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ksdaddy

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Everything posted by ksdaddy

  1. C’mon guys....everyone on the planet is antsy right now. Let’s not stir the sh— stew any more than it’s already stirred.
  2. My mother passed away in March and one of the things I've been unsuccessfully trying to sell is this oak china cabinet. maybe I should market it as a humidifying chamber so I can sell it.
  3. Many 70s acoustics had "custom" or "deluxe" on the label. No idea why. Seriously, not a clue. It wasn't like they were distinct models. Sometimes I think they put those additions to the names so they could vary from what was shown as a catalog model....i.e variances in the sunburst or tuners. But I could be full of hot air.
  4. It’s not a Gibson, sorry.
  5. The early Bozeman ones do have a following. I have one dated June 23, 1989 and it is a very good guitar. The sides and back are made from Sycamore (European Maple) that is very plain. That wood was left over from the Kalamazoo days. I also have a 2000 J-200, clearly "not" early Bozeman, and it is also a fine guitar, albeit with a different personality altogether. As to desirability, there will always be someone who claims the person who screwed the tuners on had a cold that week so those guitars are inferior.
  6. Gibsons are traditionally finished with nitrocellulose lacquer and will change color. Some more than others. The maple furniture you've seen may have been finished with some kind of lacquer as well, or it was more likely finished with oil varnish or polyurethane. All finishes will react differently. If it's 29 years old, that would make it a 1991, which may have been finished with a product called Fullerplast, which Gibson used for a while. Some people feel it was an inferior finish. That may be, but that is in direct conflict with many people's mindsets that Bozeman could do no wrong. 🙄 I'm being a smart alec now. I'll shut up.
  7. nuked him!

    1. jaxson50

      jaxson50

      Thanks KSDaddy,  that was wack!

  8. It’s probably early 70’s
  9. Chances are, the pickups either won't work at all or the output will be unacceptably low.
  10. I’ll bet the parts will be fine. The brass saddle likely have clear lacquer on them and some has worn or chipped off. You could give them a bath in lacquer thinner and a good rub with steel wool and re-spray them. Or just let them age uniformly. As to the screws, just work at them with wd40. You’ll be fine. The tuners are probably Gotoh or Ping, if you need to replace them. My guess is once you get your hands dirty you’ll get the good feeling associated with preserving the original hardware. Now that’s assuming it didn’t suck in the first place! Only you can decide that.
  11. I can barely change a light bulb but the first thing I would look at is if the 9 volts is getting to the preamp. Easy enough with a voltmeter. Second, the jack has a switch built into it that kills power once the cord is unplugged. If that connection is dirty or oxidized, there will be nothing. Just shoot some contact cleaner into the jack and poke the plug in and out repeatedly. Personally I use WD-40 to clean contacts but I know the electronics guys will burn me in effigy for saying it. It doesn't work and it's just plain bad....that's why I've used it for almost 40 years lol.
  12. It’s definitely not a fake. It’s typical Epiphone from the second half of the 80s. I wouldn’t put a lot of thought into the serial number. The serialization of import stuff can be hit or miss.
  13. The end of the fingerboard doesn’t look right. Need more pics.
  14. If I had locked this topic a long time ago, you guys would have complained that you were just having a discussion and I was being too heavy handed.
  15. Maybe Grover should come back to the US then.
  16. I've owned a few Gibson from the mid to late 70s with twisted necks. It's something I watch for now. As to any "fix", I've not heard of anything that works. I've heard tall tales. I don't believe any of them. I would not buy any guitar with a twisted neck, period. Having said that, I have a 1998 Seagull that looks like it went through the war and it has a twisted neck. It is obvious. However it still plays fine. I have another S6 neck waiting in the wings if it ever "fails". If you like the guitar, you might overlook the flaw, as long as it plays okay. If not, bail. Even if you lose money. Bail and take the loss, otherwise it will eat your brain.
  17. Yes, there is a good chance it will hold. But again, it’s not something anyone can predict.
  18. Exactly, No guarantees. Any good repairperson can glue that bridge back together and how long it lasts is not something human beings can predict. It could last forever or a week. He knows that. He also knows that a new bridge is not cracked. Looking at it from his point of view, if he glues that bridge and it doesn't hold, word could get out (quite unfairly) that he is a poor repairperson. In addition, you will be bringing it back to him and likely expecting him to repair or replace it for nothing. This is why he wants to replace the bridge. Let him do it.
  19. You might want to post some photos on a hosting site and put the links here. When it comes to Gibsons from the mid 60s to the mid 70s, the serial number can be confusing. However, SGs can be easier to date sometimes based on physical features. And if you suspect it has the original pots, the code stamped on them can help narrow it down.
  20. You might save yourself the frustration of finding the oversized screws if you just fill and re-drill the holes.
  21. The serial number tells part of the story, as do physical features. One helpful thing is the date codes on the volume and tone pots. Open the cavity and look for stamped numbers beginning with 137 or 304 (typically). The next two digits are the year and the final two digits are the week of that year. That will tell you when that component was made, and know the guitar could have been built a few days, weeks, or months afterwards. In some strange cases, directly attributable to someone ordering too many pots, the same date code can cover several years....
  22. I would immediately suspect high nut slots. If the nut is too high, you can easily push the strings out of tune at the first position.
  23. That serial number could be 1962,63 or 64.
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