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About carverman

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  1. I got 2006. I've done a few little improvements. The tailpiece and standard pickups to the Gibson 57 Classic pickups is what you need to change, (besides the ABR-1) to make it sound better. Better pots maybe, but these won't make it sound any different.
  2. Your Epi Emperor II (with the 3-way in the cutaway) was made by Samick in Korea between 1988 and 1992. These and the Joe Pass came with no label inside and the only reference to a year of production, would be a peel off sticker on the back of the headstock. If there is no sticker, then someone has peeled it away. The Joe Pass version had the 3-way switch moved to the upper bout (similar to a ES-175) the way Joe Pass liked to play them, since he played an ES-175 before he started to promote the Epi EmpII as a Joe Pass model. Attached is a picture of mine.
  3. Just thinking here. A 4 wire hbucker has 4 wires brought out. 2 wires represent each coil. You have a DPDT switch. In one position (normal) the center terminal connects the two coils together and you have a normal humbucker function. In the the split mode...the center terminal connects one side of one coil to ground. But this will leave the other coil just hanging (one side unconnected), unless there is a DPDT switch for each p_up... ..like in the push-pull switch case.
  4. There is a Valve Junior 101 thread that was started in this forum in the Epiphone Amps section a while ago. Poster -------- Topic layboomo ------- Valve JR 101 Mod Thread Transfer Do a search for this thread and it will provide links to all the mods on the VJ. Some have installed a standby switch, others say it is not required, but suggest a B+ power resistor value/wattage change to tame down the B+. There are users more familiar with the VJ, so they may be able to offer some assistance on the best way to go about tackling the symptom. EDIT: Typically the function of a Standby switch is to cut the B+ voltages to the preamp tubes and output tubes to allow the heaters to warm up the cathodes before hitting the plates with B+ OR to prevent amps from making funny noises when it is sitting there idle with the guitar still plugged in. In a typical Peavey Valveking amp..the standby isolates the power rectifier bridge from the filter cap section, and all the tubes get b+ as soon as the standby switch is turned on. In your VJ case, this kind of mod MAY not work, as the power filters will still discharge through the tube(s), and you will still get the thump on turnoff. Your best bet is to find the source of the problem and fix that, otherwise the standby switch is a "bandaid" solution. SOME IDEAS It is possible that you can isolate the filter caps that provide the B+ to the tubes with putting in a standby switch, but the standby switch would need to be installed after the caps and between the primary of the output transformer that has B+ attached to it. It is also possible that you can do a standby switch mod by removing b+ f rom the screen grid to stop o/p tube conduction and then turn off the power switch..but any transient present in the filter cap section may still get into the o/p transformer and be passed onto the speaker.. hard to say. I guess, what I'm trying to tell you is that any mod to make it go away, could be more involved than simply cutting a wire and inserting a large toggle switch in between.
  5. If it's a popping noise only during turn off, it is most likely due to the larger power filters (electrolytic capacitors) discharging through the power tube(s) causing a voltage spike or transient which is heard audibly as a "thump" or "pop". Hard to say why this is occuring though, unless the mods had something to do with it and the original soft turn off is comprimised. Normally, if the amp has a standby switch and you turn it off, the voltage in the power filters will bleed off quickly through the power tubes and the primary of the o/p transformer. Turning the volume down may not help IF it's caused withing the power tube circuit or biasing of the power tubes, as the input volume really affects the gain of the preamp stages. Unplugging the speaker may temporarily alleviate the objectional pop, but it needs to be investigated to find what is really causing it and you won't be able to find a turnoff transient with just a voltmeter. You will need to get the schemos for the mods, interpret them and maybe use an audio oscilloscope to trace the source of the transient.
  6. Around that time, some Epiphones had stickers on them with printed numbers, instead of a decal under the finish, and no factory code like "S" for Samick. The sn on my Samick made Epi Emperor II is an indication of the format they used in the late 80s and very early 90s. Y/MM/xxxx (production number) My samick made Emp II is a 91 made in Oct, ( 110xxxx) , so if you have the sticker on the back of the headstock, I would support your hunch that it is made by Samick.
  7. Normally with archtops, Gibson/Epiphone have a black solid ground wire that comes out a tiny hole under the end of the tp and this connects to either the frame of the output jack or a volume pot case. With the Casino having a fixed t-o-m (instead of the usual movable wooden bridge t-o-m on full bodied archtops), it is possible that the ground wire is connected from one of the bushings (the nearest one to the controls), and run inside to either the output jack frame, or the volume pot case. However, With the Casino, having a metal trapieze style tp, either way will work, but it is easier to add a small ground wire under the tp rather than have to pull out a bridge bushing to get a solid ground wire in there, never mind trying to drill a hole for that wire to get from underneath the bushing over to the control pot. There will be some wood reinforcement (like a bridge plate) for the t-o-m bushings on the Casino since it doesn't have a tone block like the Dot or Sheraton. The string ground wire should have been there, otherwise you will get a buzz/hum that goes away as soon as you touch the bridge or strings with your hand. So, In essence you are acting as a rf ground then. But now you have disturbed the factory wiring and done some modding and if you missed a grounding step, it is possible to get some noise..this is a very common problem with modding..besides cold solder joints on pot cases.
  8. SC pups like the p-90 have a hot and a shield which is connected to the metal case of the p_up inside. That shield wire can be a braided shield inside the plastic wire cover or a bunch of loose small wires.. either way, these need to be soldered WELL to the volume pot case for each respective pickup.
  9. The wiring from the p_ups to the volume pots is incorrect. Go to the Seymour Duncan web site and pull off a humbucker wiring diagram for Two humbuckers./two volumes/two tomes and switch. The P-90 is a SC, but as far as the diagram with only a hot and shield coming from each p_up, it doesn't matter whether it's a p-90 or a humbucker for wiring purposes. All pot cases should be tied to each other with a ground wire which should also go to the big lug on the 3-way and the frame of the OUTPUT jack. The shields of the pickups should be soldered to the volume pot cases.
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