Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About Swoop

  • Rank
    Rock 'n' Roller
  • Birthday June 30

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I use 10-46 on my Strat. Light enough to bend and vibrato without extreme difficulty, but heavy enough that they sound full and feel good. 9s feel wimpy and awful. I use 11-50 flatwounds on my Esquire for that percussive rock 'n' roll tone. I wouldn't mind trying those on my Strat though, but they're nigh on impossible to bend or vibrato with the same ease as a roundwound 10-46 set. I plan to put together my ultimate parts Strat though, which will be strung with 10-46 roundwounds for that bending and vibrato ability, so maybe I'll give the flatwounds a go on the other Strat when I get the partscaster.
  2. The oval button Kluson brand tuners are a direct replacement for the stock Epiphone tuners on your Casino. I have a set on my Casino, and they're very nice, high quality tuners. Much, much better than the stock ones. http://www.wdmusic.com/3_on_side_kluson_nickel.html You do have to remove the original bushings and fit the ones that come with the tuners though. The shaft on the Klusons is a bit larger, and will not fit through the stock bushing. This can be tricky to do, so if you're not confident in doing it, take it to someone who has the appropriate skills and tools to remove them.
  3. That'll really only work if you can get a shot of the back of the guitar with no perspective, which is highly unlikely. He's very particular about things being accurate and vintage correct. I've sent a message to someone on these forums who owns a Coronet from the appropriate era, so hopefully that will bring a result if and when I hear back from him.
  4. The guitar has been routed for humbuckers and the control cavity has been routed for Les Paul style controls, so no chance of simply tracing it. The hole has been filled with a chunk of mahogany, so he needs a tracing of the original cavity cover in order to rout the new, original sized cavity.
  5. A bloke on one of the local guitar forums is restoring a '67 Epiphone Coronet. He requires a tracing of the rear cavity cover, and I said I would ask here on his behalf. If anyone has a Coronet from this era and can provide a scanned tracing of the rear cover, I'm sure it will be muchly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  6. I'll kick things off. I've taken a few new photos recently. They show off the grain quite nicely I think. Unfortunately though, the reason I took some new photos is so I could list it for sale. It's a beautiful guitar, and plays and sounds very nicely. I've simply sort of outgrown in, and am not really in love with it anymore. It really deserves to be properly used and appreciated. Once it sells, I'll be Epiphone-less for the first time in my entire guitar playing life.
  7. The R is the neck (Rhythm) pickup and the T is the bridge (Treble pickup). Ideally you want the T since it's going in a bridge position, but there aren't really hard and fast rules for which pickup goes where. You could measure it with a multimeter and compare that with some specs online to see whether you have the neck or bridge version.
  8. I wouldn't recommend doing that to the neck a whole lot, but it's nothing to do with your guitar being faulty, just the design of the SG in general. It's mainly to do with the fact that the neck on an SG is set right at the last couple frets, so there's a bit more leverage on it than with a Les Paul or similar guitar that has the neck set at roughly the 16th fret. This is also why SGs can feel like a very long and plank-ish guitar if you're not used to playing one. When I had my G400, the pressure of my hand resting on the headstock turning the tuning machines was enough to change the pitch of the strings, so I'd have to tweak the tuner, then take my hand away so my tuner could register the actual pitch, and I could tune the thing accurately.
  9. Upgrading the electronics certainly improves the tone, at least in my experience. Though in saying that, I changed the wiring configuration in my Casino a bit. I had CTS pots fitted, with linear pots for the tones (the stock ones are audio). I also used PIO capacitors, and a Switchcraft jack and switch. I had it rewired vintage style, with the capacitors connected to the tone and volume pots, and also had my tech wire it for independant volume controls, which is very useful. I kept the stock pickups as I was happy with them, and it definitely sounds a lot better than it did before, and it was already very good.
  10. 500K pots are brighter due to the increased resistance to ground. This is why they're typically used with humbuckers. Humbuckers tend to be fairly dark, so 500K pots are used to make them brighter. 250K pots are typically used with single coils, (think typical Strat, Tele) as these pickups tend to be bright, so 250K pots mellow them a bit. The StewMac website offers some excellent information about how it all works, which should make it clear. http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronics/Pots/w101-controlpots.html
  11. Looked beautiful over on the TDPRI, and looks beautiful here. Seriously gorgeous guitar in amazing condition.
  12. Not sure about the Sheraton, but when I replaced the pots in my Casino, I used short shaft ones with no problem. However, I was unable to use the Switchcraft switch I bought for it, as the threaded shaft on that wasn't long enough, so the nut wouldn't take. This can be remedied, however, with a recessed nut. These are fairly common on Gibson Les Pauls with the thicker carved top, and can be purchased separately from the switch for a couple of dollars. Just thought it was worth mentioning if you're intending to replace the switch as well. This is what I'm referring to. http://www.guitarparts.co.nz/cart/Details.cfm?ProdID=1511&category=
  13. I highly recommend replacing them. When you compare the stock tuners to a Kluson replacement, you can see just how cheap and rubbishy the stock ones are. These Kluson oval button ones are a direct replacement for the stock oval button tuners on a Casino. http://www.wdmusic.com/3_on_side_kluson_nickel.html You can probably find them cheaper somewhere else, this is just an example. You will however need to remove the stock bushings as the Kluson tuners have a slightly larger diameter shaft. You don't need to enlarge the holes in the headstock, just fit the bushings that come with the Klusons. Removing the old bushings can be a bit tricky, and may be best left to someone with the proper tools.
  14. Electronics and tuners are definitely worth upgrading on the standard models. I personally haven't had any issues with the electronics failing in any Epiphone guitar I've owned, but there was definitely a marked improvement in upgrading them in my standard Casino. An obvious improvement in tone. The pickups are fine, in fact I really like the stock Epiphone P90s. And a set of Kluson tuners are also a great improvement and a direct replacement. Another thing worth replacing is the plastic nut, either with bone or Tusq. I went for a bone nut on mine, and it was another very evident improvement. Better sustain, harmonics and, depending on how you play, a real Tele like twang.
  15. The Elitists have a fantastic reputation, and you pretty much can't go wrong with one of them. An Elitist would probably be the most significant upgrade over the one you have, as the 'Inspired By' Casinos are made in China just like the standard. However, if you've already got a Casino, and are enjoying it, why change? If you like the way your standard Casino sounds and feels, then why spend all that money on something you've essentially already got? You could get a new amp instead, or invest in a few upgrades to your current Casino. Just for the sake of discussion though, have a look at this chart that compares all the different variations of Casinos.
  • Create New...