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DagerOne

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About DagerOne

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  1. Could this be why I can't find those knobs anywhere? I'm trying to restore a 1965 Epiphone Olympic to look at least close to original and was hoping to find a set of the knobs they used on these Worn 66 Wilshire guitars as they're the same. Anyone have a lead on where I could get a set of four? The ones that look like old radio knobs?
  2. DagerOne

    MCK issue

    Bumping a long-ago thread, but I believe I'm looking at the same issue. Pulled the MCK to tune up, and the silver piece came completely off. I can put it back together, but I apparently can't get it lined up just right because the button portion won't depress and reset now. I'm guessing that this isn't covered under warranty, per bullet #9: "Any factory installed electronics after a period of one (I) year following the original date of purchase." Thoughts on a fix? I'm afraid to take it back to the store from where I purchased it in '09 I belive, but that may be my only option.
  3. Geez...when you put it that way, it doesn't sound as cool. <_<
  4. I think if I had it to do all over again, I'd consider picking up one of the Epi LP Junior Specials that Sam Ash was selling for $99 over the Labor Day holiday and adapt it to this. That's a single humbucker, so it would involve routing and adding a switch, but it would be a heck of a lot easier than a refinish! ;) Of course, that also has a black headstock face, so that would mean not having the white one that so many of you seem to like. Thanks for the comments, guys. Glad I took pictures.
  5. Krylon looks far superior to Duplicolor when it's first sprayed, but the softness is what moved me away from it. When you take the time with Duplicolor, I think the results are really, really good. On a body that isn't multi-layered like this one, I'll usually sand down to bare wood. On this guitar, I block sanded off the color and as much of the "sealer" coat as I could while still feeling safe from burning through. With the number of dings, dents, occasional burn-throughs and filled areas I had left, though, I ended up using Deft Sanding Sealer (available at Lowe's). I sanded that to a uniform 320 grit, then put a couple of coats of Duplicolor's Sandable Primer in white (DAP1689). I very lightly sanded the primer coat, then went to color. I used Duplicolor's "Perfect Match" Polar/Arctic White (10 WA9567) for this project. I get the Duplicolor products at either Advanced Auto or O'Reilly's...Pep Boys and Autozone carry them, too, but they run 20 cents more per can around here. ;) This was done with two cans of color. I will lay one entire can down in a day, then let it dry for three or more days like I described above. I'll then wetsand it up to 800 or 1000 grit to take care of the inevitable overspray, wipe down with naphtha, then lay down about 3/4 of the second can and let that dry for several days again. I'll wetsand again, this time up to 1500 or 2000, reserving that last 1/4 can to fix anything I've missed or screwed up. :-" Eventually, it's wetsanded to 2000 grit and polished with your choice of compounds, scratch removers, etc. On this guitar, only the face of the headstock was cleared in order to bury the waterslide decals. I got the idea from my Epiphone Ultra II, where the face of the headstock has a gloss clearcoat, but the back of the neck and headstock is matte. Duplicolor, particularly the white, polishes up pretty darn well. It doesn't have that "three meters thick" shine appearance if it isn't clear coated, but it still looks really nice. I don't think I'd leave a black guitar uncleared, though. I've used Deft clear, Reranch, Ohio Valley Nitro, etc over Duplicolor with good results. This headstock? I actually used Krylon clear because I had some on hand and I don't plan on "handling" the face of the headstock so its softness isn't as much of an issue. I'm no expert...that's just how I've done it with what I feel have been really good results. :)
  6. I have not found that to be the case with Duplicolor. It dries hard, sands and polishes well, and is relatively resilient. I generally stick to very light coats, but only ten minutes between coats. I'll then wait three days or more before I sand it out, or when a fingernail can't be pressed into an inconspicuous area (like beneath a pickup) and leave a mark. Sorry if I posted in the wrong section. Glad folks found it interesting. :)
  7. And finally, strung up with D'Addario super lights (all I had lying around...probably because I could never find a use for them). The old nut was cracked on the low E side, so it was replaced with a Tusq XL also: I replaced the knobs with reflectors. The guitar was missing one speed knob anyway, so I didn't have much of a choice: brianh's tuners, put to good use: And, it's still an Epi: I think it looks a lot better under about $25 in paint. The guitar itself cost $25, remember. The Tusq XL nut, strap buttons, and the reflectors I had left over from another project, but probably cost $12 total. The GFS pickups were around $80 shipped, and the strings were probably $5. So, all told, I have about $150 in the project...which seems like entirely too much until you remember that the vast majority of that (the pickups, knobs, etc) can be reclaimed if I want to use it elsewhere. Plus, I learned some things and have a guitar that does something a little different with the humbucker-sized P90 clones. It plays well, sounds nice, and if I fall out of love with it, I can put the stock pups back in it and maybe get my original $25 back at least. :)
