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Everything posted by RaSTuS

  1. I use Tusq nuts on most of my trem geets Doug, work very well and won't break the bank. They come a little high, just rub the underside (bottom) in a figure 8 pattern on a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface to get the action how you like it. For Epis the model is PQ-6060, can usually get the best deals on eBay and such. http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands/tusq/product-detail/pq-6060-00-tusq-nut-slotted-epiphone-style-1-4-?id=6268b557-736e-40d1-8ca7-24c7be50ba3a
  2. Nice score Doug, a real looker, congrats mate and HNGD.
  3. Absolutely excellent flame job on that baby, hope the headplate can be got, congrats and HNGD.
  4. Nice one, hard to beat a natural with good grain to show, enjoy and HNGD. The greco is a pretty funky thing too, looks like fun.
  5. Love the finish on that one crusty, something different, different is good, congrats and HNGD mate.
  6. A very Happy Birthday crusty, looks like you scored a wonderful present into the bargain, enjoy mate, congrats and HNGD.
  7. No probs for me either Dennis, I've at least a dozen Bigsby babies, I do the same as the others and pre-bend the end of the string. I just thought that was a cool mod though.
  8. This was posted just the other day, I haven't tried it yet, but it makes a lot of sense. http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/108671-bigsby-modification/
  9. Got the collection link working again, it was a massive outage at Dropbox, should've seen the flaming going on in their forums over it, LOL.
  10. Yeah Crusty, I thought I had it bad until I ran into someone on MyLP who has 600+, now I don't feel so bad, LOL. BTW: the link in my sig will show you some of them. EDIT: seems my file host DropBox is playing up, I'll try and sort it out ASAP.
  11. Great idea, good little mod.
  12. Have a Great New Year too Willy, hope you get all you wish for mate.

  13. Looking real good Pat, lovely group shot.
  14. Wonderful addition to the family Pat, fits right in, congrats and HNGD mate. BTW: still no news.
  15. Props to both of you Rob, I think it's wonderful it's still alive. If you ever need the links checked, updated or added to just let me know mate.
  16. Very sad, that's for sure. Not here though, just as likely to be unceremoniously dumped like last time. The DIY still lives at Robin's Unofficial Epiphone Wiki, Animalfarm's DIY Links (now with Table of Contents) as does the Serial Number ID thread.
  17. Nice project Bill, and great explanations and pics to describe each step, I'll be following with interest. Got it for a good price too.
  18. The main differences between modern and '50s/vintage wiring schemes is that in the '50s the cap is used to bridge between the volume and tone pots, in modern the cap is bled from the tone pot to ground and a wire is used to bridge the volume and tone pots.
  19. Yes, like looking down the truss-rod hole. You won't really know which way it needs to be turned until you check the relief first, but more than likely you'll need to go CW a touch to counter the extra tension from the thicker strings. I've been working on drafting a short setup guide, these questions come up all the time, here it is, just keep in mind it's only in draft form at this stage, thought the info should be correct. The reason I changed the relief height in your case is because of the thicker strings vibrating more. ========================================================================= To check nut height (slot depth): Fret the low E string between the 2nd and 3rd frets, there should be a gap of 0.15mm and 0.20mm (0.006" and 0.008") between the bottom of the string and the top of the 1st fret, repeat on the high E, you should only need to check the E strings on a pre-cut nut. To check neck relief: Put a capo on the 1st fret, then fret on the fret one past the neck/body join, there should be a gap of between 0.40mm and 0.50mm (0.015" and 0.020"), about the thickness of a business card, between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret at the half way point between these two fretted points, check the low E, you can also check the high E to check for a twisted neck, both E's should be the same. If both the above check out then it's just a matter of adjusting the bridge height just high enough to eliminate the fret buzz when strummed hard. These measurements are my personal preference, but using them you should be able to get a nice low buzz free action. Also I didn't give fret numbers for the neck/body join and the halfway point as this will vary from model to model, and this method should be transferable to any model electric guitar. A few notes: + This assumes all frets are seated and have been leveled properly. * Always have the strings tuned up before doing any of the height/gap measurements or checking for fret buzz. * Thicker strings will require more relief, simply because they vibrate in a greater arc. + Always have the strings slackened before adjusting the truss-rod or raising the bridge height. * When adjusting the truss-rod, looking at your guitar from the headstock end, CCW = more relief, CW = less relief (straighter). * Only adjust the truss-rod a maximum of 1/4 at a time, then wait an hour or more before the next adjustment, this is to allow the neck to settle. * This is the methods I like to use, there are other methods, I find this the best because you are actually using the strings to dial the various heights in.
  20. You'll probably want to adjust it for less relief, the heavy strings will add more relief through the extra tension. Relief is a forward bow, so that the frets dip slightly in the middle, this is where the strings vibrate the most so the frets need to be further away from the strings there. Looking at your guitar from the headstock end, CCW = more relief, CW = less relief (straighter).
  21. The dropped tuning might help a little, an easy way to check neck relief is to put a capo at the 1st fret, then fret it at the fret where the neck meets the body, about halfway between those two points (about the 9th fret on an SG) the bottom of the string should clear the fret by between 0.015" and 0.025" (0.4mm and 0.6mm), about the thickness of a business card.
  22. You can shim a nut using metal or wood, you still want as much a solid contact as possible, it's a lot better to use a new nut though. One of the problems you might encounter going to such thick strings is the strings binding in the nut slots, so they'll mos likely need widening a little. The easiest way to check nut height is to fret the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret, the bottom of the string should clear the 1st fret by about 0.010" (0.25mm). Another problem going to such heavy strings is the truss-rod will almost certainly need adjusting, there will be far more tension placed on the neck.
  23. Only in the middle switch position when both pups are selected.
  24. It's because it's wired with the "modern dependent" scheme, this is standard for most humbucker guitars you'll buy these days, Epiphone or not, you want modern independent to blend them as you've described. It's a very easy mod, you simply swap the pickup's hot lead from lug one of the volume pot to lug two, and the wires going from lug two to the tone pot and 3-way switch to lug one. So basically you just swap around what's on lug one and two. I do it to all my guitars that were wired with a dependent schematic, I prefer the blending control it offers too.
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