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cayine

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Posts posted by cayine

  1. On 8/2/2024 at 8:35 PM, fortyearspickn said:

    OP -   realize it's been 7 months, don't know if you got your problem solved or check back here or get 'alerts' for responses...

    Anyway - the subject of 'lifting pickguards'  has been discussed here many times, often in great detail.  There are different kinds, the SJ200 and H'Birds, obviously will cost a lot more to replace.  Some have success removing it, flattening it and re-applying it.   The devil is in the details.  The p/g on my SJ200 was lifting about 1/8" years back. I put a very small piece of micro thin 3M double sided tape on it, and a couple of books for a couple of days and that fixed it.  Suggest you 'search' for the topic.  Or PM a moderator to help you get the 'search' function to find what you need.  G'Luck. 

    DNash   - Sorry, I'm even less help on your problem.  Not familiar with SJ200s with volume, treble and base knobs.   Mine has a simple UST pickup. 

    Maksimum seviyeye yükseltilmiş ve kilidi açılmış tüm dövüşçüler, özel görünümler, sınırsız para ve mücevherler, ayrıca erişime açık yıldız gücü, gadget’lar https://nullsbrawlindir.com.tr/, dişliler ve diğer birçok mod özelliği ile Brawl Stars oynanışının ne kadar heyecan verici olabileceğini hayal edin.

    Just watched a YouTube on Greg Lake expressing his absolute enjoyment of the J200. He had quite a few. He talked about them intimately like they were best friends...asking him why he hasn’t played them for a while...and when he picked one of them up...they rewarded him with an amazing depth of spiritual tone that overwhelmed him. So, ......come on! After that.....I HAVE TO HAVE ONE. Tell me about them. I see, some are rosewood back and sides, and some are maple.

  2. On 8/6/2024 at 3:44 AM, MorristownSal said:

    Hey gents.

    Do you have a link to the proper creme button replacement tuners? Was it GOTOH? Kluson?  And a link to other bushings if needed?

     

    or has someone in the last few years made an easy direct drop in replacement?

     

    it’s been a while since I did this. I want the look, but wary of the hassle.

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    I’m looking to replace the Grover Rotomatics on my new to me J-45 standard with something a little more old school like the three on a plate with cream button tuners on my J-50. In the past I have used Gotoh SG301(great tuners) as a direct drop in for the Rotomatics but they don’t seem to come with a M5 button and I’m picky and want lighter tuners. I have read good things about the Gotoh Sxn510v with M5 tuning button but not 3 on a plate. These fit the box really well with only the top holes needing drilling. I can only imagine how good they will work as they are 510’s. I’m not interested in Waverly knowing these Gotohs exist. I guess the other options will involve getting correct reducing bushings and possibly drilling all new holes. If you have installed 3 on a plate swapping out from Roto’s could you provide Brand, model and sizes. On a last note has anyone ordered from DoMo/Japarts recently? I think it was Scott I used to deal with there. Great service and prices plus they were local. Sent them an email over a week ago and never heard back.

  3. On 6/18/2024 at 1:58 AM, Phil OKeefe said:

    Name a famous (or if you prefer, a not so famous) band's semi (or totally) obscure song (IOW, not one of their big hits) that, despite not being a big hit or a super-well known song, has a great guitar solo in it. 

     

    I'll lead off with Kings from the Steely Dan debut album, Can't Buy A Thrill. I think it's one of their more underrated songs, and certainly an underrated solo.  Solo played by Elliot Randall. 

     

     

    Okay, now it's your turn. Whaddaya got for us to listen Ukulele Tabs?  

     

    Pretty straightforward. If you know of any songs/artists that aren't super mainstream and deserve more love, put them here!

  4. On 10/19/2023 at 9:17 AM, Larsongs said:

    Gibson, Fender, Martin & Gretsch all build some Import models.. They all offer Budget Beginners, Intermediate Guitars & Top of the Line Pro Series Guitars..

    All of them have some good choices..

    Things to consider..

