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Gordy01

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Gordy01 last won the day on June 27 2012

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About Gordy01

  • Rank
    Gord
  • Birthday 10/13/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton AB Canada
  • Interests
    Guitars, Scuba Diving, Golf, Woodwork
  1. I live in Alberta, Canada. Our weather is very dry, especially in winter. People who live on the west coast of Canada, get off an airplane here, and say they can feel their lips cracking! I keep my guitars in their case. Regarding my acoustic, I use a Planet Waves humidifier in the case. I have had no ill effects ever. I have seen another guy have trouble with too much humidity. He bought himself a beautiful Martin, and was told to keep the humidity around 40. He bought a hygrometer to keep in the case too. In his effort to keep the humidity up to an "acceptable level", he had 3 Planet Wave humidifiers in the case. All of a sudden, the bridge came off. I guess someone never told him that the glue is water soluble. You need some humidification, but it is my opinion that you must let the guitar acclimate slowly to your local conditions.
  2. I've used a passive DI box into a mixer before. What this accomplishes more than anything, is to convert from a 1/4 inch type plug, to a 3 prong SLR. A 1/4 inch plug, regular guitar cable should not be longer than 20 ft. as this causes signal loss. Once you're plugged into a DI box, you can run an SLR cable for longer lengths without the same signal loss.
  3. Masking the edges is one of the hardest things to do while finishing a guitar. There is almost inevitably run-through. Painting them afterward is likely the easiest way to deal with any run-through, or spillover. I've been trying to finish some guitars with a natural masked binding effect, and it is very difficult. Even using high quality automotive tape doesn't work very well. I don't know how PRS does it.
  4. Have a look at this little circuit. It wires in between the lugs on the volume pot itself. Retains the fullness of tone you want, when the volume is turned down. I'm building guitars and installing this on all of them. Treble Bleed
  5. Gordy01

    help

    The volumes work together on your guitar. When in the center position on the switch, either volume will turn both pickups down. I'm not sure if turning one down and one up, changes that. Someone with a guitar that has that particular wiring scheme will have to chip in here.
  6. Welcome to the Epi forum CJ! Nice LP. Keep coming back. There are a lot of nice people here.
  7. A lot of guitar manufacturers are starting to use 2 way truss rods. They simply make sense. They are easier to install, and you can work the neck in both directions. As you turn the adjustment nut to the left, the neck should be getting an "Down Bow" in it, causing a gain in relief, or high action. As you turn to the right, the neck should lose relief and the action should come down. If the OP needs to gain some string height, turn it to the left. In the building process, sometimes necks will get an up bow in them from the glue. This is probably what has happened to this neck. You may have to take it in and get the frets leveled, but you should be able to adjust the neck to what you need.
  8. That is the way they come wired from the factory. I found it strange also. There is a wiring modification that can be done to "Correct" this "Defect". You have to switch the wires on the volume pots. There are plenty of diagrams available. Search for INDEPENDANT VOLUME CONTROL FOR GIBSON. You have to be comfortable with soldering, and taking your guitar apart. IF YOU ARE NOT, PLEASE TAKE IT TO A PRO. I do repairs, and you'd be unpleasantly surprised at how many guitars come in with wiring mistakes made by someone who thought they could do it themselves. Usually because of heat in the wrong place for too long, there are components that have to be replaced as well.
  9. Great job Red! Nice playing. I wish I could fingerpick like that.
  10. First of all I would like to welcome you to the forum! Stick around, it's a pretty good place to come and talk anything guitar, or otherwise in the Lounge. From the sound of your recording, it sounds like the first fret is low, or the second fret may be high. The sound of the string is definitely being muffled by the next fret. I would send it back and see what the supplier can do, or just take it to a tech. I do setups and repairs, and this type of repair should only take about an hour or two.
  11. It is pretty much assumed throughout the guitar building industry that an electric guitar's sound is produced by the pickups, but enhanced by the materials used in construction, and again enhanced by good tight fitting hardware. Also, a thinner finish will help maintain a piece of woods' natural tonality. This is especially true in semi and full hollow guitars, where the vibration of the top is a big part of tone. If hardness of wood was the issue then spruce, basswood, poplar, or ash would not be used. Conversely, you could use wood like oak, which is not suggested. If the density, or weight was the primary issue, then certain woods like zebrawood, walnut, bloodwood, purpleheart, or many others would not be suitable. The method I use for selecting wood for my guitars is firsty looks. Secondly I use the tap test, whereby I knock on the wood to see if there is a tone, or "note" to the sound made by knocking. Having said that, if there is no tone produced by knocking, I may put a piece of wood back on the shelf in favor of another, not so good looking one. Multi piece guitar bodies still resonate, as long as the glue joints are tight, and construction is solid. Most importantly is the quality of the hardware and nut, and how it fits, the quality of the electronics, and how well the neck joint fits. All of these factors play into the sound of a guitar. To say that any one of these is the cause of bad sound or poor sustain, is over simplifying the whole thing.
  12. There are basically 3 methods of filling a small dent, or hole in a fretboard. I am assuming NO binding. 1. This is the best way, but may not be necessary if the imperfection is very small. Carefully cut a small section of the board out, cut a small piece to fill it in, and glue the new piece in. File and sand the repair until the lines are gone. 2. Make a "Slurry" of epoxy and sawdust and fill in the hole. Always test your mix on a practice board. 3. Do the same with wood glue. Wood glue is not the best for this. Superglue can be used as it dries very hard, but it tends to dry darker than the sawdust was originally, so color matching is a bit difficult. If the hole is in the side of the fretboard and is very small, a small drop of superglue may just fill it in and you won't need sawdust. BUT, it will be slightly darker in color. Oiling the fretboard afterward may come close to matching it up.
  13. I've tried slide a few times and you're right. It is difficult. I think a lot of slide players use D or G tuning but again, I'm not good at it, so I'm hoping someone really good posts. I would be interested in this too.
  14. Yep. I have to echo what Jon S said. I use 10 - 46 on all my guitars. I have used 9-42 before, but didn't like how they felt. I have used 11's in the past and the tone is a bit crisper, but I find 11's a bit too heavy for bending; but that could be just my hand strength. I do a lot of set ups, and most players are using 10's.
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