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Greg M

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About Greg M

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  1. Hank, I have an RD Standard, not an Artist so no active electronics. I did put a set of EMG 80/81's in it for a while. They fit in without issue. I put a battery box into the back cover plate. Fantastic guitar for metal at that point. However, I have since taken them out and put in a set of Gibson 490R/T. Much better for blues and classic rock. Great guitar, but very heavy.

  2. Hi Greg, i read you put emg pickups on a 77RD artist, is that simple to fix in the guitar ? Is there room enough, i guess yes but just want to be sure, i love the design of the guitar but want to get rid of this odd electronics . Hpw it is to play ? The neck ? With your emg ? Sounds ok ? Thank you for sharing your experience :)

  3. bluelake07, Don't despare so quickly. There is a chance that you might have gotten a "good" set of P90's as stock equipment on your Epi. I did not. If yours sound like P-90's should sound OR you are happy with them, then don't even think about replacing them. The variability might have worked in your favor. Greg
  4. I can tell you for fact that the Stock P-90's in my 2004 Casino were not even close to the Kent Armstrong P-90's I replaced them with. Based on what I read on this forum there seems to be a lot of variability in the stock Casino P-90's. My Epi originals had a passive resistance of about 14.5K Ohms!!!!! The Kent Armstrong's were about 8K Ohms (as they should be). And....they sounded way different too. FWIW, the markings on the bottom of the original P-90's say Epiphone (engraved in the bottom plate) with a sticker on each that says either neck BHK or Bridge BHK for the respective pickup
  5. Take the tuners off of the bass. Put them in a glass jar and spray them with WD-40. Close the jar and allow to sit over night. The corrosion should come off with a polishing cloth. If the corrosion is stubborn and won't come off like this, then get a can of Brasso and clean and polish them with that. Be sure they are off of the bass before doing either of the above!!! Hope this helps, Greg
  6. The pencil/graphite trick is a good solution. Also, there is some stuff on the market called Big Bends Nut Sauce. The Big Bends stuff come with an applicator. One tube is enough to last for a lifetime. The problem with the nut is usually an improperly cut nut. The nut groove should taper downward from the fretboard end to the tuner end. Also, the tuner end of the slots should fan out a bit to allow the strings to angle toward the tuner. Minor details that make a difference. But, as said above, the graphite works. If you want the problem to go away forever, have a tech fix the nut.
  7. I play my Casino through an Ibanez TS9, Xotic AC Booster, or Marshall Guv'nor GV-2 Plus depending on what the song calls for. Just don't get too close to your amp if you are using very high gain. Greg
  8. Here is a link to the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for WD-40 http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf. Like I said above, it is mostly petroleum distillates (thats what aliphatic and non aliphatic hydrocarbons are). Greg
  9. The only thing I would ever use WD-40 for on a guitar woud be to clean up rusty metal parts after I had removed them from the guitar. WD-40 is not a wood cleaner or polish. I'm sure it is a petroleum distillate (likely a mixture of low-volatility gasoline and kerosene) with some anti-corrosive additives. Very likely to harm lacquer finishes and not likely all that good for fretboard materials. Wipe your strings off when you get done playing and replace them when they lose their sparkle. Lemon oil is good for the fret board once per year and Gibson or Martin guitar polish for the body.
  10. FWIW, Taylor Guitars have done a lot of testing on both nut and saddle materials and they use Tusq for both. Also, if you choose to replace a nut yourself, more than likely the slot depth will not be correct for all 6 strings. To do it right, the nut slot height above the fingerboard/frets needs to follow your guitar's specific diminsions. You might want to take it to a tech that has a set of nut files for final slot depth cutting. Another FWIW. I do most of the tech work on my own guitars (I have several) and if I replace a nut, I usually use bone. Not because it sounds a lot better
  11. I always use copper shielding tape because if the area you need to shield requires more than one piece of tape you can solder them together with a drop of solder. You can't just overlap the tape because the glue is non-conductive. You can solder copper but not aluminum. Hope the helps, Greg
  12. acewarslave, Yes it is. I bought it when I lived in New Orleans in 1983. At the time, I think I hit every music store in the area and played at least 40 Gibson Les Pauls. I chose the Silverburst LP Custom because it played and sounded the best of any I played. I thought the color was OK but not really too excited about it at the time. Little did I know that the color would almost double its value to collectors 25 years later. Doesn't really matter as it is still my No.1 go to guitar for both gigging and studio and I will never sell it. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it's n
  13. OK, here is a link to some of my guitars and a few older amps. As I said in my prior post, the Airline is a 1964 model and was my first guitar. Believe it or not, it sounds pretty good but would never stay in tune well due to the way the neck is bolted on. The pics are pretty self explanatory. One apology though. The definition is not that good. I had my son set up the camera and the originals are JPG instead of BMP. If you have any questions about any of the guitars or amps I can try to get some higher def pics. http://www.downriverdaddyos.com/guitars.htm Greg
  14. 1964 Airline - my first guitar and still have it. It's the red fiberglass one with the white stripe around the body perimeter and the "gumby" headstock. Jack White started playing one and now my kids want it. Some others that don't seem very old, but are: '83 Silverburst Gibson LP Custom (bought new and still have it), Blue top '83 Ovation Adamas (bought new in early 1984 - still have it), Black 1977 Gibson RD Standard ( bought in 1984 used, the whole guitar is solid maple and HEAVY, still have it). I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow. Greg
  15. This past week I installed a new nut (the original was broken) and did a setup on an SG Special for a friends son. I can tell you that the neck had way too much relief and the action was very high from the factory. Bottom line - no real problems with the neck, but the frets were in need of a major leveling. I think the frets got no attention from the factory or the "Inspected and Setup in the USA" part of the deal. My guess is that you can't afford to spend too much time on a $195 plywood guitar. However, you can get it to play very nicely with a little time and effort. (But you shoul
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