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Everything posted by teegar

  1. I've seen 40's 50's zephyrs that need a little bit of work go for 1200-1400. Most sellers want something like 2200 for them, but that's high. The vintage guitar magazine price guide 2010 edition, probably the most reliable source, says 1200-1450 for the standard Zephyr, 1400-1800 for the Zephyr Regent (Zephyr with a cutaway). Higher prices for naturals than sunbursts, and of course (original) condition is everything.
  2. Wayne Kramer, of the MC5, one of my favorite underrated bands. Thanks to youtube, I can now see him wailing away on his Epi Wilshire. Of course, you can't really watch all 8 minutes... but now I'm inspired to see what my little reissue will do........... [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]
  3. That is a screaming beauty. Tell us how the middle position sounds for the P-90, compared to neck/bridge most of us are used to. How could you be done? Where's the acoustic(s)? The solidbody?
  4. Honestly I wouldn't rout for the third pickup. Granted, the Wilshire reissue is an inexpensive guitar and you can take some risks without getting burned too badly, but it just seems like a LOT of work with potential for for things to go wrong, for what kind of payoff? You might want to reconsider just re-doing the stock pickups and electronics and get the thing rocking. I put a pair of Seymour Duncan Antiquity II minihums in mine, new pots, switch, jack and wires, sounds great. The pickups had to be removed from their soapbar mounts (soldered in place) and were slightly smaller than the stock mounting rings, but got those problems solved and it looks and sounds great. Lollars were a bit more $$$, but have a great reputation. You could always get Gibson minihums too - for two, Gibsons ~$200 USD, SD's ~ $225, Lollars ~$300. I tried replacing the bridge and stop tailpiece, but the Stew-Mac Gotoh replacements didn't fit right, so not worth it - they're not that bad anyway. And play the thing for a while with the stock tuners before you drop $ on new ones, they may be just fine. Just my 2 cents, but I bet you'd be happier getting the thing playing with some great new pickups, without trying to make it something it's not. Good luck with it all-
  5. Stewart - I went with Seymour Duncan Antiquity II minihumbuckers. They do sound great, I'll post on the installation soon, it was NOT straightforward, but not bad really. They're designed to fit into Les Paul Deluxes, not Epis (like Sheraton, Wilshire. etc.) $230 is a great price, someone should snap that up.
  6. Welcome Rhinobean, and HNGD!! That's a very nice looking example, looks like great wood. I'm very happy with mine, purchased in March, I did a pickups/controls/wiring replacement and it sounds wonderful. Hopefully yours is sounding great stock. They're so retro cool! Peter, the standard Epiphone SG hardcase fits the Wilshire - http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Epiphone-SG-Hardshell-Case?sku=517247
  7. According to the Vintage Guitar mag price guide, a 1964 Casino in excellent condition is 4-5 grand. A strap button shouldn't do too much to value - don't wear a belt buckle when you play standing. Unless the change to Bigsby would make a big difference in your playing comfort and tone, don't do it. With vintage gear, you can always make changes later, but you can't undo a change. And you never know what you might sell later, even if you're sure you'll keep it forever.
  8. Post pictures and a review after you've had it to play for a bit. There seems to be a good bit of curiosity about this model, so any more input would be good. HNGD!
  9. Been away for a while, but here's a late weigh-in on the Wilshire '66 reissue. The guitar itself (my example anyway) seems very well-built. Got it back in March from Musician's friend on sale for $320. Long neck tenon, good joints, neck's good, frets are good, very little to complain about for fit and finish. Worn cherry is the way to go, nice red color; aged cherry just looks like a weak brown stain, and black is OK if you like that. Acoustically, unplugged that is, it sounds very nice and just vibrates in your hands My problem was with the electronics. I guess I just never had cheap pickups before, and the wiring was not a top-notch job. For the price, I didn't care. I put Seymour Duncan Antiquity II minihumbuckers in, and new Alpha pots, Gotoh switch and jack, new wires. Sounds much better; before it had a bad hum (from a bad ground), and the pickups (again, my example) just sounded weak. Now it's much fuller, richer - but, I went for the independent volume wiring and that led to problems with treble loss when you lower the volume pots. I plan to re-wire to conventional scheme this weekend, and will post on the sound. For now, I love the look and feel, and I'm getting to the tone, and it was an inexpensive experiment. They're just cool.
