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Posts posted by vomer

  1. Update......After watching a few youtube vids I decided to try testing the neck pup wires where they are soldered at the pot. So I placed the probes of the multimeter at what looked like bare wire at the volume pot and lo and behold it gave me a reading of 8.89!! So now what??? Is a hot lead making contact with a ground?? The inside of the cavity looks like the L.A.freeway….and I don't know quite enough yet to figure out what's what!!! Wires everywhere and all colors!! I will check connections again....


    Wildkat, did you desolder the hot wire before you tested the pickup the first time? Because if you didn't you could have been reading the fault somewhere downstream of the pickup. And I'm a bit confused now because you're measuring the hot at the pot and getting a typical resistance reading (sorry to state the obvious, but do you have the meter set to the 20K range?)

    Can I suggest, desolder the hot from the pot, it should be on the outer lug, and measure between the hot wire and the back of the pot. That way, any fault has to be in the pickup. If it reads OK, then we start the detective work. (Or at least re-flowing all your solder joints.)

  2. Thanks so much Vomer!! You've been the steady voice during my adventure with this guitar.....but I'm looking at a replacement on ebay...just seems the easiest solution to pull the old and replace. Thanks for all the suggestions...I learned a lot on the subject!!! The guitar is pretty nice to play and seems a waste to just ignore it totally....


    You're welcome! Yes, definitely easiest to just replace. I can never resist taking things apart though msp_biggrin.gif.

  3. Yes, that combination of a faint audio signal and an open circuit does indicate a break. It's possible it might be the lead wires to coil wires connection, so if you were feeling adventurous you could open up the tape over the coil and have a look at the join. Or even remove a couple of dozen turns of coil and see if you find an obvious fault.

    It's probably not worth getting that pickup re-wired if it's a standard Epi pup. And they do come up on ebay fairly regularly for not much. You might even sell the dead one for a few bucks.


  4. Hi, welcome. Epiphone almost never release numbers unless it's very special editions like the '1962' models. Yours is basically a Custom with a couple of different parts, I wouldn't say it was particularly desirable just because it was a limited edition. Have a look at 'completed listings' on ebay for Customs and see what the usual amount is.

  5. Sorry Vomer there is no way a that the double stacked switching Epiphone push pull volume controls will react the same way as the Gibson style 500k pots, like the Gibson ES-339 uses. I have replaced Epiphone push pull volume controls with the larger sized 500k pots and not have the coil tap function. The Gibson/Epiphone style 500k's have a larger radius sweep, are much smoother and don't drop off so quickly. However, on a 339 it is not a simple thing to replace them and if you can live with the way the stock Epiphone push pull pots work its best to leave them alone.

    None of that explains the situation albatross describes. You're confusing a relatively simple wiring difference with the nuances of pots.


    "50's style" wiring = independent volume controls.

    "modern style" wiring = in the middle position "if EITHER of the volume controls is set to minimum there is no output at all."

  6. Welcome Albatross. Sorry mihcmac but what you said is not correct. It doesn't matter what pots you use or whether there is coil tapping, it is to do with the 'style' of wiring. Usually referred to as 50's style or modern style. There's a Seymour Duncan blog post which explains it here....

    Edit: that's not that well written, but it gives the general idea. You could google for similar and get a clearer picture.


  7. Sorry typo, that should say 99 not 89. But Samick did make some up to 2001. Roshambo if you're in any doubt, google Samick Sheraton bridge. You will also find out the rest of what I said is correct. AldoMcD1, it's not at all difficult to identify these without the serial number, in fact it helps because they were stuck on. And the large e on the guard is quite usual.

  8. Asking the obvious first, is it OK in any switch position?

    It sounds like it's developed a break in the winding. The theory for there still being some signal is that the are behind the break develops capacitance which allows some signal to flow. To test if it is the pickup, you will have to desolder the 'hot' wire (preferably both wires) and check the DC resistance with a multimeter. If you don't have one a cheap one will work fine, they are ten-twenty quid on ebay.




  9. Hi roshambo, I don't know why no-one replied. I don't get here that often, so apologies it's taken this long! Yours is a Korean, made in the Samick factory between 1986 and 89 or thereabouts. The headstock is typical of that period, and the big giveaway is the bridge. It's 'fatter' than any other tuneamatic, and is only 72mm wide which for years was a pain if you wanted to replace it, but there are some options now. Those Sheratons usually had the serial number on a sticker on the back of the headstock so it's not unusual for them to be lost. And the ah, 'creative' tuner alignment isn't unusual for the Koreans either. Lovely looking guitar, hope you enjoy it.


    PS don't know about the E on the guard, I've never seen one before msp_biggrin.gif. Thing is, they usually fall off anyway.


