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Purple_String

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Everything posted by Purple_String

  1. I'm searching all over local stores and internet for a 1.5 Henry choke for my on-going variton switch, but no luck at all. Does anyone have idea where I can find them? Thanks in advance.
  2. Shouldn't bought it or modified it at all at first place if I knew I would be tight...
  3. I need to sell a fully customized Epiphone Les Paul Studio Goth guitar with hardshell Epiphone LP case. Actually I just bought it new this September. But I really need some cash now. Would you guys put on some suggestions on how I could price it? I have thrown a set of Seymour Duncan SH2 Jazz & SH4 JB. As wiring, I changed everything, from pots, caps and switch, to jack and knobs. The best part is that I have it with four Alpha push/pull pots wired for coil-splitting both pickups as well as series/parallel and out-of-phase control. In addition, I changed the nut with Graph Tech TUSQ nut, and the stock ABR style bridge with Nashville style one (stock bridge causes the B string vibrate badly). Another aspect I want to point out is that I have had it completely set up, with tiring fingerboard and fret works. Supper low action w/o buzz. I even did buffing to neck and body finish. There are few unnoticeable scratches on headstock (due to changing strings to Ernie Ball regular) and on pickguard. I guess along with the set of Seymour Duncan humbuckers and the hardshell case alone, I could ask for more than $400. Maybe around $450? Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. I'm considering adding an LR Baggs M1 soundhole pickup on EJ-160E, because I really think this guitar sounds great and should be amplified as an acoustic as well beside the stock neck mag pickup. But I still want the stock pup to work. Seems great if I can wire these two into stereo output. In fact, it will be very easy just adding an endpin jack for M1 and leaving the stock wiring alone. But I think it would be more practically convenient if I can do a wiring that allows two signals output through a single Y cable. I have examed the wiring of eSonic2 on EJ200CE. Frankly, learned not so much. eSonic2 is an active system. It involves a stereo endpin jack and a seperate "9-lug Stereo Jack" (see pic below). This 9-lug Stereo Jack is rather complicated. It's not straight forward for me to figure it out instantly. And it uses two jacks for stereo output. My system is a passive system (passive mag + passive M1). I don't need battery wires or switch function on jack (or would I?). On the other hand, if the outputs wired just like in EJ200CE, I would need a switch to blend two signals at mono output I suppose. This requires drilling](*,) And I rather not blend two signals together. It's not like neck/bridge pickup conbination. They are completely different types of sources. Just stereo output plus seperate mono outputs would be satisfied. Anyway, I figured out a way of wiring this two pups. I draw a diagram below. I will add a stereo endpin jack, which connects M1 at tip and stock pup at ring. In this way, when I plug a stereo Y cable, I get split signals for both, while, when I plug a mono cable, it outputs only M1 signal. Then I wire stock pup individually onto stock output jack, and it gives only mono signal for the stock pup. However, since I have very limited electronic knowledge, I am not so confident about this wiring design. So, could anybody help me? Any suggestion would be appreciated. And, of course, I will redo the pots. Thanks in advance. PS: I could just stereo wire them to a stereo jack at stock position, with stock pup on tip and M1 on ring. In this way, I get stereo output as well as mono output for stock pup. And I don't even need a second jack. Would this work also? Well, I probably end up leaving the stock wiring alone. But the above could be a good discussion topic, isn't it?
  5. I'm curious about the Vari-Tone too! Will be getting a Sheraton very shortly. The vary-tone on Lucille is just cool! But Sheraton looks better to me. If a vary-tone setup can be installed on a Sheraton, that really rock! So far, I too only found Terres kit. Wondering if there are other options. http://www.torresengineering.com/delvarkit.html
  6. I saw all the product pictures and customer reviews at online stores. I was suspicious about it either. But I took a chance and ordered one for my EJ-160E not long ago. It IS NOT what those pictures demostrate! I don't have earlier acoustic cases from Epi, but I do have an Epi LP case bought last spring and another bought weeks ago in comparison. The LP case bought this year, though seems 10 bucks more expensive than that last year, is absolutely an upgrade in design and quality. Anyway, I took some pics just now and pasted them below. Hope they would do the justice for this well-worth case.
  7. I took a quick measurement of my EJ-160E with a tape. It's 43" at longest and 15-3/4" at widest. Roughly, but won't be far away.
  8. It's excatly the same width as other Epiphone Dreadnought guitars, Hummingbird, Dove, etc. But it's got narrower shoulders. I figured maybe that's what they called "advanced jumbo". However, this guitar is significantly longer! Due to a mini pickup installed between soundhole and the end of finger board, the neck is connected to the body at 15th fret, not 14th. As a result, it is one fret longer than normal 25-1/2" scale dreadnought acoustic guitars. But it does fit Epiphone Dreadnought acoustic guitar case very well. (By the way, this year's Epiphone cases are outstanding!) I put on Exlier lights on mine, nothing special. But Exlier strings do last long and play smooth.
  9. I saw a stop bar tailpiece replace part online, which is a little different in looks from regular stop bars. What does the additional part do? Or is it just for the luxurious looking? And, by the way, do all Gibson parts fit Epiphone guitars? Thanks!