  10. You posted previously with a youtube video link showing the procedure. If done as in the video, it should be fine. If you grab a solder gun putting out 900 degrees and hold it on the pickup for a minute, chances are you'd damage the thing. Use common sense.
  11. As I'm taking apart the controls on my Wilshire, I've noticed a few issues - the bridge pickup volume pot end lug wasn't grounded; tone caps were wired behind the tone pots, such that the wire going into the cap could hit ground before actually getting to the cap; some of the solder joints were dull, and thus possibly cold. Dump that on top of less than top shelf parts (one pot was Alpha, the other three were no name), and that can hamper your tone. I'm finding it fun to work on replacement, now if I can just pull it off successfully..........
  12. Once again, thanks animalfarm, this was really helpful. I hope to have the wiring completed in a couple of days, life keeps interrupting and refusing a couple of hours of free time, but I'll let you all know how the independent wiring job went.
  13. Nice work, congrats and welcome to the group! I have SD Seth Lovers in my Heritage 575, great sound, clean as you want but potent when you want it. Rock on.
  14. You're the best animalfarm. I finally got someone from stewmac on the phone and they assured me there really was no difference with wiring pickup to wiper or end lug, other than the individual control, so I'll go with it. Thanks much for the help, I'll post with pics of my mess when it's done!
  15. Thanks animal farm and JB - That 50's wiring looks OK, but I'm still wondering about where exactly the signal goes if the input (pickup output) goes to the wiper, and if the pot is at say 5, it seems to me the signal could travel towards the ouput to switch, and towards the ground, and so attenuate more to ground than if the input were on the end. I was watching a vid with Dan Erlewine, who kept referring to the shielded cable as coax, so that's what stuck in my mind. This is what it looks like, compared to 4-wire.
  16. So I'm on the verge of soldering my way into trouble with the Wilshire reissue upgrade. All new pots, switch, jack, and of course minihums. A few dilemmas I hope you folks can straighten me out on. 1) Seymour Duncan wiring shows the tone cap soldered to the back of the tone pot, while Stew Mac shows the cap soldered to the volume pot grounded lug. No difference I assume, any advantage either way? (See pics below) 2) Stew-Mac alternate control wiring shows that if the pickup and wire to tone pot come in on the middle (wiper) lug, and output to switch on the end, this will allow independent volume control when both pickups are on in the middle switch position. Does this work as advertised? This will sound very naive, but as you turn the volume pot down, if the signal is coming in through the wiper, couldn't it travel in either direction, would you be losing more to ground than other wise if the pickup output were on the end lug? 3) Finally, the S-M wiring kit gives you a good length of shielded coaxial cable to connect switch to pots and jack, rather than a shielded 4-wire (which would be easier). I almost dread sending 3 lengths, from bridge volume and neck volume pots, and jack, to the switch; and then how best to ground? Should I send a plain old unshielded wire from the switch ground to the back of a pot? What about the shielding in the coaxial, does each shield need to also be grounded? Seems like there won't be any room on the back of pots for all this grounding! Do I need to bite the bullet and just get some 4-wire (and if so, why doesn't Stew-Mac put THAT in their wiring kits?) Really appreciate any thoughts, pics below.
  17. I've had three guitars (acoustics) refretted, each time it was $150-$175. A set up should be about $75, more if issues are discovered. So I would have hoped to get that work done for $300. If your guy is really good, and you know it'll come out the way you want it, $500 hurts but you won't have regrets about the quality of the work.
  18. Another, thing, the bevel angle on the fret ends looks very shallow (or deep, depending on perspective), which should result in the high E string (and possibly low E as well) slipping off the frets. Man, is that annoying. Quick, return it and ask that someone absolutely check over the replacement for fit and finish before shipping a new one.
