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Purple_String

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  1. Thanks! I only saw some Japan website and Amazon Japan have the purple. Thought it might be Asian market exclusive. Hope MF really would get it in.
  2. Does anyone know a US retailer selling the Epiphone Nighthawk custom quilt in purple finish? Or does Gibson even sell this finish in the US?
  3. Thanks a lot, 20_Gauge! I see one right to the south of San Jose. Hopefully they can help fix the problem. Otherwise, I'll have to wait for an replacement next year... King Amplification 16905 Roberts Road Los Gatos , California 95032 Phone: 408-402-5823 Email: val@kingamplification.com http://www.kingamplification.com/
  4. Does any one know an Epiphone authorized service center in California Bay Area, preferably near Oakland or San Jose? I just purchased a 50th Anniversary 1961 Casino (#501 out of 1961) from an authorized online dealer. Guitar came in with deep sctraches on both pickup covers. I didn't think it as a big deal since those can be replaced easily. However, when I did string change, I found out the tailpiece was defective as well. The attachment metel piece has four holes for screws. These holes are supposed to have countersinks for screws to sit flat. But the countersinks are actually on the other side of the metal, facing wood. The factory must have stamped countersink correctly but put it in tool for forming up-side-down somehow. I figured getting an exchange from online dealer would take another couple of weeks, so I emailed Gibson Customer Services. They replied promptly and suggest finding an authorized service center. Unfortunately, I can't find service center list on their website... Below is reply from Gibson Customer Service by email. I am sorry to hear there was a problem with your new Epiphone. You might want to contact your dealer about arranging an exchange. As the original owner of an instrument purchased from an authorized dealer, you could take the instrument to an authorized warranty service center with a copy of your receipt to have the instrument evaluated under the warranty. We have a list of authorized warrany service centers on our website. If the authorized warranty service center finds an issue which should be covered by warranty, they can take care of that problem for you in the majority of cases. If they found a warranty issue they could not handle in their shop, they would recommend that you call Customer Service at 1-800-444-2766 to request that an RMA be set-up to authorize you to ship the instrument and a copy of the receipt back to the division of Gibson it came from. Thanks. Best regards, Gibson Customer Service 1-800-4GIBSON
  5. How about this Seymour Duncan pickup? Seymour Duncan SRB-1n The left one. It is supposed to be a replacement for Rickenbacker 4000-series bass neck pickup. I checked the dimension drawing and compared my rough measurement of Viola mini humbucker. They seem to share very similar shape and mounting dimensions. (Seymour Duncan SRB-1n dimensions)
  6. Thanks, Old Ampeg Guy! I will check it out.
  7. Thanks Musikron! You made my day
  8. I checked again relating chapters in Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide" and the "Practical Electronics For Inventors" book I have, I stand on my theory that connecting shielding with ground bus (ie. pot housings) is okay. Plus there's no point ground-lifting within the source (the guitar). So I did comparison test again with other instruments I have. I turned of computer monitor, most of the lights in the room, plugged in alternatively all-stock Squier Classic Vibe Tele and Epi Viola to my VOX AC4TV amp and turned amp volume up - humming (at different levels). And it's not the hum that Tele pickups produce, I can tell the difference. Then I used my finger to touch metal parts on Tele, Viola, cable connector, as well as power switch on amp, and they all stopped the humming. Then I plugged the LP in Vox headphone amp, there was no hum at all (although I'm not convinced that it proves anything). I measured between grounds on each two parts within the guitar circuit including shielding, and it indicates every ground is connected. And it is reasonable, since touching the metal toggle switch on the amp stops the humming also proves the fact that it is a closed circuit. My impression, then, is the amp is not properly grounded. Which is weird because both Belkin and Philips power strips I'm using have "grounded" indicators and they say grounding okay... Conclusively, it is either the input on the amp has grounding issue or the housing does; either way, the guitar itself is fine. But I'm still not 100% certain about my conclusion. My major was not electrical engineering nor knowing how to comprehensively test a circuit So feel free to follow on ideas folks!
  9. Thanks Musikron! Yes, I zero the pots before soldering on them. Well, all the wires and connectors don't bother me that much. (I work with industrial instruments at work, plus I always keep records on paper for tracing each wire I run besides color-code them.) The connectors are all industry standard (Molex and Tyco); we use these on our ten-thousand-dollar dedicated instruments. Although when I measure ground-to-ground resistance between components, ground terminal on switch to ground terminal on jack (when connectors are plugged in) is almost 6 times the resistance of that from pot to pot (connected through short green 22 AWG wires in the picture), (thinking all the wires from shoulder to butt, male and female contact pins). It seems in theory that eliminating connectors would increase conductivity. But I don't consider it a big issue comparing the ease in swapping pickups later on. Like I mentioned before, I'm doing experiments on this particular guitar. But still thanks for pointing out! The reason I don't use shielded wires is that I so far haven't figure out a convenient way working with those shielding braids. I mean, they really entangle together! So I keep using insulated hook-up wires, although I'm thinking using 24 AWG bare braids for ground bus next time. But I did use almost a foot long shielding heat shrink tubing to enclose the longest wiring that runs more than half way across the guitar body.
  10. Thanks animalfarm! The neck pickup I have in there is a two-conductor one and the bridge is four-conductor (5 counting the bare ground wire). So I'm only using push/pull for tapping the bridge pickup. I'm using "individual volume control" setup so that I can easily blend sounds from individual pickups when the switch is at middle position. After all, I'm experimenting stuff here. I didn't keep Epi connectors. I've had experience making cables and connectors for occasional design work at work and I have easy access to cable making tools. So I ordered contact pins and connector housings directly through Newark. (By the way, they sell Orange Drop 715P caps for $0.882 each (P/N: 89F3470) and SwitchCraft jacks for $1.98 (P/N:39F782). They don't carry pots used in these guitars though; otherwise think of all the money that could have been saved...)
  11. Been considering upgrading pickups on my Epi Viola bass, thinking it might make the bass a big step up like Epi electric guitars. But those mini humbucker shape bass pickups seem really hard to find than P/J or MM shape pickups. If I'll have to choose EMG 35HZ passive or DiMarzio DP120 Model One kind, there will need some serious modification in terms of appearance. Does anyone have any suggestions? Under $100 per each is more preferable. Thanks!
  12. Thanks, dchale! Frankly, I never fully understand how "ground loop" really works. But I don't see any bad reason get all pots and switch on a common ground bus. I guess isolating shielding material from pot housing could help. Let me try this next.
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