  10. Thanks, Dugly. I had email contact with Bob Colosi already. I will send him my saddles for duplicates. I had experience fitting saddles. I just am not sure about nut work right now. From your experience, it seems fitting/slotting-nut labor alone costs appx $50 USD. Well, according to another topic, the nut effect is the least of the three common mods. I will leave nuts alone for a while.
  11. Well, I don't have that sensitive ears but I keep them still on. No offense. I think the pickguard on a guitar is an essential part of its appearance. I just can't take it away. Without pickguard, some guitar may lose their trade marks, such as Hummingbird, Dove, and EJ200.
  12. Thanks, Matt. It's not nonexpensive. But considering the nut work, I will save up a little to do it too.
  13. Thanks Strummy, I did mean "nobody"... Well, your question is hard to answer. Especially I don't particularly care much about politics and not quite understand economy. But it's notable that China has no international guitar brand. I think it's partially due to the fact that guitar is really not an oriental instrument. Japan and (South) Korea were open to America much earlier and they are affected by American music more significantly, while it is not exactly the same case as in China. So I assume quality instrument can be massly manufactured in China but they lack enthusiasm in it. Not to mention guitars appeared almost one century later than western world after long period of war and US-China government issues. People in guitar factories can be top professional guitar labors, but to be good guitar luthiers, I doubt it at least in the very near future. But I can safely say that, from online reviews and conversations with local guitar luthiers, quality of guitars made in China has improved to an exciting level. Above is my personal opinion. However, to your question, I do not know how to begin nor where to start. Epiphone is a good made-in-China example. I enjoy all its quality sound and craftsmanship, and most of all affordable price. I have invested all spare money I have from my graduate research assistantship to several Epiphone acoustic and electric guitars. As soon as I land a job offer, I will go for a Casino or Sheraton. I have Gibson rosewood pins on my Hummingbird and EJ-160E, they sound warm. I will get bone saddles shortly. Other than these, mods on acoustics are out of my budget.
  14. Well, I wouldn't make it a big deal out of this. Not only because I come from China and now study in the US. In China, people keep virtually every part of an animal for sale to keep on values. In contrast, there's significantly less bowels, feet parts, and meet with fat on shelves in US. I figure maybe here food manufacturors grind all those to make sausages, or pet foods. Since the musical instrument industry is much of a tiny market comparing to food industry, less bones are left out there. And I believe nobody would murder his/her puppy to get a tiny piece of bone on saddle or nut. Another thing I should point out is that, maybe cow bones in China are really denser or stronger than those grown in US. I don't know for sure what they feed cows, but the beef in China certainly takes at least twice longer the time to cook than beef I bought here. I figured perhaps it's because most cows in US eat synthetic feeds and stand in one place all day long. Cows in China eat more organically I believe. Also, products manufactured in China are significantly cheaper than in US. Mostly because of labor fee. In US, a luthier gets at least $25 per hour I believe, while they pay labors in China less than that amount a day. However, because of the economy, stuff becomes more expensive dramatically in China, and please be prepared that products made in China are getting higher prices. For example, I bought Epi Les Paul Standard with the amp pack (which I sold for $95) for $499 last year and it is priced at $599 this year. So does Epiphone's other electric guitars. The Epi EJ200CE acoustic I have my eye on now was $399 on Musician's Friend two days ago and it's $449 today... Those are certainly made in Qingdao, China. I don't know if I should feel good about this or the other way around -_-' Arguably, Epiphone's made in China, despite those traced back to early few years when the plant was opened, are better quality than those made in Indonesia and better than some made in Korea. I have a hummingbird made in China. I have compared it to a hummingbird made in Indonesia of a friend's, and his got horrible set up and worse feel of neck. I saw a 1990's (supposably) hummingbird hanging on the wall of a local guitar shop, and the finish is awkward and ugly I would say. Err, I wish I could write my thesis that long at the same period of time. Anyway, thanks for all advices. I totally agree with the saddle -- pin -- nut theory. I have Gibson rosewood pins on all my acoustics, and am going to get bone saddles from Bob Colosi. I'll leave those plastic nuts for a while. I don't have sufficient fund for all these (sign)
  15. Thanks a lot. It seems like it's better that I send my guitars to a local luthier for nut replacement. And I will consider a bone saddle as well now.
  16. I have had an Epi Hummingbird and an EJ-160 for a while. The Hummingbird made in China was shipped with great set up. I only need to sand down the saddle for a very limited amount. The EJ-160, which is also made in China, had much higher action. I sanded somewhat the saddle and still not completely satisfied, but I'm tire of this process. Maybe wait for next string change. Perhaps I need to file a little bit at the nut for the EJ-160 too at top 2 strings. I have seen so many reviews stating that a change of bone nut will add greater tone to the instrument. However, I found that nuts are not that easily found! Nor a nut specificly designe to replace for one instrument. Do you any folks know where can I order bone nuts for my Epis? I don't care if it is on internet. One note though, Ej-160 has a wider nut width than Hummingbird. Thanks for advance! PS: It's strange to me that, since both were described to have a scale of 25.5", according to my measurements, my Hummingbird has only 25". From a glance, you can tell EJ-160 is quite "taller" than Hummingbird. Not to mention the neck on Ej-160 is set to body at 15th fret rather than regularly at 14th.
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