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bobouz

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Everything posted by bobouz

  1. Probabilities would most likely make this a 1966 model. The shorter neck (which joins the body at the 16th fret), the light colored burst (which was commonly seen in '66), and high production numbers for Kalamazoo Epiphones in '66 - would all point this guitar more in that direction rather than later in the decade. Lovely instrument!
  2. Gibson did indeed make some guitars under the Henry L. Mason moniker, but according to Gruhn's guitar guide, there was only one flat-top built, and it resembled a Kalamazoo KG-14 and/or Cromwell G-2. Using those models as a reference point, you will see a clear difference in comparison to your instrument.
  3. Red, I also have a combined Gibson/Epiphone brochure in which the Terada version is called the Elitist PM '64 Texan. Who knows, it might be the same one! Mine came as an eight page centerfold-pullout attachment to a Musician's Friend catalog, and my guess is that it was produced by MF rather than Gibson (it includes prices & product numbers). One full page is devoted to the three McCartney models - the Elitist moniker was probably an effective way for them to separate the Terada version from the Montana models. But as noted, when checking official Epiphone material, the model is never called an Elitist - including the initial release of the model in Epi's "new products catalog 1965." Even more importantly than all of that, I must say what a wonderful collection you have of Terada-made instruments! I only have an '00 Hooker Sheraton (w/ Frequensator), '05 McCartney Texan, and '09 Elitist Casino. If I had been a more savvy buyer at the time, I would have at least picked up the Byrdland!
  4. Epiphone released the "Vintage Outfit" Elitist Casino a few short years ago, along with an Elitist Riviera (stopbar tailpiece) & Elitist Texan, all with nitro finishes. As Red noted above, these were intended primarily for the Japanese market, but some have made it into other countries - such as the used (new-version) Riviera I saw being sold in a local Guitar Center. There are Japanese sellers that list them on Reverb, so they certainly could be sold & shipped worldwide. Unfortunately, these newer models have indeed caused some confusion with their earlier Elitist Casino, Riviera, & Texan counterparts - which were all manufactured with a poly finish (and three-hole TRCs). Previously, the only other nitro finished Terada-Japan models I'm aware of were the two versions of the '65 Lennon Casino and '64 Hooker Sheraton (released as the USA-Series in 2000), and the '64 McCartney Texan (Adopt-A-Minefield fundraiser, released in 2005). It is noteworthy that none of these models were called Elitists (unless being inaccurately represented by a seller). Additionally, these models all had two-hole TRCs. A rather convoluted situation!
  5. Grew up in the LA area, then lived near Phoenix for a few years before escaping north. Been on the north Oregon coast since 1984. My comfort zone now peaks at 75 degrees & overcast. Keep those stinkin' sunny days down south where they belong!
  6. Yup, the JF-30 is a very nice guitar. Mine is a '94. Congrats & enjoy!
  7. Graduated from high school 50 years ago - thinking about the draft. Wasn't too concerned about what the Beatles were doing!
  8. Once upon a time, I was equally attracted to Martins & Gibsons. But in the last twenty years, what I've sampled re newly constructed instruments has turned me solidly towards Gibson. Tone & playability (in particular fretboard radius & scale) all work in favor of Gibson for me. And interestingly, the other day I popped into UMGF & read a horrific thread in the tech section regarding many recent Martins with binding that has separated at the waist, along with many needing neck resets within the first five or so years of ownership. These are major issues, and I've not heard of any similarly frequent major problems with Gibsons. Martin has always been highly touted for it's build quality - I have two which I certainly do enjoy - but it may be that they're coasting a bit on the company's historical reputation.
  9. This is just another test - to insert a photo from my attachment file.
  10. Indeed, I tried deleting the post to see if it would remove the attachment from storage, and it does not. Regardless, thanks everyone for your input. At least I now know it's not just me!
  11. So having never posted a picture before, I thought I'd try the new photo posting feature. The picture I posted was in the recent thread started by QM re the overall new format for this site. In the thread, it was mentioned how little maximum-storage there is in the new attachment section (accessible via your profile). By going to my profile page, the picture I posted was listed under my attachments, and I thought maybe if I deleted my original posting of the picture, I would also delete the photo from my stored attachments, thereby opening up more available storage for the future. Well, that apparently is not how it works. I deleted the original post with the photo I had attached, but the photo remained in my stored attachments. By right clicking, there does not appear to be any option for deleting a photo stored in your profile's attachments. I'm hoping maybe someone has discovered how to totally delete a photo. If this is not possible, it would only take a short while to use up the attachment section's storage capability, and you would then be unable to benefit any further from the new photo-posting feature. Not being any kind of a computer wizard, I could very easily have missed something!
  12. James - Don't know what guitars you've been playing, but if you've come from a world of lesser expensive Martins with Richlite fingerboards, they will show no pores at all. If you've been playing more expensive Martins, Taylors, or Larrivees with ebony fingerboards, they will have very few pores of any significant depth. And finally, if you've been playing older vintage pieces with Brazilian rosewood fingerboards, they will typically exhibit fewer pores, and their depth will be rather minimal by comparison to the East Indian rosewood board on your new J-45. I, like everyone above, do not see anything unusual in the pictures - Enjoy your new guitar!
  13. The poll doesn't work for me. J-185 & J-50. Martins don't make the cut.
  14. Whether it's a new or vintage piece, I like to stick to reversible mods, unless there's a structural reason to be more invasive.
  15. This would be coming out of the Breedlove facility. They have many years of fine guitar & mandolin experience to lean on. Picked up one of their mandolins from 2010 a few years ago - quality construction at every turn, and a lovely tone. Unfortunately, they are no longer building mandolins in the USA (outsourced to the pacific rim).
  16. Well, if it's from the '70s, then it's not the last Heritage made. Their production continued into the '80s. Regardless, I had one from the early '70s, and a good one can tonally be quite a pleasant surprise!
  17. bobouz

