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About apdale

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  1. Thats what I suspected might be the culprit, tube change is easy - hopefully that solves the problem but I don't have my hopes up. I've solved some routing issues on an 18W that I have so I'm familiar with that. Maybe it'll be obvious once I open it up. Thanks for the help.
  2. I'm real happy with the galaxie 25. It sounds great and I really like the sound of it. One problem I've noticed though (probably should start a new thread for it) when its cranked all the way it sometimes gives out this awful feedback. I can get it to happen fairly easily but my apartment isn't the best place to have it turned up all the way. I'm going to try changing out the first pre-amp tube then a few more to see if the problem goes away.
  3. Its not that the V3 doesn't have enough clean, its more that I want to try something new out. This way i get a bigger speaker - never been real impressed with the sound of any 8" I've ever heard as well as some more wattage if I need it. This wasn't the first VJR I've modded, don't think anything went amok, although they have in the past. Glad to hear someone else is having good luck with the VJR and a POD.
  4. I've got a V3 VJR combo with all of the 'Basic Mods' done to it with some minor tweaking to taste. I've got a buddy that has been wanting a modded VJr and he's got a galaxie 25 that has a new hammond OT and some sort of hum reduction mod done to it. Does this sound like a pretty fair trade money wise? I'm looking for an amp with more cleans to it to run my POD XT Live through and I feel like the galaxie will do a better job of that than the VJr. Opinions on the galaxie in general?
  5. I've got a 2x12 cab with Vintage 30s and I really like the sound I get out of it. Not sure they're the best, haven't tried any other Celestions but they're a lot better than the other speakers I've had in the past. Most amps (especially tube amps) don't run stereo. To run stereo you would most likely need two amps, switch the cab to stereo and plug in one amp to each of the two inputs on the cabinet. The stereo/mono switch essentially isolates the two speakers (in a 2x12) and treats them as separate 1x12 cabinets that you can hook up different amps to.
  6. I would guess the power select is for battery life. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I wouldn't want to buy batteries to power it on 5W mode when I was only needing 0.5W of power.
  7. Sounds awesome! I just got a POD XT Live this past week and its pretty awesome. Pretty similar setup as your POD + footboard I suspect. I've got VJr combo and an 18watt and it sounds great through either.
  8. I'm pretty sure you can plug the 16 ohm internal speaker into the 8 ohm jack and the 8 ohm cab into the 4 ohm plug when running both of them. I've run that on my V3 combo and it worked fine. Make sure and switch the internal speaker back to the 16 ohm plug when you go to unplug the cab.
  9. Thats what I expected but I wanted verification that it was going to sound better if I was going through the trouble of adding an effects loop to my VJr. Thanks Gil.
  10. I've got a POD XT Live that I want to run into my VJr combo. The preferred way to run the POD is into a power amp since it has its own preamp. Does anyone have experience with running a POD or similar unit into the effects loop return? It sounds decent running through the front end of the amp but I suspect it might be a lot better if I install an effects loop in the amp and run it through that. One other question - why does the effects loop typically come before the second half of the 12AX7? for volume control? Is there a different place where I could put the input that would be after that? If someone has had better experience with some other method, let me know.
  11. IT WORKS! So it was a problem with R5, I pulled up the trace to ground when changing out C5 and it was floating. After installing a jumper it works great. Thanks for all the help guys.
  12. I switched the board out with my other VJ and it still didn't work, so its definitely not the OT or the PT or the tube. Looks like I'll start pulling up resistors... Thanks again for all the help.
  13. Nevermind that last one, (with new tube) once I turned up the volume B+ started dropping and a cathode-voltage became apparent. This seemed to happen only after I touched pin2 (twice!) on the EL84 to see if I was getting any input, maybe I imagined it but it seemed to have taken a really long time for things to heat up, then as soon as I tapped pin2 with my probe tah-dah sound started coming out and I started measuring a voltage on pin 3 also the voltage on pins 7 and 9 was dropping like usual and the voltage on pin 3 continued to rise. Because the cathode voltage started rising it looks like the extra current is going that direction, R14 and C5 have been double checked and swapped, any other reason for that current?
  14. I tried the EL84 out of my Valve Special this morning and the B+ voltage was rock solid with absolutely no input, I don't want to fry any more tubes if I can help it. The EL84 I've been using continues to work fine in my working VJ apparently it is the cause of the B+ leakage problem (not sure what thats called) However with the new tube there is no cathode bias at all, pin 3 of the EL84 stayed at 0V for about 5 minutes until I turned it off. The voltage at pins 7 and 9 were high, I assume this is because no current could flow. I double-checked the resistance through R14/C5 and it ohmed out to 235ohms from pin3 to ground.
  15. Haven't had a chance to touch the amp but I'm able to read up at work - looking here -> http://www.geofex.com/ampdbug/intermit.htm "Amp stutters or cuts out when driven really hard: overdrive is causing the output tubes to go into grid blocking after being over driven; this is caused by the signal causing a temporary bias shift." which sounds exactly like what is happening, the only suggestion it says is to remelt every solder joint, this is a generic solution for all problems on the page. I can definitely do that next time I open it up, can anybody explain to me what a temporary bias shift means?
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