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Whitmore Willy

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Whitmore Willy last won the day on January 4 2011

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About Whitmore Willy

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  1. Irish_Rover, I guess you are a "Rover". (considering the name and then the location.} Congrats, big time!!! Of my modest collection, my 339 is my favorite. Hope the setup takes the guitar to where you want it. Let us know!!! Best of luck, Willy
  2. Yes, Epi cases are covered with "hide of the noga" (plastic). How hard are you on your cases? My bigger concern is NECK and BODY support. I've had good luck with the fit on most Epi cases. I have exchanged a couple that I ordered online. (didn't like the fit) Wasn't a problem. Good luck, Willy
  3. (My First Comment!!!) Did someone resurrect this 3 1/2 yr.old thread just to criticize? Let's see your expert work..... And yes, I use the reamer on an average of a guitar or two every week. Willy
  4. Yup....Although I do find a Dremel to be useful when used in conjunction with the reamer. http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/76854-beater-guitar-part-2/ Give it a minute to load. (it's an old thread) Willy
  5. Oops, forgot about the Ultra's. I was thinking Epiphone Standards, Studios, and Customs. Thanks for the correction. Willy
  6. Don't know which Gibsons (some are weight relieved)....but.... No Epi L.P. is weight relived. Willy
  7. If you have a multimeter, you could check all metal parts (inside and out) for continuity. You can use the nut on the input/output jack as a base ground point. If you do not have a meter you can use a piece of wire. Cut a piece about 1' long. Attach it to the guitar jack between the nut and the washer. PLUG IN TO YOUR AMP and turn it on. Touch the other end of the wire to all metal parts, one at a time (inside and out). If the buzzing stops then you have found the ground break. The two most common points are a bad molex connection (if you have the stock "plug in" wiring) Often the culprit is the wire going to the bridge stud. The wire is simply fed into the hole before the bushing is pressed in. One last thought. You haven't changed your saddles to Graphtech (non conductive) saddles? On my Gibson the strings are grounded at the tailpiece, but, my Epi L.P. is grounded to the bridge. Not sure on the G400. It may not find the problem, but it's a place to start. Good luck. Willy
  8. AND....Add even more value to your Epi with the "Best Pickup On The Planet": The DUPLICATOR 9000! Willy
  9. Rd4m, Congrats. I'm sure it will be worth the wait. Got to love the Blues!!! Never seen a guitar that doesn't look good in it. My '05 Paul: Did you decide on the Trapeze Tailpiece or Bigsby? Willy
  10. Every mark on the case is one that is not on your guitar. Of course you could go with a "molded" case.....or.... you could move up to leather instead of Tolex for $200. or.... Flight cases are practically indestructible for another $70 more. Anyway, what you say is true. That's why I'm careful with the several I use. After years of traveling with some of them, I touch them up every so often. Nothing a bit of glue and a magic marker can't solve. Some just call it character. Willy
  11. Maybe I should have been more specific. I have never used the ones from Guitarfetish. Others have stated that they have bought tuners from Guitarfetish and they were either drop in or a minor change of bushings. As to the accuracy of this I have no idea as I tend to use Grovers. Pick out a couple of models from them that you might be interested in. Contact Guitarfetish and ask them what size holes and bushings are needed. Before hand, remove a string and a tuner (its only two small screws) and measure the existing peg diameter as well as the inside of the bushing hole. This will provide some insight into what you will be looking for. Hope this helps, Willy
  12. Stock holes for the "economy tuners" on Juniors and Specials are 8mm. All the Grover tuners that I have installed use 10mm holes. As to screw holes: If you are going to screw near an old hole, then, fill it in with a toothpick. Put it in the hole and mark it with a pencil. Remove and literally, cut and paste. (Elmers) If the old screw holes are visible, for aesthetics, they can be topped off or filled with crayon shavings. (Rub the colored wax in with your thumb.) As to 8mm tuners. I've never use them but, I understand that Guitarfetish carries tuners and bushings (both standard and conversion) that might work with minimal modification to the holes. http://www.guitarfetish.com/Tuners_c_5.html Anyway, although I did change the hole sizes in order to use Grover tuners see if this interests you. Might provide some insight into tools and such....Just give it a bit to load. (it's an old thread) http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/76854-beater-guitar-part-2/ Willy
  13. Gibson owns the Epiphone company. Gibson calls it a Les Paul. Therefore..... An Epiphone Les Paul is a Les Paul. Beside, if you check most (maybe all) other companies, they call their models LPs....not Les Pauls. Willy
  14. Not everyone but, it is a common enough occurrence. The nuts are inexpensive production plastic. Many have no problem at all. Some take them to a tech. (slot adjustment should be part of a decent setup) Many get replaced with GraphTech Tusq or bone. Personally, I replace all mine. The most common reasons for adjustment are strings that bind in the slot(s).....and/or... slot depth/string height. If all you need is minor slot adjustment then "torch tip cleaners" work well: They are small round files. Available from most welding supply stores for about $5. Willy
  15. Don't forget.... Sanding (or filing) is removing metal. You will get dust. Tape over the pickups. Just a thought, Willy
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