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antwhi2001

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About antwhi2001

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  1. No way is this a copy. With the technology and work involved, why copy a £450 guitar? It weighs 10 lb. I suspect you have a LP Jnr bought in 2015, but not the new 2015 model.
  2. Looked forward to getting one; it's a huge disappointment and I was stupid to buy online without trying one "in the flesh". They look like brilliant value, but mine is being resold at a loss after 6 weeks and 1 gig: 1. It weighs a ton. I thought it would be light (like my 2 LP Specials). It's the heaviest out of the 12 guitars I currently own. 2. The neck profile and strangely wide fretboard don't feel like any guitar I've played in the last 41 years; 3. The G Force tuning is unreliable and too risky for quick retunes between songs; I won't let it embarrass me again ("oh look, he's got one of those new robot tuners...ha ha, it doesn't work!"); 4. The dingy yellow is unlike any I've seen on other Gibbys, certainly not TV yellow; 5. The rattling bass strings can probably be cured by a set up, but why bother? On the plus side, the case is really good. Were the original Juniors this thick/heavy??
  3. You can't really generalise (but folks do). With some woods, heavier is supposed to give more sustain, but it isn't necessarily so. Old Les Pauls tended to be heavier, and sound good, but it isn't necessarily the wood. If a guitar has been around since the late 1950s it's going to be valuable, probably been expertly set up, and any weaknesses regarding frets, nut, and bridge would have been sorted out. Those all have at least as much to do with it as the wood density does. The old ABR bridge posts were screwed in rather than just pushed in, which would have helped. Glued-in frets (as opposed to just tapped in like most Asian guitars) help too. A lot of modern Les Pauls now have chambered hollow bodies, making them lighter. Made well, they have excellent sustain, but a very slightly brighter tone.
  4. Woah! Back off and screw that plate back on... I swapped the pups on mine by removing the pups and cutting the leads at the pup end, then soldering and taping connections to the new pups. Chop them off about 1.5" from the pup to leave enough lead to play with. That way you don't have to mess with all that spaghetti, some of which is fragile.
  5. I swapped the ceramics out from my 1991 V straight way, and replaced with alnico for more warmth. The ceramics are too harsh for me, unless you only play heavy rock. A 498T is a good compromise; alnico V magnet, but high output (around 14k). You will get a slightly thinner sound than that of a LP; I put that down to the V pups being mounted on the scratchplate, and lack of a maple cap on the body. I compensate by wiring it with master vol and 2 tones, and playing the neck pup with most of the top rolled off, at around 4/10. Works for me on blues rock stuff.
  6. I've rejoined the Epi fold - it was bound to happen. Saw a red standard G400 in perfect condition advertised locally for £80 (with 15 watt Harley Benton combo, strap and lead!). At that price I couldn't resist. I'd had one before, a 2001 Samick version, which I put P94s in. It was excellent build quality, but I found the neck a little wide and I sold it eventually. This new one is a Chinese DW Dae Won. It had no strings on when I bought it, so I didn't get to play it til yesterday. I wasn't expecting it to quite as good as the Samick, but it absolutely is. The strings ring out nicely, very low action without any buzzing or rattling. I can't fault it in any way - it's as good as any Korean Epis I've had, and better than some Chinese EEs. Just shows you can't generalise on quality from different factories. I'm not planning on posting pics - you all know what a cherry red G400 looks like!
  7. They are about the same, but the exact thickness and taper have always varied, even on Gibsons. I know my Samick G400 had a 60s neck but a slightly wider fretboard than my other guitars. The build quality was excellent and the natural, bright resonance of it was the best of any Epi I've played. For me, the Samick Korean models from around 1999-2001 ("S" serial) were great. Even the pickups are ok through a decent amp.
  8. Good point from 'scales; Japanese or USA built Epis are completely different to Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, and similar quality to Gibsons. The price comparison and value for money questions are fair too. I would never pay full retail price for a new Gibson,I don't think they are worth it at UK prices. All the Gibbys I've bought have been secondhand, around half the cost of new. Several cost me less than the brand new Chinese Epi 339 Ultra I bought when they came out. I regretted that purchase... If you shop carefully on e-bay you can get a good secondhand Gibson for similar money to a top-end new Epi. And with a second-hand Gibson, you'll always get a similar price back on it if you decide to re-sell.