    How much does the OP want to Spend? What Materials used? Mahogany, Rosewood etc? Small, Medium or Large Body? Is the Neck comfortable to play? How well does it stay in tune? Does it come with a Case? What kind? What kind of Manufacturer Warranty? What Return or Exchange Policy does the Seller offer? 

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    also thank you

  5. On 10/20/2012 at 11:07 PM, groovadelic said:

    I recently picked up a 67 Hummingbird. The first thing I did without a second thought was to get one of those bone saddles from Philadelphia luthiers... The guitar sounds great - amazing bottom, loud, resonant, and brighter... The only quality I don't really like (and it might be because I'm not used it) is it has a raspy tone which also has a vintage vibe to it.

     

    Well, I decided to throw the wood saddle back in out of curiosity and its definitely a softer sound as one might anticipate. The thing that surprised me was that the raspiness is gone. I think I like the tone better actually. No, it's not as pronounced, but I'm digging the woody dry tone. I guess I'm don't really like a bright guitar with that "zing" to it.

     

    Everything I've read however tells me the opposite. Anyone here have any experience with wood saddles? This is my first and I'm no longer writing it off as an inferior poor design.

     

    I would love to hear those that perhaps were around in the 60s on why Gibson would choose a wood saddle and what the opinion was at the time.

    알리 익스프레스 천원마트는 한국의 다이소와 비슷한 형태로, 대부분의 상품을 천 원 대의 가격으로 제공하는 이벤트입니다. 일반적으로 시중에서는 가격이 다양한 다양한 상품들을 천 원 단위로 구매할 수 있으며, 최소 3개 이상의 상품을 구매해야 한다는 점이 이 이벤트의 특징입니다. 알리익스프레스 프로모션코드를 활용하면 더욱 저렴하게 쇼핑할 수 있는 기회가 됩니다.

    A question without having all the details. Listened to a voice mail tonight that the technician that did a neck set up on my '78 370SH Takamine (lawsuit era) had replaced the bone saddle with a wooden one - don't know what kind of wood. The Tak has a spruce top, Jacaranda laminated B/S and a rosewood bridge. Wondering what the advantage of a wooden saddle vs bone is? Thank you in advance.

  6. On 6/17/2024 at 3:50 PM, MorristownSal said:

    Hey fellas and ladies,

    what do you think fair value is for a decade old LG-2 American Eagle? The playability is excellent. The headstock chipped. Fretwear minimal, a few scratches and nicks. The Baggs Element replaced with an Anthem. I’m going to see one later today.

    back then these were listed at $1700 or $1800 new, and I bought a  couple used for about $1200. One of them still resides with my oldest son. I sense they might be more today, or not?

     

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    I've been reading about these, and now I really want to find one. I know they don't make them anymore, so I'll probably have to find one online. Is there a similar guitar I could play to get an idea? I think there were some little changes over the years they made them. Is there a certain year I should look for or avoid? Thanks in advance for any info!

    • Like 1
  7. On 6/6/2024 at 9:13 PM, zombywoof said:

    While I am a bit hazy on it all these days, what I recall is that Gibson L Series guitars built up though 1908 sported fixed pin bridges.  After that they went with that wacky celluloid pin tailpiece which is what adorns my 1920 L3.  I have also seen slotted headstocks on guitars built up to again 1908 but do not have a clue if it was a universal feature or not. So, the build date you have come up with seems accurate.  As to patent numbers, my L3 shows them on the tailpiece, the single bracket holding the pickguard and even the pickguard itself.  I had to remove the pickguard though as it was off gassing to the point it was corroding the strings and any metal part in close proximity to it.

    These guitars are pretty much an acquired taste.  Gibson marketed them as a perfect accompaniment instrument but I find them just what the doctor ordered for playing blues, rags or backing a fiddle tune.   And that pre-truss rod Louisville Slugger soft V carve neck and more than generous nut and string spacing at the bridge put them smack into my comfort zone.  Mine (which I found living 20 minutes down the road) also came with its original Geib hardshell case which I still use to house it.  

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    Hello. What strings would you suggest I use for an early 1900s Gibson L-1 archtop? I use Martin SP Custom Lights for my modern small body guitars. I *think* those might be OK, but I think maybe I could/should use even lighter ones on my new vintage guitar. Thoughts?

