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RickJ

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Everything posted by RickJ

  1. OK, here goes..... Tubes from rear of amp Left side of board Right side of board Right side zoomed My tube compliment
  2. Thanks to all who contributed to answering my questions. I re-tubed my rig and pulled the chassis to take some pics to put all of this to bed. Oops..... if someone could tell me how to post pictures within a message, I could then show them :)
  3. Well, thank you so kindly. THAT is exactly what I needed to revalve. I really am not ready to crack the case yet. When I do, it'll be for major modding with a big learning curve. This is wonderful. Thanks again, twanger.
  4. Excellent, there's half of what I'm looking for. But the schematic IS useless for physical layout unless you pull the chassis out to look at the board, which I really don't want to do just for a tube swap. It seems the V designations aren't printed on the outside of the chassis. Now all I need to find out is which end of the trio of 12AX7's holds the PI in V4. Once I have this info, I'll be able to swap in my balanced dual-triode and won't need to pull the chassis. I'm not an electrical engineer I'm a mechanical engineer...oh, and a musician.
  5. Well, yeah, I have one of those. I'm looking for a bit of an explanation. And the physical location of the PI on the chassis, which the schematic is useless for.
  6. Could anyone clear up the exact functions of the valve positions? I know that V3 & V5 work with the reverb. But exactly how and in what capacity? V1 & V2 a and b are preamping the 2 channels and possibly performing a gain make up after the tone stack. But exactly which/what? V4 a & b is the phase inverter, and along with V6 & V7 comprise the power stage. But what exactly happens here when the toggle from 15 to 30 watts is used? And V8 is the rectifier. I also have a perfectly balanced NOS Tung Sol 12AX7 reserved for the PI position but which end of the trio of preamp tubes is it on? Near the output transformer (on right as looking back to front with back off) or on the power cord end (on left same orientation looking forward from rear of amp)? I'm assuming the two 12AX7's toward the front of the chassis are V3 and V5 and the rear trio next to the power tubes are V1, V2, and V4. But I need to know which end V4 is on. Thanks, Rick
  7. Send me your email and I'll send you a PDF of the manual.
  8. After suffering G.A.S. for several months, I finally pulled the trigger on a brand new BC30 to either replace or supplement my Valve Standard. It was ordered from AMS on Thursday afternoon and arrived Friday afternoon correctly boxed upside down (to prevent gravity from loosening the tubes in shipment), finished beautifully with the tolex covering impeccable and the cream painted chassis flawless. I had hemmed and hawed over all the reviews scattered about the internet, both lovingly and scathingly posted. I was mostly concerned about all the mods described to tame the "piercing highs" produced by the units of the past few years, and comments about problem rectifier circuits & standby switches. I shouldn't have been worried. Either my sonic expectations vastly differ from many others, or Epiphone has resolved all of those perceived issues with the latest production run. This beast was born in tone heaven. The five suggested settings (and various combinations thereof) run the gammut from glassy, chimey clean, to grit, to crunch, and even to metal. This, with stock tubes and speakers not even begun to be broken in. And I do mean beast; at 74 lbs. "built like a tank" takes on a whole new meaning. BTW. never put casters on a tube amp that doesn't already have them. To quote Dave Hunter from the Guitar Amp Handbook: "Whenever possible, avoid using castors on a tube amp, and don't add them to a combo that doesn't have them already. Those little wheels might seem like a great way of getting your 80lb Fender Twin Reverb across the 200-foot gym floor to the sock-hop stage, and they probably are; but roll it on out the back door, down the pot-holed alley, and through the gravel parking lot, and you could be taking months off the life expectancy of those expensive 6L6's. ....... a combo inside a professional-grade, padded flightcase with castors on the case shouldn't cause any grief..." Even though I haven't had a chance to open her up yet, and don't know exactly what brand and/or type of glass came stock, I'm planning on trying several alternate tube swaps (more for fun than anything else, the current sound is very, very good). I really wonder what a pair of RI Tung-Sol 5881's or Gold Lion KT-66's will sound like pushed through those Lady Lucks. Delivered alongside my BC30 came a new Fender Standard Telecaster in Lake Placid Blue. This is the ax producing all the great tone I've been experiencing for the last 36 hours. Fender Mexico has really gotten their act together lately and the hot standard Tele pickups are awesome. Still, not quite as chimey as my '51 Nocaster custom shop pups, but they do add a nice touch of grit right where it will do the most good. Enough with the Tele. Maybe a post on the Telecaster Forum later for this. But as for the BC30, I couldn't be happier. I don't think I've ever had $580 better spent. Anyway, I just wanted to share this with you. I've gotten a lot of great information from this forum and wanted to let everyone know that the latest production of BC30's are incomperable. I now must slave away at breaking in the tubes and speakers of my new tone machine. What fun finding new and delightful sounds from just a bit of knob twiddling. BTW: in my rig I use a Line 6 POD X3 Live feeding the front end, set up similar to having a Fender blackface as a preamp into the signal chain with a multitude of stomp effects available at the press of a toe. Although, I do occasionally give in to the temptation and feed her a modeling patch now and then. This amp takes the modeling in stride. I just start with the amp clean and, wow, the sky's the limit. In conclusion, I find the BC30 to be not just a low priced alternative valve amp solution, but a contender in it's own right for any guitarist, pro or not, to have a tone monster at his/her beck and call.