  9. No. I've done upgrades to numerous Epis, because I enjoy doing it, and it does improve them. It doesn't improve the re-sale value that much though; you'll be out of pocket if you do sell. I've had 10 Asian Epis, none matched the 6 Gibsons I've owned, even after upgrades. Epis are constructed differently, because they are designed to be built quicker and cheaper. Whatever components you change (tuners, pickups, switch, pots, caps, wiring, bridge, tailpiece) the quality of the woods, fretwire, and fitting of the frets will be not be quite as good. From talking to a couple of luthiers,the fret work can be the biggest difference. Epi frets, like most Asian guitars, are not glued in, and use lower quality wire. Do it if you want, I usually do. Just don't kid yourself that it will match or beat a USA-built Gibson. And don't judge Gibson quality by the badly set up guitars displayed in a lot of retailers. I've owned: Epis: 2 Samick LP Standard, 2 Chinese LP Standard, 1 Chinese LP Custom, 1 Samick G400, 1 Samick Sorrento, 2 Indonesian LP Juniors, 1 Samick Sheraton; Gibsons: 2013 LP Custom Lite, 2004 Studio, 1991 Flying V, 2001 Blueshawk, 2004 LP Special, 1978 LS6 There may well have been a few others I can't remember...
  10. Never judge guitars until they are properly set up. I've owned about 10-12 Gibsons and about 15 Epiphones over the years. I usually buy second-hand, so any set up issues have usually been fixed by the time I get them. Every single Gibson I've played (about 20 when including those owned by friends)has played better than every single Epiphone. Most of the Epis have been perfectly ok, but none have been as good.(All of the Epis have been Korean, Chinese or Indonesian). I've never had to pay a luthier to sort out any neck issues on a Gibson, they have only needed tweaking a bit to get the action how I like it. I've had to get minor fret work done on 3 Epis (including a brand new ES339)to get them playable without a lot of buzz and rattle when the action is low. The best-playing Epi I ever had was a G400 made by Samick in the early 2000s; the neck/frets were close to Gibson standards.
  11. I understand both use alnico 2 magnets and they sound similar to Gibsons 490/498 pairing. I've had a few Korean Epis with these, and I also put a pair in a HH Strat project. In my experience the neck version (57CH)does a good job if adjusted to the right height. I found the bridge version not bright enough for my tastes. The pair sound great in my Strat, with 500k pots and 22 cap.
  12. If this is just fantasy, then fine. Dream on. If you are serious, commissioning it from Gibson is stupid. Unless you're extremely wealthy and don't care about money. Just buy a donor LPC as close to your spec as you can find, and take it to a good luthier. They will customise it to your spec for half the cost, or less.
  13. I've had a few HHH Les Pauls and the picking issue didn't bother me at all. Even when playing a HH layout, I'll often pick/strum directly over a pickup to get the tone I want for a particular part, so having HHH doesn't mean you can only pick inbetween pickups. I think HHH looks brilliant, but the middle pickup doesn't give any significant extra tonal options UNLESS you disable one coil so you are in effect using HSH. That gets you into Quadrophenia-era Pete Townshend territory...
  14. Epiphone custom shop = limited edition. There is no specific manufacturing department like Gibsons.
  15. If the strings are occasionally pinging in the nut, the slots at least need filing, and I wouldn't use that Tech again. It's a delicate job and you can easily file too much off, so it needs care. I usually try pulling a wound D string gently through the slots to open them up a bit. The tuners should work ok as long as the strings have been put on with the right technique. Another occasional problem is poorly-seated post bushings for the bridge, and the string tension gradually pulling the bridge until it tilts forward slightly. That would put tuning and intonation out. That sometimes happens when the guitar is new, but it eventually bottoms out. Finally, it's a bolt on neck and some are better fitted than others. If you strum the open strings, hold the body and move the neck, does the pitch change slightly? If so, it could be just slightly loose and would benefit from re-fitting with some more material in the screw holes so they grip better. At the end of the day it's a nice but very cheap guitar. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it. An LP Special II might still have all those problems apart from the bridge post issue, but would give you lots more tonal variety.
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