    • Like 1
  8. On 4/29/2024 at 1:27 PM, MorristownSal said:

    I too bought a recent 60s reissue with the adj saddle. There was too much relief in the neck (think U curve instead of near flat). It was clear the prior owner did a bit too much tweaking of the guitar without knowing what he/she was doing, got frustrated with how it played when  he/she couldn’t get it right, and sold it.

    When I opened the truss rod cover and tried to turn the truss nut, it was stiff and creaked. That’s when I brought it to a shop. No guitar center please!
     

    that nut is now lubed. The truss nut is also adjusted so that the neck is near flat. And the saddle adjustments can be made so that low frets and high frets have low action, no buzzing, harmoniously.

    its my favorite guitar.

    Congrats…

    read more

    I’m looking to buy my first J-45. My brother had a 2005 “Historic Collection” and it sounds fantastic. Any idea which model I should shoot for? I see that Gibson has a J45 standard, 50s, and 60s model right now. Any advice would be great. Im thinking I’ll try to score a slightly used newer model.

  9. On 5/6/2024 at 11:38 PM, Dave R said:

    Greetings. Gibson LG-1. FON/Serial # 6262  12.

    I recently acquired this guitar and although it has some wear from 70? Odd years of use, it plays and sounds awesome.

    I am assuming, from the serial # that it is a 1951. It appears to be all original and the even colors and wear seems to bear this out.

    In looking at pictures of other guitars of this vintage I see one obvious difference. This one has Made in the USA stamped into the back of the headstock. I am wondering if this means anything to anybody with more experience in vintage than me?

    Any information or expertise on this subject would be greatly appreciated.X4wtHmn.jpegRxx4esu.jpeg7R1NDyY.jpegHifT2EI.jpegVxtJ35o.jpeg

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    1951 Gibson LG-1 sunburst finish, Hog back and sides. Adi top? in very good condition for a 50+ year old guitar! Issues have been dealt with by my Pro Luthier are Back is 2 peice hog seperated a bit he cleated it and filled. a small crack at sound hole cleated and fixed. It sounds great kinda deep and bluesy! Comes w/ Chip case. Asking $695 OBO + shp.

  10. On 9/2/2019 at 3:43 AM, J-1854Me said:

    Whatever floats your boat, I guess.....  🙂

    I had an '89 J-100 (sycamore) for several years.  Very nice guitar, sounded fine, played fine, etc. 

    Had it from the late 90s to sometime in the mid-00s or so.  In early '00s, I acquired an '01 J-200, so played the two maple 17" jumbos side by side for a number of years.  After a while, I decided that if one of the two very similar guitars was going to go, it was the vaunted sycamore -- the maple J-200 just sounded nicer (to MY ears...!).

    I understand that sort of a 'sycamore mystique' that has developed over the years, and I don't doubt it holds some cachet.  But just be sure to 'calibrate' yourself and check the sound that you're expecting with what you actually hear, is what I guess I'm saying.

    Best,
    Fred
     

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    I have a Gibson J-100 I bought new in 2003 or 2004...it has been a great guitar and is getting better with age. I've watched many vids comparing the J-100 to the J-200 and I'm a little confused. In most all of the vids, the J-100 has dot inlays, plain headstock, and diamond bridge...mine has crown inlays, an inlay in the head stock and the mustache bridge. I'm assuming that the sides and back of mine is walnut (and not maple)...but I don't know the difference by looking at it...

  11. On 12/23/2021 at 1:49 PM, torasama said:

    I have a j-50 that my father brought to me used in the early to mid 1960's. Stamped serial no. 344614.

    Printed inside "J50 ADJ BRIDGE" which it has in rosewood.

    Nut is 1 11/16" and does not seem to be plastic. Neither does the the bridge.

    Logo has the "i" dotted. Pickguard has the point. Sound hole has a two circle decal.