    NGD

    Indeed, walnut can tonally produce some stunningly good results, and look darn good at the same time - enjoy!
  18. Many Guilds from the '70s benefitted from an arched back, but there were plenty of flatbacked models built that also sounded very nice. Although Guilds from this period were generally rather heavily built, imho, two things stand out which made so many of them sound good. First, Guild's build quality remained high throughout the Westerly years. Second, the soundboard was not overbuilt. Tops were thin & responsive, even with the typical rosewood bridgeplate (which Martin also utilized during the '70s). So while the body (often with a massive neck & end block) might make the guitar quite weighty, the top could still resonate with abandon & produce very rich tones. Edit: Re the OP's Dove in question, although I owned a Dove & Heritage Custom from the '70s that I found satisfying, the "try before you buy" comments are spot on. There's way too much variation within this era to not have an iron clad return policy if buying online.
  19. I actually like the heavier weight of Grovers & Schallers. My own theory (based on absolutely no scientific evidence!) is that the added weight dampens neck vibration, thereby enhancing the overall transfer of energy to the saddle. I also appreciate that with Grovers, you can change out buttons for other styles (including numerous Hipshot buttons), as well as tighten the mechanism at the knob - and their gear ratio typically allows for finer tuning. Kluson Revolution tuners offer these advantages in a drop-in package for most Gibsons. Just swapped out a set on my ES-330L, and they're a joy to use compared to the standard Kluson-clone "Gibson Deluxe" tulip tuners.
  20. Spent many a day I my youth with a dreamy vision of Florida, thanks to that song. With apologies to Nick - Now that I've traveled most of the state, not so much, unless you eliminate the heat & humidity, the biting bugs, and the whacko people!
  21. Even if no wood is present directly above the channel at the nut, I've seen examples where the owner secured the TRC by the top screw only, and then put a short screw with a clip on the bottom that did not mount to anything (to complete the visual effect). If the flat base of the TRC rests evenly against the nut, the top screw will be sufficient to hold it in place.
  22. I have many Gibsons, and an '09 Elitist Casino with the same Gibson truss-rod system. It is a very basic & straightforward truss rod. The rod itself does not turn. Backing off the nut (counterclockwise) will reduce tension on the rod, and adds relief. Tightening the nut (clockwise) will increase tension on the rod, which then forces it upward as it rests in a bowed channel (reducing relief & straightening the fretboard). If you have completely backed off the nut and still do not have sufficient relief when the neck is under tension, then there potentially are other issues at play that cannot be resolved through adjusting the truss rod.
  23. Fwiw in the wonderful world of Gibson oddities, many years ago I owned an L-48 that I'd dated to 1948. I've never come across another like it, and it is one I do regret letting go. The arched top was solid pressed mahogany, but the solid mahogany back & sides seemed to have been fully borrowed from a flattop platform. The sides had the fabric reinforcements, and the back was fully braced. I still have two grainy polaroid photos of this guitar, where a portion of the horizontal back braces can be seen through the f-holes.
  24. You might be able to custom order an Epi two-hole TRC from someone who makes aftermarket pickguards & TRCs, such as Terrapin Guitars. Typically for such orders, you need to provide the exact dimensions. Personally, I have not seen anyone from common outlets, such as E-bay or Reverb, selling a two-hole cover on a regular basis.
  25. bobouz

    NGD

    By golly, that's the fist Taylor I've ever found visually appealing. Very tasteful overall. Have fun with that one!
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