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wildschwein262

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Everything posted by wildschwein262

  1. Bought one of these new in 2009 and still use it today. Amazing solid state amp. It's loud enough to gig with and has a lot of tonal and recording capabilities.
  2. They're not labelled but I suspect they're made at the same Chinese factory as the Eminence Lady Luck speakers that go in the BC-30s. The Triggerman 60's speaker is a good one IMO though and a lot warmer and looser feeling than the Lady Luck.
  3. I have a BC30 and it too was an ex-display model. They do hiss and hum a bit but it is most notable on mine in 15 watt mode. The reverb can also be a source of hiss when turned up loud. I've read that some of the noise is due to the actual design of the amp. If you've just picked it up you probably need to consider changing the tubes first. A lot of really bad hiss could be related to this. I have Electro Harmonix 12AXHs in my preamp section, the stock Chinese 12AX7Bs in the reverb slots; and a pair of (Reflektor-marketed) Sveltlana 6L6GCs in the power section. It didn't cost me a lot for the extra tubes and they improved the sound and performance of the amp - but the hum in 15 watt mode is still present. I prefer 30 watt mode anyway (which is very quiet) so not a huge problem for me. Hopefully others here will have further advice for you.
  4. About 18 months ago I contacted Gibson and asked if you could drop KT66s into the BC-30. The short answer is you can and heater current is no problem. The copy of the email is below: I said: "Hi, I recently purchased a BC30 amp and have seen some comments on online guitar forums that state that the amp's designer (Pyotr Belov) has said it would be okay to use KT66 tubes in the power section. As I am aware that most KT66s draw more heater current than regular 6L6s or 5881 tubes I just thought I'd ask if it is possible to find out if the transformer on the BC30 is up to the task. Kind regards, Canaan Perry." ...and the reply was: "Hello, Yes – the KT66 is interchangeable with the 6L6. Although the output is higher on the KT, the transformer can handle it. I would recommend using KT66-C. Thanks. Best regards, Bob Burns" Of course the KT-66C is a Chinese KT-66 tested and sold by Groove Tubes. So, I guess the recommendation is for a Chinese KT66. Haven't tried it yet myself because I really dig the sound of my Svetlana Reflektor-marketed 6L6GCs. When they're worn out maybe I'll try a set of KT-66 bottles but as noted above you have to add some spring retainers, as the beer traps won't hold them.
  5. My BC30 hums in 15 watt mode - always has - so I just always set it in 30 watt mode where the hum is not present. I prefer the sound of it like that anyway; as there is more headroom and clarity. The reverb is funny on these - kind of weak but bloomy all at the same time. I think you should change out the valves and see what happens. Reverb is run by v3 and v5 from memory.
  6. Actually I don't have a dedicated cab for it at the moment but I just set it up to run through the two 12s in my BC30. Sounds pretty good. I do like the 2x12 configuration but it is a lot to lug around to gigs and rehearsals etc. I'd prefer to run the head through a 1x12 box with something like an Eminence Delta or an EV in it.
  7. I use mine for blues, rock, jazz and fusion stuff and it has plenty of volume for that. I always run my volume under 50% and compete easily with bass and drums in the 3 piece I play in. I love mine BTW. Fantastic amplifier with a great clean channel that really loves pedals in front. The sound is huge and very warm because the cabinet is so large for a 1x12. Enjoy it man; it's one of the best SS amps around IMHO. I also have the Epi BC30 which is all valve but I prefer my Triggerman 60 in every regard over it. I loved my Triggerman so much I went out and picked up the 100 watt head too.
  8. Hey Barry. Changing the power tubes makes a big difference. The bottom end is greatly improved. It becomes very hi-fi-like. I recommend Svetlana 6L6GCs. I just got Reflektor-marketed ones and they sound great to me but winged Cs could be worth the investment. A lot of the toppy-ness in the amp comes from the Sovtek 5881 or 6L6WXT+ power tubes that the amp ships with. Changing the preamp tubes yields less dramatic results but it's probably worth it. I went for EHX 12ax7s in all positions except the two reverb slots (V3 and V5 from memory) were I kept the stock Chinese 12ax7bs. This made things a tad smoother overall. Changing the rectifier yields negligible results in my opinion. They may change the feel marginally but not the sound. Just put something reliable in there - a Sovtek (some BC30s shipped with one) or JJ is fine.
  9. Hey Man, I've been through a similar tube swapping journey with my BC30 and play in the same genres you do. In the end I gave up on the clean channel - I just found it was a little too upper-midrangey for me. For pristine cleans I prefer a slightly sucked midrange tone ala Black and Silverface Fender. On my BC30 I just set the dirt channel to the edge of break up and use my guitar volume to dial in a semi-clean sort of sound when required. I then use an ehx double muff fuzz or a marshall guvnor to get more dirt for harder rock stuff. Having said that I would be interested to see how things work out with your clean channel after some modding.
  10. I put some Svetlana 6L6GCs (Reflektor marketed not winged Cs) into mine and have been impressed with the sound ever since. I use EH 12ax7s and a JJ rectifier tube.