  19. Great story ending Guitartrade. For sure I wasn't saying you were foolish, only saying that value is so subjective sometimes - when I say fool's errand I don't mean a fool would do it, just that it can lead in circles and not to a definite and satisfactory outcome. For me the satisfactory outcome is the joy it brings me is well worth the money spent. All this Sorrentino mojo is getting me revved up about them again, starting to wish I'd grabbed that Artist model that was on ebay a few weeks ago. Starting bid of $500, and the auction expired without a bid. It did have a really big, ugly crack down the length of the back however, and would have needed a bunch of structural and cosmetic work, and that always scares me off. OK, the race is on, whoever gets the next one keep us drooling with photos-
  20. Most folks get an appraisal from Gruhn because they intend to sell their instrument, and Mr. Gruhn is recognized worldwide as one of the top authorities on vintage instruments, especially acoustics. So if he says it's worth 2 grand, the hopeful seller can put that number out with some confidence. That said, if you peruse Gruhn's website, you'll see a great many guitars that have sat there for years. That it's worth 2 grand doesn't mean you could sell it for 2 grand anytime soon. As always, with "antiques" or other used/vintage items, something is worth what someone eventually pays for it. I also collect old books, and it's the same thing, folks put a price on a book and it sits around - if they can wait to get their investment recouped. So the Gruhn estimate is great for insurance purposes, and a great thing to help someone sell an item, but chasing values can be a fool's errand. I always say it's worth what you would pay for it - it's not worth getting a second appraisal. If you put that baby on ebay (DON'T!!) tomorrow, it would probably fetch 1200 USD. If you plan to keep it, and I guess you do, congratulations, you can't put a price on the endless smiles it will give you :D
  21. Great looking guitar, especially the back and sides. Set that baby up and play it. I'm sure far fewer than 800 Sorrentinos were ever made, in all the years of production. The serial numbers, as best anyone knows, are continuous with Epiphone serial numbers. According to Fisch and Fred's "House of Stathopoulo", the most reliable source, serial numbers in the 7000's were made in 1933, so yours would be a very early one, my Arcadia is in the 9000's, so a 1935 guitar. All acoustic guitars made by Epiphone (no matter the brand) would be numbered in the 7000's for 1933 (again, allowing for possible errors not noted by Fisch and Fred), and the vast majority of those would have been Epiphones, very few winding up as Sorrentinos - after all, they'd want to push their own name first. Rare indeed, but rarity does not equal value. As you said, it's priceless to you - that's what it's worth!
  22. I have a Sorrentino Arcadia - cool little guitar from 1935. Sorrentinos are very uncommon - dare I say rare. The was an Artist model on ebay a couple of weeks ago, like a Broadway but with Triumph fret inlays, very nice but a huge crack down the back so I passed. I saw, some years ago, another Arcadia for sale at Vintage Instruments in Philly (I must go there sometime) for $500, listed as needing work. I got mine for $350 (off ebay), and it needed about $150 put into it to make it fully playable. Other than those, I haven't seen any for sale or even on website "museums". There's the dream Sorrentino, the Premier (=Tudor) in the House of Stathopoulo book. Nobody knows how many Sorrentinos were made, but it can't be too many. Despite that, they don't seem to command prices comparable to other old Epi archtops, just not enough of a cult following. Here's a few pics of the Arcadia - the sunburst is a very modest "cremona" brown, not the typical dark sunburst of Epi's of that era, with a nice walnut back. House of Stathopoulo compares it to an Olympic, but it's really more like a Zenith - 14.5 inches across the lower bout, pressed walnut back, carved spruce top - the exact specs of the Zenith of the time (1934-5), when the Olympic was 13.5 inches and mahogany. This guitar is rather thin sounding, but great cutting and ringing treble for leads, that's what it's best for.
  23. Yes, you can tap them back in with a small hammer, the best is an actual fret hammer. But you need to be careful, the neck needs to be well supported right under where you're tapping/hammering. Even then, if they sprang up once, they can or maybe will again. Some luthiers recommend some superglue in the slot to help hold the fret down, but since you've got fingerboard binding this would not be something to try yourself. Your fingerboard may have dried out and shrunk a little, allowing the fret tangs to loosen and the fret to pop up. Really, the best bet is to take it to a decent luthier, who could probably fix it quickly and without too much cost. But if you're feeling lucky, tap the edges down and see how it holds. Read up on the web about hammering frets for some tips on technique. Good luck!
  24. This one makes me wonder if ol' Cooper is trolling ebay, but no doubt too much of a frankenguitar for him. If one were crazy enough it could inspire a project frenzy, "make your own thinline". What possessed someone to do this? http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-1953-Epiphone-ZEPHYR-Made-New-York-modified-/230478309665?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Guitar&hash=item35a993e921 (Couldn't load a pic, sorry)
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