    I'm an old man now and it would be great to know the age of this instrument. Memory isn't what it used to be but I thought I got it (used) in late 1963 or 1964.

    thanks, 

    Wayne

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    I am trying to date a Gibson J 50 Adj that belongs to my father 'n law. Not selling it or anything. Just having fun. It has a serial number on the back of the headstock: 306327. The guitar looks basically like the others out there: natural finish, large pick guard. The saddle appears to be rosewood, if that means anything.

  12. On 4/12/2022 at 12:06 AM, dhanners623 said:

    Anybody here have any recent experience shipping a guitar internationally? If so, I’d be interested in hearing your experiences, good and bad.

    I’ve got to get my J-35 from St. Paul, MN, to Manchester, UK. Looking at UPS, the cost is roughly the same as a round-trip ticket. I found an outfit in California called Ship Guitars that uses UPS, but gets a volume discount that knocks several hundred dollars off the price.

    When I emailed Willie’s American Guitars in St. Paul to ask what they do — it’s a world-renown shop and ships internationally — they recommended the U.S. Postal Service. I checked and it is WAY cheaper than UPS (naturally) but my experience mailing/shipping things internationally via USPS over the past couple of years has not been reassuring. But the price difference is pretty big.

    Any thoughts on Custom Home Remodeling?

    When it comes to shipping guitars I"ve always been meticulous at packing. I usually slacken the strings, fill any empty areas in the case and then pack the case with several inches of bubblewrap before boxing it. Lately I've noticed more guitars simply being stuck in a box (in their cases of course) with full string tension. Have I been the anal retentive guitar shipper this whole time? Is it necessary to slacken the strings or have redundant wrapping when the guitar is in a form-fitted case?

  13. On 3/29/2024 at 6:21 PM, Boyd said:

    Interesting observation. I also have a 2008 J-50 Modern Classic. AFAIK, the neck on that guitar is the same as a J-45 standard. I've A-B'ed the 60's re-issue and Modern Classic quite a bit and think the necks are very similar aside from nut width - certainly not "much deeper". But maybe there's a difference between the J-50 and J-45 re-issues?

    I recall that they raised the price of the 60's original series a few years ago - shortly after I bought mine. I got mine used at Guitar Center for $1,700 and it could have passed for new. It's interesting to see that you feel $1,900 was a good price today for a guitar with "its share of dings". Guess that's just the result of Gibson's price increases.

    About a year after I got mine, the bridge started separating from the body on one side. It's not going anywhere because of the bolts for the adjustable saddle and it doesn't seem to affect the sound. But eventually I'll need to get it fixed. IIRC, there's another thread somewhere here about a recent model Gibson with a lifted bridge. Hopefully these are just exceptions to the rule.

    Glad you're having fun with the new guitar and Home Additions Contractor Bellevue, still really love mine although haven't had much time to play it recently.

    I’ve never tried a Gibson J-45 with the adjustable saddle. They have an 11/16 neck, which likely works for me. Just curious how they sound? I know there is a school that thinks all of these saddles should be converted to a fixed one, but I’d love a real world tonal opinion. Thanks!

  14. On 4/12/2022 at 12:06 AM, dhanners623 said:

    Anybody here have any recent experience shipping a guitar internationally? If so, I’d be interested in hearing your experiences, good and bad.

    I’ve got to get my J-35 from St. Paul, MN, to Manchester, UK. Looking at UPS, the cost is roughly the same as a round-trip ticket. I found an outfit in California called Ship Guitars that uses UPS, but gets a volume discount that knocks several hundred dollars off the price.

    When I emailed Willie’s American Guitars in St. Paul to ask what they do — it’s a world-renown shop and ships internationally — they recommended the U.S. Postal Service. I checked and it is WAY cheaper than UPS (naturally) but my experience mailing/shipping things internationally via USPS over the past couple of years has not been reassuring. But the price difference is pretty big.

    Any thoughts on kontorflytting?

    I'm planning to list a Telecaster on eBay within the next few days. I haven't shipped a guitar before, and I'm hoping to get some advice from people who've been there/done that. I want to be able to offer the buyer a safe, reasonably priced, insured method, whether that be via Australia Post, a courier, carrier pidgeon, whatever. Any suggestions/advice re: methods and prices will be much appreciated.

