbranded parts in the warehouse and someone could run a bit of silver ink through a screen to produce the item if I’m willing to pay for it. If not Gibson, then suggest a authorized supplier. It’s not like some aren’t willing to maintain their gear on our own. Besides the large V truss Rod cover was used until what three years ago across the product line? Doesn’t matter now as I purchased replacement material, traced the shape, and used a friends truss Rod cover to make an exact scale trace of the logo and made my own. Then to be cheeky I took it to the local “ collector” shop and asked him what he thought. He asked me to make him three
  3. Sorry folks I am trying for the Flying V circuit 50s wiring. Forgot to mention that above. Brain fart on me. Sorry.
  4. Yeah mines not letting me upload the 45k size file. It’s the 50s wiring of the Flying V circuit
  5. 50s wiring Flying V circuit. A little further on the page. It’s not letting me link to image in question.
  6. I have wired my guitar many times. This is the first I’m trying to wire it this way. I am rebuilding the componants so there are new wires.
  7. It’s all good. Everyone has their personal likes.
  8. Can someone please explain to me how to wire this up so it actually works? it is the 50s wiring circuit. Not independent volume. http://www.dominocs.com/AshBassGuitar/WireLibrary-Gibson.html I was sent here by a Gibson dealer.
  9. Raise your stop bar until the strings are not touching the bridge. That’s part of the problem with your buzzing. Slamming the stop bar to the body does not help sustain better regardless of what anyone online has said. next time you change strings, pull the bridge off and remove the thumbwheel and place the guitar on a solid surface Padding only to protect finish, then with your thumb press down on that bushing. It will probably go a little further into the body than it is. Do not push past the surface of the body. This is a minor issue and mainly cosmetic more than anything. At least the guitar didn’t have the factory but shimmed with construction paper and the same guitar had a factory stripped truss Rod because whoever was in charge of putting those in the guitar had a bad day and cross threaded the nut. Leaving a total of 1/4 turn travel anything needing more was never discovered until I bought t he instrument. 8 years after the warranty ran out. A guitar bought online that you haven’t set up yet where just the bridge bushing is not set fully and shows no sign of lacquer damage isn’t an issue.
  10. What's the difference between linear and logarithmic pots? Explanation: https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/workshop/circuitnotes/Potentiometers-audio-taper-vs-linear.html What pots should I get? This is for the volume controls. Brand and model/type would be nice. I'd also like to buy them from a fairly large and reputable website (e.g. Amazon, Sweetwater, Musiciansfriend, Sam Ash, zZ Sounds etc.) A good quality brand which for guitars built in the US means CTS or Bourns because they use imperial measurements for the physical dimensions of the pot both are exceptional true to spec I personally use Bourns low friction line, which means nothing more than they are chosen because they take less force to move them from off to on (great for doing those chimey swelling note tricks and quick on and off stuff), but they don’t cost any more than others, just are set aside from a manufacturing run where they aren’t built to perfect specs meaning they are in a manufacturing standpoint off lesser quality, but real world no different still last years Do I need to get two different types of pots for the rhythm and treble pickups? Not unless that’s what you want to do a set of 500K across the board will do you fine Will I need to replace anything else? I understand that modern Gibsons come with a motherboard like wiring layout. if you’re pulling the pcb, just enough hookup wire to rewire the circuit you’ll need a tone cap as well. Any low voltage non electrolytic capacitor in a value from .015uf to .033uf will work. The higher this number, the more treble gets shunt to ground when rolling off the tone control. Any cap will do and they are so inexpensive that rolling them(trying out different values/brands/type of capacitor) can be a fun adventure. A couple good brands are the orange polyester caps known as orange drops that brand was Sprague who also make the 192P “Pacer” caps (I use this type .015uf/200v I had value around), Mallory 150, Cornell Dublier(Illinois Capacitors) MPW, any Vishay metal film or ceramic capacitor, these are all sub $2/per brand and types. Go up from there and Sozo is a good brand, Auratone from France are real good but the cost vs what you actually hear is debatable (these run $10/per, solos are around $5 iirc). I will say one thing to hopefully make a point after the