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SC_Wannabe

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Everything posted by SC_Wannabe

  1. Wow, super nice bird there! I think you made the right move.
  2. Very nice all the way around! I listened to your Decatur song - I'm just a few miles up the Sangamon from you in Monticello.
  3. In all fairness, I don't think that a pre-war D28 was the 'bone that the J60 was meant to compete with. I'm pretty sure it was Gibson's response to the modern HD-28. Whether it can crush that 'bone or not, I don't know. I do like the tone of the J60 from what I've heard on the internet though.
  4. That's pretty impressive! How many is "a few"? Hopefully if someone here bought it, they will post some pics and their impressions. I always figured if I was going to buy used through GCs website, I would call the GC that had the guitar and get an in-hand description and some better pics if possible. I'm not sure if you have to pay up front to have it delivered to the GC nearest you, but at least if you don't like it you can get your money back. I'm not sure about shipping though.
  5. Here's a nice opportunity for someone. I'd love to own one of these, but there are other Gibsons in line first on my GAS list. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Gibson/J-60-Acoustic-Electric-Guitar.gc
  6. G and B strings are the two most common that I break, and it happens much more frequently if I'm tuning/detuning a lot (like when I'm sanding down a saddle and repeatedly test fitting it). I don't use Elixers, and the breaking seems to happen equally to other string Brands (Martin, D'Addario, John Pearse).
  7. OK, after some momentary insanity that involved editing and then de-editing the original post above, I checked my original Sweetwater order documentation and these strings were indeed D'Addario EJ11 12-53 lights. I agree with MP - play what sounds good to you (although I don't see how extra lights could possibly sound good on a straight braced dread )
  8. So true, but what kind of surprised me is that the lights responded very well, even better than mediums, to a light touch. These were 12s...but looking at the D'Addario website I'm not sure if they were 12/53 lights or 12/56 lights (light top/med bottom). My memory of the package color says they were the 12/56s, which kind of negates my original post because the bottom 3 strings are the same gauge as mediums. Oops, I guess I need to check the package when I get home. http://www.daddario.com/DADProductFamily.Page?ActiveID=3768&familyid=8&productname=80_20_Bronze_Wound
  9. The previous "Strings choking a guitar" thread got me to wondering how lights would do on a Martin dread. I had a D18V in the past and as I recall lights made that guitar sound anemic, so I thought putting lights on a straight braced dread would sound even more anemic. Even so, over weekend I decided to try some D'Addario 80/20 lights on my straight braced D18. I've always heard that mediums are needed to drive a Martin dread top, especially a straight braced top, but the lights are actually fine. In fact, they do for the D18 what light strings do for my J50, which is that they seem to allow more resonance at a lower picking force. I did lose some horsepower, but I don't have a heavy picking hand so I was never fully realizing the potential of the mediums anyway. For my style, I think the lights actually sound better.
  10. I bought my 2007 J50 new in the fall of 2009, so it had been sitting in the shop for maybe 1.5 or 2 years. The strings that were on it were the best sounding strings it's ever had, and I'm always trying to get back to that tone. Haven't made it yet. I'm currently trying a couple different sets of 80/20s (Masterbuilts and Earthwoods) to let them age and see if they give me that tone of the original strings. For strings that hold their tone long term, try nickel wound. In the past I really didn't like them on my J50, but for whatever reason last year I tried a set of John Pearce pure nickel lights and liked the tone. They were on the guitar for several months and the tone didn't change. I also play JP pure nickel mediums on my Martin dreads for the tone and longevity.