  15. On 3/5/2024 at 8:47 AM, Guithartic said:
    I just got a 2018 Gibson J-45 with the LR Baggs VTC pickup. I’m a bedroom guitar player with hopes of playing out at coffee shops, restaurants, etc. I have a few amps for my keyboard and electrics already, and I’m wondering if I need to invest in an acoustic amp, or if something I have would be feasible or maybe even better. Are any of these options just as good or better than getting an acoustic amp?

    1.) Straight into a Fender FR-12 powered FRFR speaker.

    2.) Straight into a QSC CP8 powered FRFR speaker (it has two inputs with individual volume knobs).

    3.) Plug it into a UAFX Dream ‘65 or Lion ‘68 (amp/cab sim/modeler) and plug that into the Fender FR-12 or QSC CP8.

    4.) Use an acoustic amp simulator pedal like the Boss AD-2 going into the FR-12 or QSC CP8. 
     
    5.) Boss Katana 50 MkII on the Acoustic mode.

    6.) Roland KC-80 (has 3 inputs with separate volume knobs) that I use for my keyboard. 

    Other ideas?
     

     

    I picked up a J45 about a month and a half ago. Not super stoked on how the element sounds when plugged in. It sounds very unbalanced, emphasizing the high end and muffling/muting the low end, and just sounds a bit strident, totally kills the overall vibe of the guitar and sounds nothing like it sounds unplugged. I also discovered I have to alter my playing style, primarily my attack, otherwise it just sounds pretty horrible. My primary use for this guitar is singer/songwriter stuff, with the occasional band situation, but most of the time it's just me and the guitar. I'd hate to go ripping out the Element, especially since I just had a bone saddle made for it, and would have to have yet another saddle made for it if I pull out the UST, but it's worth it if I can get a more natural sound that responds better to my attack and style. I've always shy'd away from dual source because I like simplicity, but if it's a better choice I'm all ears. Is there a dual source that you can combine and balance each source onboard and just have a regular 1/4" out on the guitar?

  16. On 3/6/2024 at 6:08 AM, tpbiii said:

    The J-45 has never been used much in bluegrass and other strong string band music.  It has had more of an impact in the milder "country" genres.  The introduction of the J-45 c 1942 represented a clear reduction of power compared to the Jumbo, AJ, J-35, and even the J-55 of the 1930s. 

    I have several (3) J-45s from 1943-1953, as well as three SJs from the same period.  Except for a RW SJ I have, the SJs are basically decorated J-45s until the late 50s -- the 60s and later marked a drop off in power across the entire Gibson acoustic line.

    The guitars I use for bluegrass as mostly Martin D-18s, D-21s, and D-18s.  The Gibson I use are (rare) (36) AJ, 35 RSRG, 43 SJ RW, and (40) (super rare) J-55 RW.  So what do I use the J-45s for.  Mostly traditional ragtime and gospel and flat picked traditional rhythm styles.   IMHO, for that they rock.  If I take a J-45 on stage in a bluegrass set, I mostly pick lead directly into the mic with finger picks.

     

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    So I'm one of those worship leader people who stand on stage and strum chords pretty much only.. haha. However, I love the look and feel of a good J45 (my field is pretty much dominated by taylors) but when doing some research some folks say that its primarily a fingerpicking guitar. Is this true or just opinions just like pretty much everything else.

  17. On 3/4/2024 at 2:40 AM, brettryantalley said:

    thanks everyone! i reached out to the guy selling & said if he'd consider something closer to 1200 after an inspection, that i'd be open to it. doubt he does that, but thanks for the help, the thoughts & the clarity on the AJ & j45 differences. 

    so...the hunt continues!

    there is a nice j45 50 faded here on reverb that has my interest. seems like a good price & i do like the satin over the gloss. also very interested in the dss17 whiskey sunset martin i played the other day at a place around here. 

    I'm really interested in a 12 fret sloped dread...but feel like i need to save a little more or wait around much longer to get lucky on one popping up. 