above, DO NOT think a lot of dosh for some secret capacitor is what you must do. I use premium type caps because I also work on tube guitar amps for a portion of my income, so I have them always on hand. Otherwise, a $.03 no name ceramic capacitor from radio shack sounds no different than a $12 Auratone in a guitar circuit if they are wired to a switch in your guitar and you can switch between the two to test them If you play with you’re tone full on, it is electrically removed from the circuit anyway. I didn’t tell you the above to make you buy expensive capacitors for your guitar at all, you just asked the question, so passing along info. If you do decide to go that route and I would suggest starting with either the current orange drops, nos 192P, or Cornell mpw. Only because they are vastly upgraded quality compared to any Vishay which makes 95% of consumer use componants and still cost you less than $5 for one of each Again if you take that route for fun, make sure to purchase from a reputable company such as Mouser, Digikey, Newark, stay away from eBay you will get ripped off and do not buy anyone’s Bumble Bee tone caps unless you know exactly what to look for. There was a company who made repops and advertised they were specially made When they came in, someone paid the $99 took it apart and found out it was just a $1 cap dipped in epoxy made to look like the real deal cough cough. Do you suggest/recommend anything else? Not just potwise but anything. Your selector switch and jack. If you’re going to replace stuff. Make sure you replace these with genuine Switchcraft branded parts. The jack will run $3.99 and the switch $31.99 from switchcraft. Don’t buy the switch from anyone else unless you can hold the package in your hand and see the name switch craft on it, and only then if you can score it for less than $30. For your SG, the 90 degree switch is the one to get. It’s the same one I use on my V and I just replaced mine (third in 12 years) last week. Oh wait. Pure Tone makes good jacks. They are twice the price of a switchcraft and so far I’m in the fence about them. That was installed last week. My negative towards them is that the wiring diagram they offer is garbage, and because of the way they are built, making sure the solder lug for the tip and sleeve is a little hard to see. Especially when you’re sent a stereo jack what you ordered mono. I hope this might help some. Not trying to be arrogant or a know it all. I was once where you are at and I wish I had someone more experienced offer free advice to me. I would have saved a whole lot of money over the past 38 years. So when I can, I try to pay it back to newer players. Wait til you are confident enough to do these types of things on your own and lay out a few bills for decent equipment and supplies. You’ll be obsessing over solder size, Teflon vs pvc coated hookup wire, liquid vs paste flux, whether or not you should break out the iron or your rework rig to swap the burnt capacitors on a pedal because the rework kit takes longer to set up yet will do the job perfect first time and the iron will be faster but might not get the part on the pad right the first 5 times. While pots caps and guitar wiring gets to where you try to do a bragging worthy wiring job that looks almost military spec.
  11. You would be better off to spend that cash on a set of Doug Aldrich signature pickups from Suhr Guitars if your heart is set on swapping out pickups. That sig set are the best made for a Les Paul and go from very vintage sounding to hot rodded super hot with pot adjustments and pick attack. The cost for the set is similar to Gibson’s fancy pickups as well. IMO sound better as well (yes they are that good).
  12. Last year I took a sheet of brass and nickel plated it for my Gothic V. Even if you just use brass, if you make the cover for the truss Rod cover as well, it should turn out nice.
  13. Photos. With you holding it please. This is a bucket list Guitar. I have never seen one in person in the past 22 years this line has been around. I always looked at the Gothic E335 as the Gibson equivalent to the last Duke Nukem game.
  14. Hello and greetings from Texas. Decided to join because, well, this is probably the one online community where mentioning a Flying V won’t be followed by a question, “What brand?” See I love Flying V’s, and geek out whenever I see them in the wild. Personally they are the best statement of badass and this is a Rock&Roll guitarist that the company should be utilizing in their marketing. While the Les Paul is the flagship, they are also about as exciting as paint drying. Then again I tend to be a little on the rebellious side of things. No, I don’t consider an Explorer a wild shape either. Nothing is wild about flaccid and the Explorer’s headstock says it all.
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