  9. I've tried JJ's, Sovtek's and RI Mullard's, and I never thought I'd see such a night and day improvement just from just a tube swap, until I tried the New Sensor Genelex Gold Lion RI EL84's. Tight bottom, harmonically rich, and punchy. Really "made" my Valve Standard. And under $40 for a matched pair at The Tube Depot.
  10. VOX puts a Celestion Blue in their AC15 as stock, and I'm pretty sure they give you a full 15 watts of chime (including their top boost circuit), so it must hold up pretty well. I'm almost 98% sold on just swapping my stock cone out with the 15 ohm version (Musician's Friend has a pretty liberal return policy if I completely hate it...sure).
  11. Hmm... Thanks for that, Robo. Maybe a C-Gold at 15 ohms would be a better choice.
  12. Okay, I guess the next step is to try a 16 ohm cab and see what it sounds like. You know, things can get really pricey real fast playing with speaker options. I was only able to find two off-the-shelf cabs with blues in them. The Vox 1x12 @ $649 (available everywhere in the universe) and a boutique outfit called Earcandy that offers a respectable looking series of cabs custom built (to the drop down specs) to order with or without cones. BTW, a 1x12 outfitted to match the V-std's black tolex and wheat grill finish with a C-blue at 8 or 16 ohms for under $600. http://www.earcandycabs.com/ I was rather impressed with what I saw there. I'm afraid if I find someyhing that sounds as good as it looks I'll be eating hotdogs for months to pay for it. Well, the bottom line: 1) replace stock speaker with a C-blue and have a killer 1x12 8 ohm combo 2) use a 16 ohm 1 or 2x12 cab for double killer sound (and have a 12" dead weight in the combo) 3) replace stock speaker with a 15 ohm C-blue and have it all OK, option 3 wins (if a sound check at the store pays off) Thanks for the mui helpful info. "We have half a tank of gas, a full pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses" I'm on a mission from God.
  13. Thanks for the reply, Gil, So you're saying, if I buy the Traynor 1x12 cab with a Celestion vintage 30 that I'm thinking about, I should plug it in the 8 ohm jack only after removing the stock speakers' jack from its' plug (which is right next to the extension speaker jack so isn't a hardship other than losing the speakers' output)? This way I match the 8 ohm cab with the 8 ohm tap provided on the OT? Alternately, I can do a bit of rewiring mojo and have them both fed. If the stock speaker were worth it than I would probably go ahead with this mod. Except, I find the original too dark and muddy for my tastes (which is why I'm persuing this train of thought in the first place). Now, thinking about $$$....if I can't use a 1x12 cab as an additional sound reinforcement option without adding it as a dongle to the amp, then I think I will consider an 8 ohm Celestion speaker to replace the original. This will run around $120. If I take into account the $319 I won't be spending on the cab, the playing field widens considerably. For example, a strong possibility might be a Celestion Alnico Blue at $280 8 ohms/15 watts (the Epi Standard is also rated at 15w, close, but do-able, do you think?), or maybe a Celestion Alnico Gold $290/8 ohms/50w. Either speaker, from what I've read, should be able to produce the chimey, shimmering, glassy, harmonically rich, sparkling high tones I'm looking to get out of this amp. I'm also looking forward to having a ball swapping out several different brands of pre-amp and power tubes in search of "that sound". Maybe even subbing a 12AT7 in V1 and/or a 12AU7 in V2. I already have JJ/Tesla new reissue, Mullard new reissue, Ei NOS (1961), Electro Harmonix, Tung-Sol, (both reissues) and more on order. The possibilities are endless. Can you tell, I love this amp? It has so much potential, and all for $162.50 (what I paid for it on EBay, used but with only 2 hours on it).
  14. If/when hooking an 8 ohm cab to the Epi Standard 8 ohm rear panel jack, what are the advantages/disadvantages of having the original speaker connected or not?
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