brianh

The original Sheratons had a Frequensator tailpiece instead of the current stopbar. I don't ever remember seeing one, but I'll look around and see if I can find a photo. Here's the history: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epiphone_Sheraton OK, found a couple (thanks to Mr. Z.):

Well' date=' they may look similar on the web, but they're worlds apart in your hands. Dots are good guitars for the money, but I sold the one I had, will never sell the Sherry until arthritis makes it impossible to play. Even then, I'll hand it off to my son or daughter if they're interested. Those Korean Sherris are too nice not to keep in the family. [img']http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt163/brianehuff/P1010970groupsmall.jpg[/img]

Plow, the auction sites are a rip, they have to pay eBay and Paypal fees, plus you can't play it and return it, so not a good way to go as you have already surmised. You might try your local Craigslist, I've generally had success there. Also the used rack at your local music store. With your tech background it would be a snap to upgrade the electronics on any guitar, so best advice is to go to the local GC and play everything that fits your needs. Take home the one you like the feel of, give it a few weeks, and then use the SEARCH feature here to find the upgrades that make the most sense. Gibson uses Switchcraft jacks and switch, CTS pots and better wire and caps. Pickups are a matter of taste and pocketbook, here's a link to every mfr. out there: http://www.pickupedia.info/Guitar_pickup_makers All we ask is that you post pics of your selection and the upgrades as you go so's we can learn from your efforts. Good luck! PS: Full hollow are more susceptible to acoustic feedback, so semis can venture into hgh volume territory more easily. If you're not into LOUD, then a full hollow is kinda nice, you can sit on the couch, no amp, and get some good tone out of it.

The IBJL Casino neck is about the same as a Korean standard Casino I played recently - same thickness, width and string spacing. IBJL Casino: Standard Korean:

The Casino is full hollow and has P90s; the others are semi-hollow and have Humbuckers (except the Nick Valensi Riviera which has Gibson P94s, a P90 variant, and the current P93 which is a Riviera with 3 P90s). All four have inexpensive asian-made pots, jacks, switch, wiring and pickups. The IBJL has US-made electronics and wiring and period correct neck/body joint. All four have the same neck width and string spacing. (Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here, all mine do.) All are laminated (plywood) top, sides and back with various top woods, see dealer sites. Dot has a chunky (front to back) neck, Grover tuners, stop tailpiece. Riviera has trapezoid inlays, Kluson-style tuners, frequensator tailpiece. (Or gold hardware and Bigsby on the P93.) Sheraton has 5-piece neck, Grover tuners, gold hardware, fancy inlays, stop tailpiece. None come with a case except the IBJL. There are other minor differences. The Elitist models and 1965 JL Casinos are a whole other level of quality... BTW, the older Korean-made Epis are more sought after and therefore more "valuable".

The '09 VG Price Guide has the PR350 in "excellent condition" valued at between $200 to $250. The cutaway version PR350CE is listed at $275 to $325. It seems that one of the things that holds the price of these guitars down is the wide availability of new, high-quality Asian-made guitars of the same type, i.g. Epi Masterbuilt, Takamine, Yamaha, etc.

Thanks Svet, I've been meaning to add a couple more demos with the LP '57 Jr. RI and the cigar box guitar. Might also help if I warmed up a little. Maybe I'll do it today, the wife's going out for a while... PS, you live in New England area, right? There's a VINTAGE '66 tea burst Casino at the Natick, MA Guitar Center. Single P90, but it sure looks nice. Item no. 103383147, on sale for $1,995. Seems like a good price... And to anyone in the NC area, there's a JL Revolution Casino at the Durham GC for $1,500, item no. 105077594. Cheers, Brian

Now THAT'S a bolt-on!

That's right at the scarf joint, not a good sign. Loosen the string tension and take it to a reputable luthier, for sure...

According to Guitardater.com: Your guitar was made in Korea December 2000 Production Number: 0542 I'd guess it sold for around $300. Probably a spruce top and mahogany or rosewood laminate sides and back. But post some pics, it's fairly difficult to elicit much response from the knowledgeable folks on this forum with out them: http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8886

Is this it? http://www.guitar-museum.com/guitar-7569-VINTAGE-GIBSON-EPIPHONE-PR720S-ACOUSTIC-GUITAR http://reviews.harmony-central.com/reviews/Guitar/product/Epiphone/PR+720S/10/1 What info are you looking for?

Nice!

Red, with a luthier's or dental mirror, you should be able to see whether the grain under the top runs the same direction, or matches the top through the F-holes. Might save you from dismantling the thing unnecessarily... I'd favor a 1-ply laminate over a solid-carved top because it means the guitar will stand up better to temp and humidity variations over it's usable life. Unless it's in a controlled-temp museum, that's a more practical instrument IMHO. My '68 Guild A500 has taken a beating since I got it as a college student in '75, and still has no cracks front or back, I'd bet only because it's a lam top:

Somehow I can't see a maple neck on a Martin. But you could write Chris Martin and suggest it, I hear he answers all his fan mail...

This thread reminded me of the "Stratabond" laminate necks that C.F. Martin is using on their current 1-Series guitars. They claim these necks are 25% stronger than solid Mahogany. There's a video review of the guitar and a discussion of the neck at about 1:40 of this video: http://www.premierguitar.com/Magazine/Issue/2009/Jul/Sneak_Peek_Martin_1_Series.aspx Pics from a factory tour last summer:

Bump...:)

Yep, it's not the tank as I figured. Post it on www.sewatt.com and see if anyone there has any ideas. Let us know what you find out, we'd all benefit. Thanks, Brian

Congrats Dino, I'm keeping mine too. 1) I'm still hoping that someone at the Sewatt site will come up with a mod to the reverb circuit, it doesn't appear to be a problem with the tank itself. 2) Back panels are put on while the tolex glue is still drying, so it tends to weep out and glue the panel to the enclosure. Same problem on the other two Epi valve amps I've had. 3) Probably correct. These amps are not really intended as hard core touring amps. 4) Mostly the weight of the MDF enclosure. Cheers, and enjoy...

That is funny, and awfully nice of you to let her make the call like that. Anyways, the VSr is a more MANLY piece of gear. If I remember, the Palominos are white with gold accents....

Can you post the link? I don't see it on the site... Thanks, Brian