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Well, then it looks like returning the bass might be justified. I cannot imagine how frets can get misplaced in an automated process, but there is no other explanation I'd have for that. You should probably be able to measure that, there are tables on the internet listing the correct fret positions. However, I'd really check a different brand of strings first. I don't know what comes with Spirits originally, but I'm pretty sure it's some cheaper "home grown" kind of strings.

Did you check the neck relief? Maybe the truss rod needs some adjustment.

Well, that's not how it should be. There are only two explanations I could think of, which is either still a high (too high) action or frets not being where they belong. Well, sometimes also the strings themselves could make a difference, so maybe replacing the strings with a new set of double ball end strings (e.g. LaBella) might help, too.

On the SteinbergerWorld website Andy Yakubik says this: So you should simply be able to contact EMG and order such a pickup from them. I'd give it a try.

Peter, I think it's a weird way to set intonation, the manual is unclear or confusing there. After setting the action (string height) I always (on guitars and basses) set the intonation by comparing the 12th fret harmonic to the 12th fret fretted note. By setting this correctly I get the results I want. I never tune or intonate to fretted notes on 12 or 24th fret.

As @r2bflash said, tighten this screw to clamp the arm:

That's a treasure box you've got there…

Hi, yes, this is an XP-25, probably made in late 1988 or 1989. They were called "narrow 5-string", as they had the same neck and bridge dimensions as the regular 4-string. This was the standard back then, narrow 5-strings were also available as XL and XM basses. "Wide 5-string" basses were later available as XL25W (very rare and expensive), and as the XQ bass (standard, not so rare). The XP-25 you're showing above seems to be the version with active EMGs (although I cannot clearly see the logo on the EMGs), but it also has the separate removable part of the pickguard above the bridge for battery access. Nice 🙂 Bernd

Yes, this guitar is listed as "GL4SPBK" (P = passive EQ, BK = black), built in April 1991. I've seen a few with 5-way blade switches before (e.g. 6642, 8180, 8713), they have been available this way on custom order. Bernd

The GM was first introduced in late 1986/early 1987. Just check the information here, the serial number list is one source, and I've tried to display the timeline in a kind of "poster", showing which instruments where built when. If you think about replacing the pickups, just remove the complete original harness including pickups as they are, and keep them to be reinstalled when desired. The electronics wouldn't work with passive pickups anyway, so just keep things together and put them in a box for later. This will help to maintain the value, because you can simply restore it to original state.

Yes, the magic happens below the surface and under the knob 😉 Regarding your further questions: you wouldn't see a center notch/detent, but feel it when turning the knob all the way up and down, in about the middle position. Does the tone knob lock in middle position? If not, it's a passive tone and thus a GM-4T. The value… a question I'm usually trying to avoid. But since you're completely new to the Steinberger brand, I'll try it. Yes, all Steinberger USA models are considered "rare", and yours (Newburgh production with bound body before 1992, with a TransTrem) even more. If it is in good and unmodified condition, the current sales value (actual sales prices, not fantasy driven asking prices) is between US$3,000-4,000. Modifications and any damage lower the value, of course. Steinberger as a company doesn't exist any longer, so they cannot do any modifications for you. There are some luthiers working on Steinbergers and can do customizations, but they are expensive. HeadlessUSA comes to mind, with Jeff Babicz (a former Steinberger employee) doing the actual work, but there you'll pay about $1,000 just for a basic cleaning, setup and restoration job (including replacement of some standard TransTrem components like bearings etc.). Jeff does good work, but the pricing scheme is really, really high. Another really good luthier for Steinbergers is Peekamoose/Paul Schwartz. Great work, but also not cheap. Question is: which kind of modification do you have in mind? And do you still want to do it, if this will lower the value (if an irreversible modification)?

Yes, you've got a volume pot(entiometer), closer to the Steinberger logo, and a tone pot(entiomenter), closer to the back. How would you call it?

This is a Steinberger GM-4T, made in Newburgh 1990/91. The "4" in the designation describes the H-S-S pickup configuration, the "T" stands for the TransTrem. Yes, this guitar has active EMGs (most likely 85-SA-SA) as a standard, and if the tone pot has a center notch it also has an active HazLabs EQ. In that case it would be a GM-4TA, with the "A" describing the additional active EQ. Bernd

A GM came with either the TransTrem or the S-Trem, and for those it had a non-symmetrical tremolo routing. That's the main difference which you can spot on the first glimpse. Additionally the early GMs (Newburgh) came with a binding, and in most cases active EMGs (which can of course be replaced, and there were GMs with passive pickups, too). You can get a good overview of "what is what" by looking at the old catalogs here, e.g. 1986/87 (bound GMs) or 1989 (without binding). By the way, the designation "GM4R" is a made up name used by Ed Roman who regularly butchered GM bodies to take up R-Trems and sold this as "original Steinberger", which it never was. Don't worry, that's not what you have. You just have a refinished GR-4R.

Joseph, if you'd show some pictures here we'd be able to tell you what you have. The serial number points to a manufacturing date in late 1990 or early 1991. Bernd

+1 Pickups, knobs, the second strap button, and the finish are not original. The missing logo tells that, and silver has never been a regular finish option. Just used on a few factory custom models, and this is not one of them.

You don't have to take the neck off. If the serial is there, it's above the body, right at the visible "beginning" of the neck outside of the neck pocket.

Hmmm… I've never seen a serial like this (but other serials carved into the electronics cover). I've got a similar GU (Korean made), which has the serial stamped on the back of the neck heel, just above the body. You don't have a number there?

If there's ANY chance to give you the information you've requested, it will be based on the serial number of this instrument. Which is missing from your info about the guitar…

Your attached images are twice the same pic. It's the black Spirit GT Pro Deluxe, as for example shown on the MusicYo website in 2004: http://web.archive.org/web/20040408233639/http://www.musicyo.com/product_specs.asp?pf_id=044 There is no database for Spirit serial numbers, so it's not possible to date it from the serial shown. However, I'd put it into the mid/late 1990ies. Bernd

No, you won't see anything about the model when removing the neck. If you want to know what model you (or your friend) have, just post a pic here, and the serial number which can be found on the lower side of the neck heel.

Here you go… Alternatively from the store (not ebay)

Jeremy, maybe you're thinking to complicated. If this is an on-on-on switch you won't need any jumpers on the switch. Here you can see the wiring of a GM4 with a HazLabs board, which is correct for your guitar too, except the 5-way switch which is your toggle switch instead. On this toggle switch, simply solder the white wires like this: Neck PU: top left HazLabs input: middle left Bridge PU: bottom left The right side of the switch remains unused. Bernd

Hi Ferréol, these buttons have been on my list of "to-do things" for a while. I've now taken the dimensions and will have a couple of them made (probably not black, though). This may take two weeks or so, but you can send me an e-mail (via my website) for information on when and how to get one. Bernd

I'm not aware of any Steinberger/Spirit made with a mahogany body. Current specs say maple neck and basswood body. Apart from that I think current Spirits are made in Indonesia, if I recall correctly. So whatever you can buy in China and has a mahogany body sounds like a fake to me.