  10. Had a reply from wdmusic in the UK,


    "Definitely 73mm. This bridge has fitted some other customers Samick Epiphone's but not others so if your one is 72mm then I wouldn't advise buying this unit. We don't have any at 72mm unfortunately."


    And a reply from the ebay seller latexandleather who says they are definitely 72mm.


    Watch this space...

  11. Mihcmac, that's fantastic, thanks very much.


    Edit to add: The listings on wdmusic.com and wdmusic.co.uk are slightly different. On .com there is no post to post measure given, on .co.uk it says 73mm. I've emailed wdmusic.co.uk to ask. (The ebay listing says 72mm.)


    I also saw conversion posts by Kluson for Samick so you can put a US fit bridge on.


    It's great to see these, I googled a lot, earlier today but it looked like everyone stopped talking about Samick bridges around about 2010! So someone at Kluson somehow become aware of the problem. And hopefully has fixed it.


    I'll post again if I get a definitive answer from wd or Kluson.

  12. It's been a long time since I looked for an aftermarket bridge to fit a Samick Sheraton, and it always used to be that there were no direct fit replacements available, as the old chunky odd-looking Samick bridges were also an unusual post-to-post dimension. Does anyone know if there are any replacements available these days? Thanks.

  13. I have a USACG strat build underway. I've bought the body and neck and all the hardware, although I think I'm going to change the pickups. The body and neck are currently with a paint shop as I've never done a finish and didn't want to start with this one. It's kind of a special build for me, my ideal strat, no compromises in the spec or the cost, and possibly a less common custom colour if the paint shop can do it, like a coral pink; I think they are nearly there. I've had the idea for ten years, then my little girl came along and finances took a major downturn. Now things are a bit easier I'm going ahead with it. So I still have the paint job to pay for when that's done. And what is going to be quite a large expense, I've had Fender Custom Shop 54's in my current strat for some years now, and I was happy with them. Then a little while ago I worked on a friend's strat with Amalfitano pickups in it, their 'SP' model, and oh my word. I have to have a set of these for the new build, I've just decided today. I have that strat here on loan and I've spent two hours today playing it alongside my CS54's to decide. No contest!


    And a friend of mine has a couple of contacts in music stores, both of whom sent him a Boss Katana 50W combo at a discounted price, so I'm having one of those off him. I want it mainly for the headphone out and aux in functions so I can spend more time practising after the little girl has gone to bed. I've heard good reports of them, but I'm not expecting to be converted from tubes!

  14. Thanks for the heads up, but when I search both Epiphone Sorrento and Epiphone 50th Anniversary, it pops right up (second one listed, both ways). So, I'm wondering whether it might not be an international thing. I'll check the settings and see if maybe because I've excluded so many countries from my selling list, it automatically doesn't list in those parts of the world?



    Edit: yes there it is, sorry, ebay must have been looking at my cookies rather than my IP address.


    PS Darn, wish I hadn't read your listing, got GAS now but I can't afford it, I've got other guitar & amp spends coming up.

  15. Still there. http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649


    You can always tell if it's mine by the tweed wall behind.....


    Thanks, I can see it via your link now, but it's not appearing if I put Epiphone Sorrento into the search. I've tried it with a VPN with a USA node and used ebay.com, not just ebay.co.uk. I wonder if your title is confusing ebay's search, having the two words separated out? Have you tried searching Epiphone Sorrento yourself? You could be losing views.

  16. Yes, your vol & tone settings example would be 'independent wiring'. I don't have any diagrams handy to post, but if you google '50's wiring' and 'independent wiring' you will see plenty of pics, and link to people talking about the pros and cons. I'm not aware of Gibson and Epiphone being wired differently. I was under the impression they both came with 50's (or interactive) wiring. Someone more knowledgable than I may be along to say otherwise, though.


    Sorry I can't help with the painted knobs, imho they should be the same.


    Oh and congratulations on your first soldering job. That's actually quite a big step, poking around in the innards of your guitar with a hot stick and replacing bits. A lot of folks just don't ever take that step. And it can be addictive. I spend far more time these days repairing and building than I do playing. Which I have to get the balance back into somehow, but I do enjoy it. And it has enabled me to chase good tone.


    First step in recovery from toneaholism? Mmm nope, the first step is that I have to want to recover. No sign of that yet msp_biggrin.gif.




  17. My Gibson BluesHawk has gold chrome hardware and I'm keeping a very close eye on it.


    Well don't blink! msp_biggrin.gif I've never come across a way to keep gold hardware clean and shiny. It seems to be part of its charm that it will relic. The tailpiece on my Sheraton looks neat, the gold faded rather than flaked. It mostly seems to be older cheaper finishes that flake and look horrible. You may be OK with letting your Blueshawk age gracefully.

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