  8. I'm an amateur when it comes to refinishing guitars, and I thought that a $25 salvage piece would be a good sacrificial lamb for me to try something I'd never done before. I picked up some Feibing's Leather Dye, which StewMac calls "ebony in a bottle" to dye/"ebonize" the fretboard. Though the rosewood looked okay, it didn't appear nearly as pretty in real life as it seems to in these photos. At any rate, I gave it a try. It didn't turn out as dark as I'd have liked, but it wasn't bad, either. I'd decided to use Duplicolor paint for this project. Cheap, readily available in a lot of colors, and a strat I'd refinished in it had turned out well. The color I chose was a GM color for Polar/Arctic white. I couldn't find anyone who had a high-quality version of the "Special" logo, so I went with the only one I could get my hands on. I didn't really want to label it as a Les Paul, but the blank headstock drove me nuts. This is just a mock-up of what eventually were made into waterslide decals: Already having several humbucker-equipped guitars, and none with P90s, I decided to try the GFS Mean 90 pickups in this little guy. I didn't take any pictures of it, but I also rewired the guitar with its existing pots after cleaning them up with Deoxit/Faderlube. Sidenote: The wiring for the pickups travels DIRECTLY beneath the screw hole for the bottom-rear pickup ring screw. Securing this pickup ring resulted in my piercing the wiring for the neck pickup, rendering it non-functional. Much thanks to the GFS guys for cutting me some slack and getting me a replacement for something that was entirely my own fault with the help of a poor design from Epi in the first place. First rate customer service from GFS.
  9. So I decided to strip it, repair what I could on a budget, and refinish it. Not that I put much faith in such numbers, but both humbuckers read out at 14.5k. :blink: Attempts to steam and raise some of the largest dents and gouges were pretty fruitless on this plywood body. In the end, I had to fill and sand some areas:
  10. While trolling the local Craigslist ads, I found this Epiphone Special (not the Special II, but its predecessor) for $25: Obviously, it was in pretty sorry shape, and one could argue about whether it was worth even the $25 I gave for it, but regardless. I obviously couldn't do much testing on it in its condition, but the seller told me the electronics on it were "fine". Once I opened the control cavity, I learned otherwise, but it wasn't a complete travesty. Several "connections" were held together with only electrical tape, and the ground to the bridge wasn't connected to anything. You can see in the headstock photo above that several of the bushings were missing, so my first order of business became finding a replacement for them, as I couldn't realistically string it up to determine if it was salvageable until doing so. Even the existing tuners that were complete were in very rough shape. Looking into replacement tuners, I found the existing holes to be 8mm diameter, and there aren't a lot of options for tuners of that size. Fortunately for me, user "brianh" here had not only the required bushings, but a complete unused set of tuners off of an Epi Jr if I'm not mistaken. He offered them up to me free of charge (Thanks again, brianh) and with them I was able to at least get the guitar strung up and functional. Doing so, I learned a few things: 1) The stock humbuckers were surprisingly hot 2) The electronics were scratchy but serviceable 3) A dent in the neck was in a location that made it intolerable 4) The guitar didn't really do anything for me that my other guitars didn't do
  11. Just to update, I did get a set of stock tuners from brianh. The funny thing is...as bad as you guys think these Special II tuners were? The ones that came off my Special (not II) were FAR, FAR WORSE. Seriously, the tuners I got from brianh feel like Grovers by comparison. LOL. Also, FYI...the Special II tuners aren't the same as those on the Specials, and the holes don't quite line up. The bushings and shafts are the same size, though, and that's all I needed. I may still upgrade, but I don't want to increase the tuning peg hole, so my options are limited. I don't think any of those on GFS's website, for example, would fit without modification. At any rate, I think that means the ones the OP was offering up oh so many months ago are still available.
  12. A bit of a necropost, my apologies. I don't post much, but I just acquired an older Epiphone "Special" model that has one broken tuner (stripped out), and is missing three of the tuner bushings. While I recognize that the stock tuners are poor, my first priority with this guitar is to get it playable for as little $$$ as possible and replacing these parts (as well as fixing some hackjob attempts at soldering by the previous owner) would do that. If someone really does have a slew of these things sitting around gathering dust, I could put them to good use. She'll never be a closet queen, but I hope to restore her to respectability, at least: (That's how she looked when I brought her home. She's cleaner now.)
  13. Epiphone Special model (not a Special II), Les Paul-style. Three-screw "Gibson" truss-rod cover, with "Epiphone" and the serial number engraved into the neck plate. Number is: 099010530 I'm guessing 1999, but from where?
  14. Heh, I know it's nothing special...I was just surprised that I couldn't find any information about it at all. Even as little as what year these were made vs. the newer Epiphone cases. *shrugs* Oh well.
  15. I need some help identifying this case. It's a TKL case that fits the Epiphone G400 that I have, "Made in Canada" per the leather tag on the inside pocket. It has the Epiphone "E" logo on the top. All of my searches bring up the "Premium" case with the full "Epiphone" script on the front. Searching through the TKL site for double-cutaway/SG styled cases doesn't bring up anything less expensive than the premium model again. I'm just trying to find info about this case, model number for example, what it originally might have cost, and if folks have any experience with one like this. It seems to be a fine case, covered in a black "tolex-type" material, has four latches with one bearing a loop to place a lock if desired, etc...but I doubt that it qualifies as a "premium" case. Thanks for any help!
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