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About bobv

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  1. Modified the inside of a tv cabinet with two pieces of wood handrail and a scrap of poplar for a top rack, lined it with cork (maybe I'll add suede over it later) and that's all there is to it (besides patching the back to fill up the hole that used to be there for the back of the tv). Nice and handy to grab whatever guitar suits my mood, but they can all be closed up and protected from dust and stampedes Thanks for the idea, neo.
  2. Yes you got your answer on the second post. And the fourth post was somebody talking out his ***. Goodbye fellas. I'll miss you. Well, I'll miss Murph. The rest of you can go screw.
  3. No there really isn't. And do us a favor and actually phrase your question in the title of the thread so people will bother to open it.
  4. don't be scared by the odd perspective of internet complaints. Gibson guitars are really well crafted instruments well deserving of their longstanding reputation, and you and your son should be proud.
  5. If I wanted to I could cram the 339 into my Fender deluxe gigbag (although the zipper is tight so there's not much padding where it closes), so I'm sure there are plenty of bags that it will fit.
  6. On this forum, people are going to tell you to get a Les Paul Studio if you can't afford a Standard. The Studio, cosmetics aside, has all the same construction and wiring inside as a real proper Les Paul - you can't say that about the Epiphones (pretty as they are).
  7. The few that I've tested when swapping guts had 300K linear taper volume and 500K audio taper tone. Gibson apparently didn't check with Wikipedia before wiring their guitars and it's common knowledge they ignored the convention when they decided to use linear taper volume pots.
  8. I think you meant 300K linear taper volume, 500K audio taper tone.
  9. Such a slight difference in gauges will not be a problem, at least it wasn't when I tried the Cleartone coated light top/medium bottom set (but I didn't like the strings and very quickly went back to good ole .010 D'Addario's). Just watch out for ping-ching noises as you tune up; if that happens then try lube or you might have to have a tech open the slots at that point. Also, such a minor difference in the string gauge is not going to require a trussrod or action adjustment. Intonation would probably be affected, though. it's far more likely that a new-ish guitar settling in will have seasonal changes that need a trussrod tweak irrespective of the strings you chose.
  10. The tenon on my ES339 does extend into the neck pickup cavity, so it would be considered a "long neck tenon." However it seems to be much skinnier than you'd see on a Les Paul.
  11. 356 is a fancy 336. The 5 in the middle digit of an ES (335 becomes 355, 336 becomes 356, 339 gets the treatment and becomes a 359) usually means block fretboard inlays, multiple binding on the body, and binding on the headstock, and sometimes even gold hardware. Nobody's pointed out the substantive differences in the small semihollows so I'll take a stab at it. CS336 has a solid mahogany back that's carved out inside the "wing" area and a solid maple top. ES339's have only been made since 2007 and they're constructed the same as an ES335 with maple/poplar/maple laminated arched top and back attached to rims with kerfing like an acoustic, and a maple block running down the center with spruce contour blocks filling in the gaps between the block and the arched top and back. The Johnny A is another small bodied semihollow guitar with yet a different construction; it's got a solid mahogany back that's completely hollow without any solid center area, not to mention the Florentine cutaways. '57 Classic pickups sound great in all these guitars (especially the red ones).
  12. Interesting. I just did 50's wiring with audio taper volume pots on my '09 LP Traditional and with the audio taper pots its really, really abrupt - worse than the 339. The stock linear taper volume pots on it worked much more smoothly in the range I'm used to (6 to 10). I'm going with either RS Superpot or 500K linear for the volume control. If you replace the volume pots on the 339, please measure them and let us know if they seem to be audio or linear and whether they're 300K or 500K. I just checked the pots that I pulled out of a CS336 and they were 300K linear for volume and 500K audio for tone. Same arrangement on an Epiphone Sheraton II and an Epiphone Dot. Yes the 50's wiring on the tone controls does make things a little notchy but audio taper volume pots are even worse.
  13. You can really tweak the slinkiness of the strings by raising or lowering the tailpiece. There's a whole category of threads on "top wrapping" and suffice it to say that players have their preference. The point being that you can adjust the feel and it's almost like changing a half-gauge up or down on your strings. Besides, trapezes look and feel clumsier to me.
  14. Along the lines of Larry's advice, I would see about getting your existing bridge to sit better on that top. If it were a wooden base, the proper installation technique is to put some sandpaper on the top and rub the base so that it takes the shape of the top. Aluminum can also be sanded. Hard to tell from the photo, but it appears as though the base doesn't sit flush to the top. This will affect your tone as well as the stability of the bridge. It does not appear that there were any "notches" in that bridge, so I wouldn't go putting any in if the bridge isn't designed for it. If you're going to replace anything, I'd try a roller bridge on a wooden base. Measure your string spacing high E to low E and see if there's a roller bridge available.
  15. Here's what I've gathered so far. The pot specs on the ES339 haven't been disclosed as far as I've seen. Compare it with current production GibsonUSA model, or maybe a Historic before they went back to vintage wiring, where the rule of thumb is to expect 300K linear taper volume pots and 500K audio taper tone pots. Goes against the rules, but linear taper pots in the volume controls actually work pretty smoothly if you're concerned about going from 6 to 9 or 10 where most of us play with it to clean up the gain. I just replaced my 300K linear tapers with 500K audio tapers on my '09 Traditional (because I wanted to try 500's and I'm happy I did because it marginally brightens up the tone, but all I had on hand were the audios). It turns out in my limited experience that the audio taper volume control, particularly when used with a 50's wiring where the tone cap is connected to the center lug of the volume pot, works very abruptly from 10 to 8-1/2, then gradually down to 5, then nothing at all seems to be apparent until you get to 1-1/2 when it cuts out entirely. It might be what audiophiles and hi-fi designers think that our ears want to see, but it certainly isn't smooth when you're using it as a guitar volume control. It might not bother you, it might depend on the guitar, or the amp settings since it seems to be less of an issue when it's turned up loud. I never noticed a problem in other twin-pickup guitars that I wired with audio taper pots all around. Just the same I'm not happy with audio taper volume controls on my Les Paul. SO my next step is the special taper offered by RS Guitarworks in their Superpots, which as marketed is neither linear, nor is it strictly speaking a regular log taper audio pot. OK so now you compare that to the "Memphis tone" circuit in the ES339. Looking with a dental mirror in the f-hole it's apparent that the circuit adopts the 50's wiring scheme in terms of where the tone cap is connected. The ad copy confirms this, saying that the tone control comes "after the voltage divider" and is meant to stay brighter as you roll back the volume knob. So the question is, what's the taper on the E339 volume controls? Gibson only says that it's a "special" taper, so if anyone has gotten one out of there and put it through its paces on a VOM then please, do tell. It is kind of abrupt at about 8-1/2 so maybe it's an audio taper but that's a guess. If you want it to behave better, and if you can confirm that the volume pot is audio taper, I'd suggest either a linear taper pot like they use in the Les Pauls or an RS Superpot (which I can't vouch for yet, but I am curious to have a set on order intended for both the Les Paul and the ES339). Incidentally you'd need "short shaft" pots not the long-bushing ones. It's up to you to go with 300K (CTS) or 500k (RS Superpot); I'd recommend measuring the originals and staying with it unless you intend to change the sound. Both pickups on my ES339 are plenty bright so I have no reason to wake them up any. Try to get closed-shell pots if you can, the newer CTS with a doughnut back are flimsier. Also look for a retainer ring just below the knurled part of the shaft - it will keep you from blowing out the back of the pot when you put the knobs back on and that's important since you can't really support the back of the pot on a semihollowbody.
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