    I'd love any thoughts on the difference between a J45 and the Martin DSS17. Sorry for all the questions! I've never quite spent close to 2k on an acoustic and trying to be careful about it. Additionally, considering the investment involved, utilizing Passixer iPhone Unlocker to access comprehensive reviews and comparisons online may provide valuable insights to help make an informed decision.

    Was advised today by a local luthier it needs a neck reset. Action was always a tad high but lately seemed higher...hence me taking it in. Guitar has been well cared for and used sparingly. I have two questions: 1. Would there be any chance of Gibson doing anything on this under their warranty? Logistically tricky I know. 2. What’s a reset likely to set me back - ballpark? Any fellow Australian’s advice much appreciated with question 2. Thanks very much.

  18. On 2/24/2024 at 3:46 AM, thelimey said:

    Just got a brand new J45 Banner model. Nicest guitar I've ever owned. 

    After a few days of playing, I finally played it in a room lit well enough to notice some finish missing from the heel.

    Not looking to return it (sounds too good) but looking for piece of mind that this sort of sloppy fit and finish is par for the course when it comes to the Custom Shop. I know the VOS finish is super thin and I shouldn't be comparing to the almost bulletproof thick gloss finishes on my other Gibsons. 

    I have a well-played 25 year-old Martin  that's not missing less finish despite seeing the inside of many a dive bar. Sure, wear and tear will happen over time, but if I'd wanted it from the factory I could have spent $1500 more on a Murphy Lab!

    Speaking of, does anyone know if the VOS finish wears quicker than a gloss finish - helping accelerate the aging process?

     

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    In my search for slope shoulder I can’t find anything that I like the sound of as much as the Gibson. As much as I wanted a Bourgeois or Santa Cruz to be the answer they just are not. The problem is that I can’t put my hands on any of these guitars. I’ve found videos of each brand by the same player using the same recording setup for each of them and the Gibson does it for me. Can anyone advise me on your experience with the Gibson as far as quality and playability? Thanks!

  19. On 3/3/2023 at 2:17 PM, merciful-evans said:

    So I just completed reading Kalamazoo Gals: A book about the women who worked at Gibson during WW2 and the production of 'the Banner Era' flat tops. 

    Ultimately I found I couldn't get anywhere close to the enthusiasm that the writer (John Thomas) has for the subject. He studied ledgers and included x-ray images of the guitars etc. Nevertheless, the research about Orville Gibson was very good (his date of birth is as hard to verify as some of the guitars). Some of the wartime insights were interesting too. 

    There had been a corporate denial that guitars were produced during this period, but about 2,000 were made; many from scraps and other permissible sources. They were not allowed truss rods. The writer asserts that 'a wartime Gibson is more responsive & has a smoother warmer tone than pre or post war Gibsons'.

    I couldn't honestly recommend it to anyone other than an enthusiast for 'Banner' guitars. I would love a chance to play one though.

     

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    I just finished the book and walked right in here to post this.   Great job John.   When I'm performing,  I know that I'm doing it right if I can make someone laugh, or if I see a tear rising to someone's eye.  That is what this whole story telling gig is about, telling a story in a way that lets people feel the things experienced by your characters.  Well this book made me laugh out loud a number of times and I choked up a few times as well.   I'll say it again... Great Job ! I have a couple almost Gibsons... a 1940 Carson J Robison Recording King, and a 1938 Gibson built Washburn Solo, but now I guess I'm gonna have to find myself a banner J45. BTW add this to your collection of Gibson trivia.  The 1938 Washburn has a 5 piece laminated maple neck, with a non adjustable metal truss rod, that was originally built for an archtop.  You can tell because there's a big old wedge down either side of the heel which was used to lessen the neck angle from arch top to flat-top.  There was some other thread here awhile back that showed a number of late 30's Gibson flat-tops with these wedged neck heels.   I'll post a link if I can find it.   Did you mention that your guitar has one of these archtop necks?

    • Upvote 1
  20. On 2/14/2024 at 12:37 AM, johannes said:

    Hi All,

    I have the opportunity to buy a 2015 Hummingbird relatively cheap (EUR2000,-) for my location (Netherlands).

