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jaydodge

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About jaydodge

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  1. quick update..found some spare time to mod this again so i decided to add a triode mode switch on the back to reduce the output power from 20watts to something more bedroom friendly..definitely did the trick - plus it adds a bit more tonal variety. it involves removing R21/R23, adding them to the bottom of a DPDT switch, joining them and running a single wire back to the B+ line for grid 2..with the two middle pins on the switch, you connect up wires back to where R21/R23 were (so one wire from pin 4 of each output tube)..then the top of the switch has a couple of 100ohm fusibles for protection with wires going back to the pin 3 of each output, making sure you follow the same pattern you used for the wiring of each pin 4.. very happy with the result.. :) jay
  2. here are some pics.. http://img88.imageshack.us/g/jaydodgedwellmodfullcov.jpg/ when i am listening to this amp and not looking at it, it's fantastic..pitty about it being so bloody ugly haha...coz damn it sounds great..i am in two minds about keeping it given the number of amps i have..i can't keep all of them and it is damn ugly...the only reason it is still here is because it sounds amazing..but i only have room for so many....the dilemma! oh..and from the outside, it looks like this... http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/1872/jaydodgebackdwellcontro.jpg cya jay
  3. yeah with stock tubes i changed it to 680ohm (R22) to begin with..the bypass cap (C25) can be left (in terms of voltage rating) as it wont make much difference - if it blows, it blows and you'll just have less stuff to clean up with the small cap that is there.
  4. *brain-fart edit* i think the heater current is higher for 6L6s (double?)..they're bias'd pretty badly in the valve senior - before i put any tubes i cared about in there, i'd change the 10w cathode resistor from 250ohms to something like 680 or 1K..probably not a bad thing to do anyway for tube life..at least with the stock tubes.
  5. Hi bremzzi, yes this is what i have in my amp except I changed R31 from 1M to 2M. I have R31 and R24 removed from the board and connected directly to the pot at the back of the amp (next to the speaker outs). So yes, sounds good and not just an idea I will send through a photo later jay
  6. I had a look at my dwell mod setup..here is what I have in there at the moment. I would be interested to know if anyone else has tried something similar. Also..I cleaned up the schematic a little more - added voltages etc.. cya jay
  7. you can always add a headphone output with 2 resistors and a cap hanging off an 8ohm speaker output...bare in mind that guitar speakers and headphones are going to sound different..which is where something like the pod, or a vox tonelab st or digitech rp500 is nice...since you can simulate speaker cabs and amps.. btw, i have an ac4tv8 and its great..i would also give a nod to the traynor amps.. but yeah..check out the digitech rp500..or even the tonelab st (which isnt that bad either ;)).
  8. V2 in the schematic (and labeled on the board) ..but in terms of location, its actually the first small tube closest to the input jack and gain knob.. http://img690.imageshack.us/i/valveseniorjaydodge4a.jpg/
  9. it might work..i might be imagining that tho could be something around there ;) next time it blows you could try a 1u cap then and see what happens..i might try a 22u and see :)
  10. do you have the combo? the head definitely fits perfectly on top, so if the combo is the same dimensions then i would say yes
  11. Hi J Ventura I doubled checked my board and C25 is definitely 1uF/50V (branded Imagine like the rest) on my revision..so they might have changed that already?? - the last 4 digits of my serial are 0010. I will have to remove the board to check what value was in C6/7 - but could be a similar revision..it wouldn't make a huge difference - you can graph the difference in that tone stack program.. Thanks for checking it out Re dwell control - it probably slots in where R31/R24 are. You could remove R24, then disconnect the end of R31 from pin 2 of the tube, then connect pin 3 of your 1M pot to R31, pot pin 2 to tube pin 2 and pot pin 3 to ground where R24 was..least i think that was it from memory :)..better go and check that too :)
  12. in australia, the first batch of bugera amp heads had a failure rate of 100%. even the floor stock blew up and got repaired.. fried output transformers, melted plugs inside the chassis.. allans were stocking them here, but due to the problems with the first batch, dropped them like a hot potato. the design problems were fixed after a certain serial so they should be 'safer' now. the V5 5w combo came out after their first lot of amps so they might be ok..for some reason i thought the reverb was dsp based.
  13. the volume control on the valve jr as stock is really just a gain control..hence why its a struggle to keep the volume done but the gain up..if you're looking for another volume control so you can get cranked sounds at lower volume, check out the badcat minicat 1 schematic as it is compatible with valve jr.
  14. nope C12 is next to the bridge recitifer for the heaters on your board.. hence you have 2 now. its not a shame - your amp was already closer to duhvoodoomans.. you do undertand a V2 is better than V1 (hence why duhvoodooman had to do mods to get his V1 to be more like a V2 which you already have). and a V3 is slightly more improved again, although I'd prefer to have your V2..it's better for modding :-
  15. i misread some of the resistor values and messed up some of the layout in the power supply..so i have updated the schematic again!! :) EDIT - moved presence knob, tried to clean it up a bit more..i'll do the voltages later. cheers, jay
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