Be.eM
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Posts
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Posts posted by Be.eM
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4 hours ago, carlcaulkett said:
I __do__ hope you didn't disassemble an entire mechanism just for the sake of demonstrating to me how it works 😉
I didn't… in this case, but I've done in the past. I'm the owner of this website and that website and I have been doing (and still do) such things for fun, research, and learning 🙂
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6 minutes ago, carlcaulkett said:
The thing that confused me was that the grub screw seemed to be aligned in parallel …
Yes, you'd need to know the internals to understand how it works 🙂
The pointy tip of the grub screw pushes the ball, which pushes that plastic part against the trem arm.
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4 hours ago, carlcaulkett said:
…which seems to have some solid protuberance slightly reducing the effective width of the hole…
Always in the lower hole, where you'd expect it. If it fits in one hole and not the other, loosen the little grub screw behind the hole in which it doesn't fit (hex key, 1.5 mm). These grub screws are part of the clamping mechanism which thightens/holds the trem arm in its hole, and if it's too tight you probably won't get a trem arm in.
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6 mm is correct, plain end, no groove, no thread.
I've got these available, but they are not as cheap as the stuff you find on Amazon:
Bernd
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It looks like a sanded down Steinberger Spirit GU. No, the pickguard doesn't belong there.
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Your guitar was made in August 2007. Just enter the serial number here:
https://www.guitardaterproject.org/epiphone.aspx
The color (as per the catalog) is "translucent amber".
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Stating a false value on customs declarations is against the law everywhere on the world. Apart from the legal question: you cannot fully insure the shipment without stating the correct value. If the shipment gets lost or damaged and the seller has to refund the price, he's not insured and has to pay out of his own pocket.
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5 hours ago, jamag911 said:
If I wind it all the way out the thing snaps forward now when unlocked. As stated previously, I do not know what keeps the float position the same as the locked position.
Well, you're half way there understanding it. At first the "thing snapped backward", and now, after turning the thumb wheel all the way out the "thing snaps forward". The solution is finding the correct point of balance between "all the way in" and "all the way out". For doing so I told you to tune up the guitar in locked position, unlock (guitar goes out of tune now), and then turn the thumb wheel to adjust the spring tension until the guitar (or any string) is back in tune again. Then lock again to check/adjust tuning, unlock, and do the fine adjustment of the spring tension, so that locking and unlocking happens smoothly without changing the tuning.
To repeat the principle of that mechanism: that thumb wheel compresses/decompresses the spring which pushes the trem top into the opposite direction of the string pull. If the string pull is higher than the spring tension, the trem top is pulled upwards when unlocked (and tuning goes down), if the string pull is lower than the spring tension the trem top is pulled downwards (and tuning goes up). Find the point of balance by adjusting the thumb wheel.
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2 hours ago, jamag911 said:
When moving out of locked tremolo it the bridge just drops strongly back down to the lowest position. Any help is appreciated.
You mean the bridge drops down on the tuner side and the tuning gets high? In that case the spring tension is much too high. You'd need to lower the spring tension using the thumb wheel. Just turn the thumb wheel while monitoring the tuning of the high e-string. Turn it down until the high e-string shows correct tuning. Now the tremolo top should also be back in locking position for standard tuning, i.e., in "zero position".
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When the trem drops to the lowest position (or any other position than the correct center position) you'd need to adjust the spring tension with the thumb wheel on the back of the guitar. The spring tension needs to be set so that the locked and unlocked position are exactly the same. See the manual on pages 16-18.
When the trem is catching although it should be freely floating it's possible that the screw marked below is too far down. Loosen it a little bit, but only in small steps. If turned out too far the trem might not lock at all.
Bernd
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Hi,
I've got a spare one (new), bought back in the days when Hohner still sold replacement parts. If one is enough for you, send me an e-mail via my website.
Bernd
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That's a Spirit GT7 (name according to the 1997 dealer folder) with a non-original bridge pickup. Later (2000s) this guitar type was named Spirt GT-Pro Deluxe. You can see the guitar in that 1997 dealer folder here: Steinberger Catalogs
Bernd
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8 hours ago, sojczyn said:
Hi. I have a Spirit by Steinberger... No 5061838... What is a instrument and which year of production?
