Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

Banastre

Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Banastre

  • Rank
    Newbie
  1. Yeah I've never used connections in any of my fleet- hardwried to the core also. Since this is my first semi-hollow I thought I'd make it simpler down the road. Anyone ever heard of a right-angled soldering iron for these F-Holes, maybe with attached mirror and light? Maybe a fiber-optic camera/monitor system? GPS might help, too[biggrin] Seriously, thanks for the help. I do agree that soldering is way better than some sort of plug. Any other input/opinions out there?
  2. First off, sorry if this has been covered before, but a search led to alot reading/skimming so bear with me. I have ordered the Mojo 335 upgrade, and am waiting for the post-installation to see if the pups need replacing or not. I'd like to simplify a pup exchange in the future (if needed) by soldering/installing a plug/connection from the existing pups to the new harness. Mojo installs one if you get Mojo pups (which I did not). What connection should I be looking for, and where? Radio Shack, etc?
  3. When I first got this guitar, I tried Meguiars since I had it already for my builds and was promptly laughed at by the poly finish. Will have to go to a tougher grit. I wouldn't ever personally try wheel buffing but would leave that to the pros, like you said. My limited experience with them on non-guitar stuff tells me that 'Banastre+wheel buffing=bad finish'. The big long crack in the finish on the back I may try to fix with superglue, as it doesn't go to the wood, fortunately. Since it's on the back, I figure I can at least try without too much to lose. Down the road on that project though. I wanna get it improved first in the 'engine' department. First off, a Graphtech tusq nut has just been ordered. I love 'em and use 'em on all the ships in the fleet, but never got around to doing it on this one, oddly enough. The Sheraton sounded so 'dead' last night I had to take the plunge, since the strings needed changing too. I looked around a bit on the web at re-wiring hollow-bodies, but wonder what is the advice here. Take out a pup, or do it all through the F hole? No experience with that solid block of wood under the top, no idea what it looks like under there. Any advice is appreciated, certainly!
  4. Ok, you all sold me on not stripping it. The more I've looked around the web at pics of these bursts, the more I'm getting attached to it. Not sure I'm even going to re-sell it back to him! Thinking of changing out the pots and jack, as I'm getting scratches and cut-outs. Maybe go with vitamin q's. Input on that anyone? Should both pots be 500 audio? The Sheraton wiring diagram at gibson's site says yes unless it is USA, which mine is not.
  5. brianh, yup, you're totally correct. My input was more of a 'this is what I'd try based on what I know, have done and have read' and should be taken with caution. Ply is deffinately tricky material! However, I have to encourage the attempt. Bad Juju should probably practice by puting some light coats of cheap spraypaint and lots of cheap poly on some small cheap plywood, then practice sanding it to get a feel. The poly is not going to be the same as instrument poly (plastic) but he'd get an idea what he's in for and a sense of how much is too much. If he's still willing to hit the guitar, then I'd say start at the horns or some edge where the dark part of the burst could hide a flaw. A sand-though there, if small enough, could be hidden and leveled by some grain filler or suitable putty.
  6. EDIT:sorry for the wide post. Bad Juju, I personally say go for it. With respect to to all opinions stated, and that is sincere, give it a try. It's your guitar. You want it the way you want it, so I say make it happen! People take neck pups off a Tele to make them into Esquires (and vice-verca), put Gibson humbucker on a Fender, and even put Floyd Rose's on Les Pauls. The list is endless. I am having the same issue with a Sheraton burst that I want to be natural, but I am leaning to keep it a burst and re-sell it to get what I want, so take my advice with a grain of hyprcritical salt. If you want it a certain way, and are willing to learn as you go, then go for it. With the laminate, yes you certainly have to be careful. Don't attack it with 80 grit, but be gentle with 80 grit. You see bare wood, move to a different spot. It has to be by hand, no disk sanders. It's gonna take time, lots of it, but if you want it go for it. Like Musikron said, the stripping-off is the hard part, the REALLY hard and careful and meticulous part- the color and finish are the 'fun' part. You mess that up there is always lacquer thinner to easily strip and start over. My burst took 4 tries, but it was in 3 days. The miracle of nitro...and lacquer thinner.. After the bare wood is sufficiently clean there is Sand and Sealer to help out rough spots. I wouldn't sand at the recommended 220 on a laminate, but maybe 400, maybe 600. That means, I'd get the poly off with 80 or even 120 for more control (but lots more paper and time), then jump to 600 or 400 or 320, to get the ridges off, then S n S. Enough coats of sand and sealer can go a long way to correct issues, trust me. Deft S n S is nitro, and dries in about 2 hours, at $5 a can where I live. That allows me to put on 3-4 coats a day if I have to. There is also the use of 'drop-fill' for a deep gouge. Research, research, research. I am a member of the ReRanch forum and the MyLesPaul forum. Those places inspired me to take the plunge years ago and do my own. Two Teles, maybe a Sheraton II(still undecided on that), and a 59 LP scratchbuild. Not a kit, from scratch, and I'm NOT a luthier. The two Teles used ReRanch spraybombs, the LP I invested in spray equipment. Dyed the bare wood using alcohol dyes from Stew-Mac, then all nitro for the burst (hence I was easily able to strip it back to the yellow only). Decent compressor and the $14 detail spray guns from Harbor Freight. Never did a burst before, but I got it right. It's a little dark in the pic, since I took it in the shade to prevent glare. More of a honey burst, with less red now that I've let the UV rays of the sun fade it a bit. If you go the ReRanch way follow the 'refinishing 101' found on the home-page and you WILL do fine. Rule of threes. And research research research.
  7. Funny you should all talk of selling it because the guy who sold it to me for $250 is willing to buy it back for $500!! BTW the $250 included its Epi hardshell case! It was a steal I couldn't pass up! My only hollow (well, semi-hollow) body. Big lover of the sound... Yeah I agree with you guys about appreciating its beauty. It IS the historically accurate sunburst for Sheratons, and I AM a retro-nut. Shame on me for not liking the burst, really. I always figured it's only ten-ish years old so not vintage, and for the price it would become a project guitar to correct the frets and scratches (gouges). The pups sound good enough but could be improved. I get scratches when a pot or two is turned, and the jack connection has cut-out issues too.. The tuners arn't bad at at all. I'd love at least a Bigsby on it. She does need work, and I've made two guitars and re-fined one, so it is well within my means. Not a pro luthier, but a player and craftsman/hobbyist. Is gold hardware the only 'option' for factory burst Sheratons? I've yet to see a pic of one with chrome or nickel. And is the burst-on-front also standard? Again, I'm a Fender guy.
  8. Hello all, first post here, and glad I stumbled upon this forum! Serial #S99024871. Couple years ago I got this Korean-made Sheraton II from a band-mate that needed fast cash. $250! It has a couple deep scratches on the back and needs a re-fret. You can actually get your tumbnail under the sides of most of them. The gold hardware had serious pitting and thick layers of gunk. Not shown in the pic is the E tortise pickguard, but I have it installed now. The binding one the guard needed glued down, because about 6 inches of it was hanging free. An easy fix. Anyway.. Sorry to offend anyone here, but I'm not a fan of the dark-burst. I'd love a natural finish, or even a straight cherry. My question is the burst istelf. I'd hate to go to the trouble of sanding it only to find I could have saved my time and made it a solid color. The dark areas are usually to hide an ugly flaw in the wood. Since these are veneered, would there be any? Also, I'm a Fender guy, so I was wondering is it normal that only the front is a burst??
×
×
  • Create New...