  11. Perhaps you could experiment with some different output tubes. I found the stock Sovtek 5881s and 6L6WXTs don't really put out the most harmonically rich or loudest sound with these amps. I personally like Reflektor marketed Svetlana 6L6GGCs - they certainly gave my BC30 a bit more oomph in the volume department - mainly because they seem to have more bottom end and a warmer midrange.
  12. They're not that easy to come by in Australia and usually cost about $50-$60 AU retail. S/H they're almost non-existent unless they are being sold with a S/H amp. The footswitch is not included when you buy the amp new. The footswitches are sold under a brand name called Legacy here as well but they are the same inflated price new. I also have two Epiphone Triggerman amps and they use a regular Marshall-style 2 button footswitch (which I can get for $30) but it doesn't work with the BC30. I have the gear available to make the footswitch; enclosures, cable, switches etc I just need a couple of pointers on where to put a few of wires.
  13. Has anyone successfully made a footswitch for the BC30? I've messed around with some cable, a jack and dpdt switch sort of following the official schematic and I only seem to be able switch between channels which also defeats the reverb. I'm looking to switch channels and leave the reverb on - anyone got a layout, or even a photo of the commercial FS I could take a look at? Thanks, Canaan.
  14. Could be a bad 12ax7 tube - try locating the driver and return tubes for the reverb (V3 and V5 I believe) and replace them with known good ones. It may not be the tank itself - although I wouldn't rule it out yet.
  15. I have the 100w head and the 60w combo and love them both - the electronics are pretty much the same except for the output stage. The cleans are really good - tube-like and sort of on the warmish side - and it takes dirt and modulation pedals well. The onboard fx are good; I use the delay for an always-on echo and the reverb is better than some spring units I've heard; like what you get on lower end Peaveys for example. I think they're really great amps and worth the money - the dirt channel is also pretty good once you learn how to eq it, but you can get get everything from fusion to psychedelic stuff out of it. The amp is perfect for blues, country, folk, classic rock - hard rock and metal need to come out of a pedal. There are plenty of reviews on harmony central and musicians friend if you want some more details. I would recommend them over a lot of lower end tube amps any day of the week.
  16. The BC30 sounds great if you change out the tubes. I found the Sovtek 5881s and 6l6WXTs are just too brittle and too flabby sounding. They're work horse tubes that last forever but don't sound very good in this particular amp. I put in some Reflektor-marketed (ie not the winged C's) Svetlana 6L6GCs and EHX 12ax7ehs in v1, v2 and v4 (reverb v3 and v5 are still stock Chinese 12ax7bs); and also a JJ rectifier tube. My od channel now sounds absolutely great - I actually prefer it to the clean channel. Sure it's still bright, especially on the bridge pickup but it has a huge, rich bottom end (almost piano-like) and an harmonically complex midrange that can only be called juicy. And, I can control it all from my guitar via pickup selection and tone and volume controls. I can back off the volume and get a reasonable clean tone; roll off the tone knob and get a good woman tone from the front pickup. On some all-Humbucker equipped guitars I have a phase switch that allows me to get some BB King and Peter Green type sounds; especially with the reverb turned up high. I find though that you have to set the knobs on the amp in the right way so you don't unleash too much brightness. Independent mode on the eq is the only way to go. The interactive mode is pure icepick - great if you're going for the "Achilles Last Stand" guitar tone but too much brightness for everyday use. I run my bass knob on full, my treble on about 9-10 'o' clock and the mid knob on very low - about 8 'o' clock. The mid knob on the general eq is where all the nasty stuff is - keeping it low keeps all the brightness from coming through. On the drive channel I run the mid "contour" knob on full because that lets through the warmer lower midrange - on lower settings the tone is thin. I run the od gain between 12 and 3 'o' clock depending on the guitar I'm using. I still have an okay sound on the clean side but I would call it warm and Jazzy. But to get a better clean sound I just lift the treble a little more and maybe add just a touch more of the mids. This amp does older guitar styles best - stuff like Blues, Rockabilly, Country, Jazz, 70s Fusion etc. It's not suited to really hard rock and detuned metal IMO. I even find that vintage sounding pedals work pretty well with this amp; fuzz, old-school phasers, Univibe clone pedals, analog delays and choruses all sound great; but modern high gain dirt boxes and digital delays and choruses sound rather bad and tinny. It takes some time and experimentation but you can get good sounds out of this amp without cutting any capacitors. I didn't like it at first but since the Svetlanas and 12ax7ehs went in I'm loving it.
  17. Hi all; just looking for some technical advice, I am currently running my Epiphone (Epi) Triggerman 100DSP head through the speaker cab of my Epi BC30 which is a 2x12 cab wired for 8ohms - at least according to my research and wiring knowledge. The two Lady Luck speakers are supposedly 16ohms and wired in parallel. The Triggerman head has two 16ohm speaker outputs, which I think means that the amp can handle a maximum load of 8ohms; which I guess should give me full power from the amp. The problem is though that it all seems to work fine and it sounds great but I the amp seems a little too quiet. I believe this because I also have the Triggerman 60DSP combo which is only 60 watts coming out of one 12" speaker and that amp sounds a lot louder at the same stages on the master volume knob - the overall maximum volumes of both amps seems to be about the same. So the question is - am I right in assuming that plugging one 8ohm load into one of the Triggerman 100's 16ohm outputs should automatically give me access to the amp's full power, or is this potentially incorrect?
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