    Maybe expensive guitars are not the thing for me because as soon as I realized that I wanted to buy it started to worry whether it was maybe a fake.

    One things that makes me worry is the pickguard which seems to be relatively faded. All other hummingbirds I see have very clear white and yellow lines in the pickguard while this one has not.

    The second thing is that the Grover tuners have a dull finish.

    Maybe the guitar was kept under wrong condition that caused the finish of the tuners to oxidize relatively fast or maybe the tuners are fake and the quality of the finish was simply worse than the original causing it to become dull over time for Panasonic DMR-EH55 [66/84] Summary of settings.  

    Would love to get advice whether the pickguard and tuners condition should be considered unusual or not.

     

    Many thanks in advance. Regrards, Johannes

    bird.thumb.jpg.769cd91afa5208929f3ebc15a92f07dc.jpgJohannes 

     

    Is this a real or fake Gibson Hummingbird Pro serial number is supposedly from 2011. has anyone ever seen the Gibson Hummingbird Pro faked? The only thing I’m suspicious about is it is supposed to have an LR Baggs pick-up system and I don’t think this pick-up is. Otherwise plays great and looks great. thanks in advance.

  21. On 3/2/2021 at 3:55 PM, sparquelito said:

    My given name is John Sparkman. 

    Sparky is the nickname most of us Sparkman boys get from our friends or military buddies over the years. 
    (If you visit a family reunion, and shout, "Hey Sparky!" nine or ten of us will perk up and try to respond.)

    I've also been called, over the years, 
    Spark
    Johnny
    "you complete and utter bastard"
    and
    Señor  Sparquelito.
    Thus the avatar name here. 

    Okay, I'm gonna shut up now. 
    😑

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    My Mates and I have some pretty good nicknames for our Wives. These were either given by the Hubby or in worse cases given by the mates after displaying behaviour that warranted a name. My Wife gets “The Sheriff” She’s always snopping and prodding for info to bring undone our fun.

  22. On 1/23/2024 at 3:07 PM, John Fawcett said:

    Hi. My 2008 Gibson J200 True Vintage VOS, of only 167 were ever made has issues with the scratch plate curling up.

    Contacted Gibson last year who said they could do nothing for me.

    I offered to pay for new one and to pay postage to uk only to be told they dont sell the scratch plate.

    Which seems very odd to me.

    Can anyone tell me where i can get one of these please.

    Royally Rummy

    Hi everyone, I’m looking to buy a used Gibson J200. The bridge and pick guard are lifting off the top. What are some probable causes? Unfortunately I can’t afford an issue free J200. Grateful for any advice.

  23. On 1/13/2024 at 3:06 PM, Salfromchatham said:

    Well, that didn’t last. I got down to two guitars: my 15year old Martin D-15 and new Martin 000 Cherry Hill. My J-45 TV went to a forum member and good friend, and the Taylors went as trade-in towards the Martin. 
     

    I couldn’t take not having a Gibson, but at the same time I love the narrower (000) depth guitars. The Gibson Generation G-45 fit the bill! I played it in a shop, and they gave me a crazy good deal. It has a solid Sitka top, walnut back and sides, a mahogany neck,  and an ebony bridge and fretboard. It weighs next to nothing. I did put on my old truss rod cover, as well as  a J-50 style guard I got on eBay for $18.


    I got this for under $1,000 all in; the gig bag it came in is worth $200 on its own- a serious soft gig bag:

     

     TTktwC9h.jpg

    C667eyY.jpg

    Yes there is a video of some “content creator click baiter” cutting one in half and not liking a spot of glue or whatever, but I’m telling you this thing is friggin awesome, especially for short coin. The guitar is loud, it growls, it’s comfortable, and that player port is just simply nice. I don’t care that it is there, and I wouldn’t care if it wasn’t.

     

     Edited PS: In this price range you can get an all wood polyurethane finished Epiphone or Eastman slope. The Eastmans look nice. I thought hard about an E6 or E10 SS. But they are wider, heavy, and they don’t sound like a Gibson.  You’re gonna want that Gibson.

