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About mojogood

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  1. No way to play it first. Is it worth $950 shipped (slight buckle rash), or would I be better to pay about $1200 for a new one that I can try out? Here's the top.
  2. Would y'all consider this J-15 back desirable, or would you prefer straighter grain with less runout?
  3. I've used Colosi for custom stuff, Warther for Ivory. Also, I once bought 50 saddle blanks from a Chinese supplier on eBay and was very satisfied.
  4. The action is about 7/64 big E and 5/64 little e. Certainly playable but I actually prefer a little lower for finger style. As stated, the saddle can't be lowered at the big E. The neck relief is good.
  5. Ok, since the bridge is supposed to be thicker on the bass side, this new guitar definitely has a neck angle issue. No wonder it's marked down to $1029. duluthdan, the saddle is much higher on the treble side, just too low on the bass E. Are the J-15 bridges built the same as the J-35s?
  6. I was test driving a new J-35 at GC and noticed that the bridge was much thicker on the bass side. The GC luthier said that it's the way they're supposed to be built. Well maybe so, but the bridge thickness caused the saddle to stand proud of the top of the bridge only about 1/16" at the big E position. The break angle at the E was sharp enough to play well, but there would be zero saddle height to adjust the action as one would expect to do, on down the road. Can anyone confirm that J-35 saddles are made this way? If so, should the bridge saddle be that low on a new guitar? Thanks,
  7. BK, I have one and I highly recommend it. I bought the non-blend model, tried it, then returned it and got the blend which is much better. The mic on that little boom allows you to find the sweet spot, under the bridge. Best pup I've ever owned and real easy to stick on any guitar temporarily. In fact, I've never installed the jack since I don't have a need to play through an amp. I doubt if it's had 2 hours of PT, so it's like new in the box. Any idea of the going price of these. I might consider selling it. Jess
  8. I just got this pic of the label and it's called a "Vintage AJ." Does this designation mean anything, as far as value?
  9. 62burst, the HD-28VS certainly does have a huge bass but it's good for clearing up chest congestion. 😁 Good info so far and this AJ is looking like its about 3-$400 too high. Per the headstock inlay, here's a pic. Can you tell if there's anything funny going on?
  10. This is a very nice 99 AJ and it's priced at $2300. I see where later models have sold for $1500 & $1800 on eBay, so is there any advantage to buying this older model at a higher price? I've heard that the AJs from the early 90s are held in high regard but I don't know if a 1999 model is a desirable year. The nut width is supposed to be 1 11/16" and I thought these were 1 23/32, but that's not a deal breaker. Any advice or input on this year model and price would be much appreciated. Thanks
  11. What would the nut width be on a 2011 J-45 natural finish. Was this an ok year as far as tone? Would it sound about the same as a current model J-45? Thanks
  12. As a huge Gibson fan, I regretfully had to return a recent SJ purchase that I bought at a big box store online. It had 2 structural issues, one of which was ok with me, but another issue that should have kept it from passing QC. I hate to pile on, but this thread seemed like the right place to mention this. I didn't get a replacement guitar because the only other one in stock had a lot of top grain runout, which I didn't like. Others might like runout and I don't think the replacement guitar would have had issues, but I just decided to get a refund. I know this experience can happen with
  13. BK, another fine recording with a great little blues box. IMO, you have nailed the sweet spot between under playing and over playing. I always enjoy your sound files.
  14. No, at least not at this time. I prefer a wider string spacing at the bridge and a wider nut width.
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