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Paul K

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About Paul K

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  1. Hey Dave Me and the bass are doing well. A whole lot of positive comments at gigs; it seems some people can't even figure out how to tune these things. The tone and playability are top notch, but I'd sure like to have the neck just a little bit straighter. I've got the stock flatwounds on the E and A strings, groundwounds on the D,G,C strings; lots of whump on the bottom, but still some snap on top. The no-headstock thing has been a godsend; it's just easier to maneuver on a crowded stage. And I really, really dig the gig bag and how easy it is to toss into the car. I might try some lighter strings instead of tweaking the truss rod again. I suppose I should have gone all out on the truss rod before my 45 day "no questions asked" Musician's Friend warranty was up. But I kind of wanted the bass for keeps, not just for mailing to and from the store. Hindsight says I should have put in a little more coin and bought a Moses Vertical Jump bass simply because of the likelihood of better customer support. (I kind of jumped on the Synapse because M.F. was having a sale, and this bass never goes on sale, and Gibson's reply to my e-mail said that the fretless version had been discontinued. So I kind of jumped on this bass before they ran out of 'em....) Also, the bass and treble on the Synapse don't really do much. They're very subtle; I like the ones on my Cort Curbow with the Bart's better. The piezo has been useless so far, but I haven't played any jazz gigs in a while. I was kind of surprised that I had to cut the nut of the Synapse down quite a bit. I was expecting that to come right out of the box set up properly. But the neck has been very stable, which was one of my primary goals; most all of my other basses require monthly truss rod adjustments, which was getting to be kind of a drag. Not this one; it's rock solid. Am I the only person who feels an electric bass guitar shouldn't play like a damn upright???? Peace Paul K
  2. By G.C., I meant Guitar Center (not Gibson Corporation). The gave me my money back under warranty. It was a used bass, and the unresponsive truss rod might have been why the fella traded it in. I bought a new one (musician's friend had a great sale), and I brought it to a local guitar shop who used to be Steinberger certified. He used a straight edge, two blocks, and a clamp to really, really really straighten (even back-bow the neck) while he tightened the truss rod. He said it moved smooth and easy. I also took some nut files to the nut end. The fretless nut is still a whole lot too high. Now it's playing very well. Sorry to hear of all the problems that ya'll have had. What can you do to this bass after a truss rod snaps? Can the fretboard be removed for a truss rod replacement??
  3. If the hex screw head is stripped, just put a drop of superglue onto the hex wrench head and set it into the stripped screw. After the glue has set, unscrew as usual. Replace it with a new part. Yup. THe metal on the hex screws is way soft. I've had trouble with the ones at the headpiece that hold the non-double ball end strings into place.
  4. If you read the Synapse thread about truss rod woes, you know I sent that Synapse back. Got a brand new one today. FWIW, they ship with flats on the fretless model. According to Gibson, the fretless model is discontinued, so get'em while there are still a few around. Don't know about the other Synapse models.
  5. ......nevermind, baby. SNAP! The truss rod is in two pieces. You should see the relief now...... Will call G.C. tomorrow.......(sigh....)
  6. I dunno what they ship with, but expect it's roundwounds since both used ones I've played had rounds on it. (I bought the second one....) I've re-strung with single ball strings on my Synapse and on my Hohner headless ( I had bought the music yo string adapter while they still had them awhile back). It's easy to do, and easier with the Synapse since you can trim the string so that the sharp ends don't poke out. More important is that string saddle height isn't adjustable on each string. Not an issue unless you want to use a low B string with a tapered end; they'd all have to be from a tapered set or your B string will be too low. Tapewounds. I had a set awhile back, and the guage was too floppy. I researched them recently on juststrings.com and the carvin site. IIR, they come from two companies; buy the one with the heavier guage which is, I think, LaBella. They recently changed the gauge of their C strings from a wimpy .030 or .027 to a decent .037. If you buy a C string, instead of a B, make sure it's the newer stock of the thicker guage. The nylon doesn't add as much mass as a normal metal outer winding does, so the thicker guage is way needed, or else you need to play with a really, really light touch. They're very hip, though, since your fingertips won't hurt after a 4 hour gig. Fretless is the way to go. The side dots at every fret on the Synapse is, IMHO, way too confusing. I blacked out all but the usual 3-5-7-9-12 fret dots. But that's just me. Liness fretless have the side dots at the fret instead of between, so are more useful at-a-glance. Good luck with it! Peace Paul K
  7. Ladies and Gentlemen I bought a gently used fretless Synapse, and the neck has a fair amount too much relief for my taste since I like them almost flat. I've lots of experience adjusting wood bass necks, but this is my first graphite one. I've given the truss rod a couple four tweaks (half turn in all over two days), tightening the hex while flexing the neck straight so the strings are flopped against the fretboard. But no change at all yet in the amount of relief; not a drop. THe web page threatens doom and gloom for us do-it-yourselfers attempting this adjustment. I know that since the neck is a fair bit striffer than the wood I'm accustomed to adjusting, the truss rod will have to push a fair bit harder to straighten the neck out, and probably just needs a few (or many) more tweaks over the next week. And i know that the truss rod just holds the neck in place but isn't really designed to "pull" it straight, which is why I stress the neck straight before tightening the hex nut. But I need reassurance. My hex key fits just right, and the nut moves with effort, but moves smoothly and predictably. Anything else I need to know? Should I maybe loosen and remove the nut all the way and squirt some lubricant onto the truss rod threads? Help me Obi-Wan, you're my only hope. Ah...but I'm digging the sound so far. Can't wait till I get the strings close enough for a decent mwaaaaa. Peace Paul K
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