  11. See above edited post for Martin strings.
  12. This is what I perceive as well, although I'm not playing a vintage guitar. This is where the Med/Light string sets can be a good in between. My next string order will include some Newtone nickel strings, which I've never tried before. Newtone Acoustic Guitar Master Class Nickel MCNI6-1254 - .012 .016 .024 .034 .044 .054 Newtone Acoustic Guitar Master Class Nickel MCNI6-1256 - .012. 016. 026. 036. 046. 056 Newtone Acoustic Guitar Master Class Nickel MCNI6-1356 - .013. 017. 026. 036. 046. 056 The 1256 strings look like an interesting gauge mix. And some of Martin's in between offerings, compared to their Med and Light gauges: Martin MSP4100 Acoustic SP Phosphor Bronze Light - 012 016 025w 032w 042w 054w Martin MSP4150 Acoustic SP Phosphor Bronze Light/Medium - 0125 0165 0255w 0335w 0435w 055w Martin MSP4200 Acoustic SP Phosphor Bronze Medium - 013 017 026w 035w 045w 056w Martin MSP4250 Acoustic SP Phosphor Bronze Bluegrass - 013 017 026w 036w 046w 056w
  13. My J50 experience has been that with mediums you gain volume, but you have to play harder to realize that gain. If you (or rather "I") strum med strings with the same force I use for lights, then the guitar will sound choked. If I hit them hard, then it comes alive. but sounds different than with lights. It looses a lot of the "Gibson" tone. I've went to mediums several times, but in the end they just aren't for me because I have a light touch and only play at home. If I were playing out with others in an acoustic setting, maybe I would develop a heavier hand and prefer the mediums. Edit: I will add that I like mediums on my straight braced D-18 and D-28 (but then again I've never tried lights on those guitars so who knows...).
  14. I've tried 13s on my J50 from time to time. They definitely feel stiffer than 12s and you have to play harder to get a good tone (I have a light touch though). My J50 always requires a truss rod tweak when going from 12s to 13s, or vice versa. I've never had to make any adjustments to the nut, but I don't know if they were plek-ing them in 2007. A nice in-between string gauge to beef up your sound a bit are med/light strings, where they are heavier than lights on the bottom, but light on the top. I like those better than regular mediums.
  15. Something small and boxy. Baby Taylor.
  16. Thanks for the heads-up, Jesse. I'll definitely keep EM Shorts in mind when I'm ready to buy.
  17. Congrats on your NGD. The sunburst top looks awesome and really sets yours apart from the rest. I was in a local shop a while back and actually avoided playing the J15 because I was afraid of the uncontrollable GAS it would induce...
  18. OK then. I'll try manning up on my pick grip and give the BCs another try. B) I do like the way the feel in the hand.
  19. I've never bought from Maury, but I've bought 3 Martins from Jon at My Favorite Guitars. Each time I just called and asked for the price of whatever guitar I was interested in, and it was always 40% off list. I've always ordered over the phone. I'm guessing that emailing a blanket price quote on every Martin guitar they have may be skirting too close to the boundary of Martin's MAP agreement. I think Elderly stopped emailing Martin quotes several years ago.
  20. I guess I'm not hearing things the same as others when it comes to Blue Chip picks. I've tried them in 35, 40, and 50 thicknesses, and the thing that bothers me the most about them is how much much they click on the strings.
  21. I've tried Blue Chip, Wegen, and JP Fast Turtle picks, but really didn't care for any of them. Maybe it's my playing style, I don't know. On the J50 I've went through several "favorites" -- Dunlop Ultex, Cool Pics like Sal described above, and others I can't remember. Right now my favorite is a good old Dunlop Tortex .73 mm (yellow) (or maybe the green .88 m version on a rare occasion).
  22. Thanks Sal, I'll call around. The only bird my local shop has right now is a blackbird, and I didn't care for the looks or sound of it. Regarding the Martin pricing... "60% of" = "40% off" I always calculate "60% of". It's much easier for me to calculate the discount price by multiplying the list price by 0.6, than to multiply by 0.4 and then subtract it again from list.
  23. I asked this question in another thread and got some street prices for the UK, but what is the US street price for a new 2016 Hummingbird? For Martin, there are several online dealers that will sell at 60% of (or 40% off) list price. Smaller shops will give some discount off the minimum advertised price (MAP), but the discount ranges from shop to shop. Is there a rule of thumb like this for larger and smaller Gibson retailers?
  24. Nice. I'm not in the market for one of these, but someone will get a nice guitar for a decent price. Regarding the description saying "mahogany", I think the that is just the stock Gibson write-up for a J45 standard they pasted in there.
  25. I saw this used J45 on the GC website listed as a Standard: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Gibson/J45-Standard-Acoustic-Electric-Guitar-112387450.gc Obviously this is some sort of special edition. Just curious as to what it is. At the price listed, it looks like a deal for someone.
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