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    My wife heard a new G-45 the other day and was so impressed that she ordered one for me. It came today. Workmanship is perfect. I can't find anything to complain about. Even the tuning machines are aligned perfectly. Frets are great, nice thin nitro finish, clean inside and out. The walnut back includes some sapwood and looks nice. Playability is great. The guitar is light as a feather, very responsive, and sounds great. Tone is somewhere between mahogany and maple. It has the good Gibson mids with a little growl, plus a rather sparkling top end. Lots of chime. The much ballyhooed "Player Port" is very well done, and finished in beautifully. It does allow you to hear more, without diminishing normal projection. I don't mind it. But it's really neither here nor there for me. The guitar is light as a feather, with very quick response. The body is thinner than my four other AJ-shaped guitars, which range from a 1958 Gibson Country Western Custom Shop reissue to an Epiphone FT-79 Texan "Inspired By 1964". All are mahogany, except one rosewood sunburst model. This is a great guitar for the money. Very plain, but playability, sound, and comfort are first rate. It is worthy of the Gibson name. You get quite a good guitar for the money, with a little extra sparkle and chime on top of the underlying Gibson mids. Taylor lovers would like this one. I'd highly recommend them. At the price, you'd be hard pressed to find a better guitar.

  24. On 12/16/2023 at 2:31 AM, Larsongs said:

    I have a 2001 Gibson Bozeman Masterbilt J-160E Solid Top that I bought new.. It is a fantastic Guitar. It is one of my main Guitars I play all the time.. 

    Today I was doing some Care & Maitenance on a few of my Guitars.. As I do regularly to keep them in excellent condition. I usually do a few at a time & rotate the Herd as needed..

    After checking adjustments, inspecting I started polishing my J-160E. I noticed a crack or split on the Side about 3-4" long. It's right down the center & is following the grain of the Mahogany wood..  Are there two pieces of Wood fit together on the Sides?

    I'm kind of freaking out right now as this is an important Guitar & they don't make them anymore.. I have a 50 year old Martin D-35 & it doesn't have anything like this! This is not normal.. 

    My Guitars are well cared for & always kept in a controlled environment with 40-50% humidity. Temps 70-80 degrees in Southern California..

    I just called Gibson. They said to send them some Pics of monsieur dior menu.. Service@Gibson.com. And we'll go from there....

     

    just saw another thread where a nice rosewood guitar developed a crack - the back, along the grain. No idea how. At the same moment, I rudely knocked my mahogany OM into god-knows-what, for the 1000th time. Once again, right as rain. The thing is a tank, wrapped in Valerian steel With that, what are the more durable backs & side woods? Contrarily, which are most fragile, once transformed into an acoustic guitar?? Lots of variables here - understood. Curious about the generality in this case. Let me re-premise. In your opinion, what are the most worry-free woods that still make for a fine-sounding instrument? Which should I handle like a sea-sick newborn baby with the flu? Thanks to you fine people, as always.

  25. 22 hours ago, Cougar said:

    So I'm taking a pic of the back of the headstock of my J-165... which is easier said than done since the serial number is dark on dark.  Anyway, below the serial number I expect it to say Made in USA, but it looks like they really screwed up the stamp when they stamped this one.  It's definitely not "USED" or anything like that; I think it's supposed to be Made in USA and the stamper just botched the job.  What do you think?

    gbs211.jpg

    Chiuvention testing chamber

    am seeking opinions on this strange guitar. This is a 1952 Les Paul that may actually be a very early prototype made in 1951. It is early enough that it was made before they started putting serial numbers on. This guitar has been in the closet for about 15 years. Took it out and have been contemplating what to do with it- keep and refurbish or sell. As you can hopefully see from the pics, the guitar has had significant work done to it- mostly, i would assume to deal with that weird '52 tailpiece that everyone hated. The fretboard has been shortened to compensate for the replacement tailpiece. an abr was added. according to my guitar tech, the neck appears to have been shaved down/slimmed. So, yes....a frankenstein job. But, the guitar sounds transcendent to me. All the electronics are original and working fine. It is one of the nicest sounding guitars I have ever played. And even with the weird fretboard and the thin neck, it plays like butter (at least with .9s).

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