There is no complete information about Spirits, this thread is primarily about Steinberger USA serial numbers. However, there's some fragmentary information which points to 1996 as a build date for your Spirit. To determine what it is you'd need to show a pic.
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24 minutes ago, Betterblue said:
Looking for info on a Steinberger GM4T Serial #N5574.
Any place to find the date?
Most likely in 1988. The exact date might be available from Gibson Service (send them an e-mail).
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6 hours ago, yamandurod said:
…y cual es su modelo?
This is a GLB-2S. The successor to the GL-2, but with a wooden body, a composite neck and an S-Trem. I've answered the date question already above, about 2004.
Bernd
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15 minutes ago, ccondon23 said:
I'm trying to date/ID my Steinberger bass. It's a mini-V-shaped bass with the serial number N0393. Poking around on the internet leads me to believe that it's a 1984 XP-2. However, there's a "Made in Japan" sticker just below the bridge and I can't verify that any Steinbergers were built in Japan back then.
Your guess is correct. Not Steinbergers were made in Japan, but the bridges were manufactured by Zen-On in Japan. Maybe the sticker comes from the bridge.
Bernd
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3 hours ago, yamandurod said:
… numero de serie N000546, en que fecha calculan que se fabricó y cual es su modelo?
(tiene 2 microfonos EMG activos)
Hola,
your guitar was most likely made in late 2003 or early 2004, during the so-called "Music Yo era". To determine which model you have you should post a picture here. There is no log file where we could look up your serial number.
Bernd
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1 hour ago, Rebeccat said:
I have a Steinberger Spirit I’m trying to find the manufacture date on. Only number I can find is 30454 on the back plate. Can you give me any information on my bass? Thanks.
Manufacturing dates for Spirits are often hard to find, not much information is available. However, you're lucky, your bass was listed in the Nashville logs as XT2BK, made on 17 Dec 1993.
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You don't need a conversion kit to use single ball strings on a Synapse. You already have a combined headpiece, which works with double and single ball end strings. Just loosen the 6 screws on the headpiece and clamp the regular strings with them:
If you prefer using double ball end strings, you could get them from Pyramid Strings in Germany. Just send an e-mail to Pyramid@Junger.de. Tell them which strings you need, they make them on order.
Bernd
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4 hours ago, krumi said:
I‘m looking for a replacement arm for the R-Trem, but original spare parts seem hard to find. There are multiple offers, but they are pretty different. Is the arm 6 mm in diameter and got a groove?
Krumi,
6 mm is correct, but there are two different kinds of R-Trem arms. The "standard" version as used on all R-Trems since about 1990 is straight, without any groove or thread. Some very early R-Trems used on Hohner headless guitars need a groove on the arm. See here:
If you're looking for the later standard version, I've got these available:
Bernd
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Yes, 6567 is the serial number. Surrounding serial numbers here show that it most likely has been built in 1989. If it's an XL2"A" (A = active) depends on the EQ. If the tone control has a center detent it's an active HazLabs EQ, and then it's an XL2A. Otherwise it's a passive tone control, which makes it an XL2.
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HeadlessUSA offers LaBella S838 strings on their website. However, as they state on their home page, they're currently on vacation and don't process orders. I guess you'll have to wait until they're back again.
Bernd
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Hi Dave,
good… you should be able to find your answers over there. There are some guys using them. And there's a lot to see and learn about Steinbergers anyway 🙂
Bernd
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Here is possibly the last place to find the answer to your question. If you want opinions from users of these steel posts you might find them in the Steinberger Guitars Facebook group. Or you ask me, if you're interested in answers from the one providing these posts 🙂
Bernd
SERIAL NUMBER SEARCH
in Steinberger
Posted
Stephen,
the N-serials for bolt-on necks were introduced with GPs and XPs and were numbered starting with N0001. So your bass is definitely one of the first 507 bolt-on instruments made. But I'm pretty sure not one of the first 50 XPs… I'd think they made about half GPs, half XPs, so it's more like one of the first 250 or so…
Bernd