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GuitarBuilder

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GuitarBuilder last won the day on July 30 2012

GuitarBuilder had the most liked content!

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    Male
  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Guitar construction, guitar effects design
  1. Hi,

    I'm looking for help for my Gibson DF.

    Do not hesitate to come back to me to exchange.

    Thanks

  2. The asking price is usually a dead give-away: if it's lower than market, it's likely a fake. What is the asking price?
  3. I think LPguitarman found the issue: it's pretty easy to accidentally engage the FX loop on the back. You could recreate the issue intentionally at home.
  4. I'm surprised the cavity spray worked. Shielding the electronic and pickup cavities is very effective against hum pickup, but I've not experienced any static reduction as a result. The static electricity tends to build up on the pickguard and the body because the finish is non-conductive. Dryer sheets have a small amount of hydrophilic grease (aka "fabric softener") that conducts electricity very well. On a Les Paul, the static needs to be dissipated to ground via a metallic connection to the pickguard and/or body finish. Usually the bridge/tailpiece/pots/switch provide a good enough contact, assuming that the ground wiring is properly done. I'll bet your tech improved the ground connection after spraying the cavities - that is likely what reduced the static problem.
  5. Following in Steve Hackett's footsteps, I'm thinking of installing a Fernandes Sustainer on an Alex Lifeson 40th Anniversary Axcess. This involves replacing one of the tone controls with a switch and adding a second switch next to it on the front. Not a reversible mod, so what do you think? Will this devaluate the guitar? I don't know yet if I'd keep it forever, so resale would be a possibility. Thanks!
  6. I can't emphasize capmaster's point enough: Linseed oil is a finish and is permanent. I do not recommend it for that reason, unless you're a guitar builder and you want that finished fret board look. Mineral (lemon) oil is the correct choice to use as a fret board conditioner. Virtually all great conditioners (e.g. Dr. Duck's Axe Wax - no wax in this product) are based on this. It keeps the wood properly moisturized and darkens it as well. Whatever you choose, do not use any product with silicones or wax!
  7. +1 My Historic 1955 Custom has the long tenon.....
  8. Those instructions are great, CharlieP! Thanks for posting!
  9. The "upgrades" refer to changing the hardware on the first generation robots to that of the newer ones. In principle that would improve tuning performance; in practice, it's fairly major surgery as most if not all of the robot hardware and electronics would have to be replaced. Replacing this with the 3rd generation technology would be exciting; here is what that does in addition to what our first generation can do: Chameleon Tone TechnologyTM delivers iconic guitar sounds without digital modeling The pickup switch toggle is also a knob (“Piezo blend”) that, when turned, determines the blend of magnetic and Piezo pickup sounds Companion software includes Gibson Chameleon Editor for creating custom sounds and tunings available at Gibson.com Software is compatible with Mac OS X and Windows XP, Vista, and Windows 7 Robot Interface Pack It's a lot of stuff! On the one hand I would like to preserve my Gibson Original Robot in original condition, because it's more valuable that way. On the other, I would like to try these new features to see what they can do. So it's a very personal decision! An '08 SG Robot would be 1st generation.
  10. I use Presonus Studio One; I find it quite intuitive and it does a great job!
  11. I'd love to, Klaus, but I don't have any tuners that need repair right now to take pictures of. I hope you understand that I don't really want to take apart a perfectly good tuner for this. Let me try to describe it as best I can: The part that comes loose is a small gear; it is pressed onto a very short metal shaft. The end of the shaft that sticks back into the gearbox is flat - that is where I put a tiny drop of Lok-tite. Then I carefully press the gear/shaft back into the gearbox and let it set for 24 hours. Hope that is clear enough! Peter
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