Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

wpkg

Members
  • Content Count

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by wpkg


  1. Hey everyone,

     

    This weekend I finished building my first pedal, a ts clone. I came up with this very cheap but great workbench idea for soldering the pots.

     

    I took a white BOSS pedal box and cut a slit a little longer than the PCB in the bottom of it. then I taped it to the table with painters blue tape. The slit held the PCB in place very well, and then a small A clamp held the POT by the post, and a medium A clamp held the small one up. Having the pots mounted by a clamp on the post made it super easy to rotate the piece to get the wire into the correct lug, and then flip up to solder.

     

    _MG_2836.jpg

     

     

    _MG_2835.jpg

     

    I think this saved me MUCH aggravation and swearing and didnt cost me a dime. A clamps cost a dollar a piece, but I already have a bunch of them. I hope you can use this idea!

     

    Thanks again to M-Theory for all your help with my questions on this and the other two pedals Im working on!

    Paul


  2.  

     

    Had the pedal for about 9 months now....never any problems.Built like a tank.

    I twiddled knobs till I found a reverb sound I like and sounds natural to me and I've kept it set there ever since. Every time the amp is turned on the pedal is on.

    Having a 9v wall wart is a must' date=' though. 5 hours is about the most life you can get out of a battery in it.[/quote']

     

    +1 mine has never given me an ounce of trouble, however I never even bothered to hookup a battery...


  3. With Seymour Duncan Black wire is hot' date=' Green + bare wire is ground

     

    On my Epi the black cable is not coding signal but merely identifies the Bridge PU, the white cable is hot, twisted bare wire is ground.

    Same with neck PU. Red cable identifies the Neck PU. White is hot, bare is ground.[/quote']

     

    seymour duncan diagram worked for me and my GFS 59s


  4. All three would give you more gain and sustain' date=' assuming you're running the amp hot to begin with. It all depends on what "flavor" you want added to your tone, if any. A clean boost will generally only give you boost. A treble boost will boost highs, obviously. An O/D typically bumps mids a bit. A minibooster adds girth and some grit. They're all useful, and it's impossible to call one "better" than the others.

     

     

    The mosfet is a true clean boost, that's not going to color the sound, just provide boost. The minibooster will "color" the sound, by making it "fatter" and adding a bit of grit. You could actually use this as an overdrive, provided you can deal with the volume increase that comes with the grit. There's a variation of this circuit on GGG that has gain, volume, treble, and bass controls, called the "Fat Boostered." Another version has gain, volume, and tone controls, like the original fulltone version. [/quote']

     

    Thanks, im gonna go with the mosfet. I like the way my guitar sounds both pickups on 6, just need that to cut through more, and get more gain. if i use the volume knobs the sound really changes on me, not in a bad way, just different.

     

    though 35 db of boost sounds like a lot!


  5. Do a search for the AMZ Mini Booster' date=' you'll be glad you did, I built one and man it really gives th VJ some serious clean headroom. I would choose to build the buffered version, you can obtain a parts list from the site that you can paste into Mousers order form. Good luck.[/quote']

     

    Mini Booster instead of the mosfet booster from the same site? do you know the differences between the two? I found the schematics for both but not a real description of what the mini does differently than the mosfet booster


  6.  

     

    Okay' date=' it's super easy.

     

    All you have to do is open it up and unsolder diodes 4 and 5. It is super easy and it really clean with the distortion at 0. You can still crank the distortion and get some gain, but not as much as stock.

     

    And with the modded DS-1, you still have effective tone, gain, and level knobs. I'm extremely satisfied with mine. If you get a used one, even better.

     

    I think I got the mod from indy guitarist FX Freaks thing.

     

    If you do it, let me know how you like it. [/quote']

     

    yeah if I snag a used one i will try that!

     

    and to you and m theory, how do you like boost compared to an overdrive pedal? im looking for more gain and sustain.


  7.  

    Meh' date=' too many knobs. Probably DSP. Maybe channelswitching.

     

    I like the JR+ head on the left. Volume, tone, gain and [i']a standby-switch[/i]. Would that indicate a higher wattage?

     

    I meant just the idea of a 112 combo epiphone. I wouldnt mind 2-3 knobs but that is too complicated and DSP? phooey!


  8. Let's not forget the single coil aspect...Curtis Mayfield played a Strat' date=' Steve Cropper played a Tele...and if that ain't R&B guitar, the term means nothing.

    [/quote']

     

    exactly. Im surprised no one said "tele" sooner. it is THE RnB guitar. or so ive been told.


  9. I used instrument cables most of my giggin' days (70's) between my 100-watt Marshall Super Lead and my 2/15 bottom (EVM-200's) - never knew the difference and never hurt anything either - even cranked up for hours at a time in bars and clubs. Heck - we all did back then - Ya'll take that "cable" thing too serious.

     

    you should see the audiophiles who gladly shell out 300 bucks for power cables. :-

×
×
  • Create New...