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About Golem

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  1. I don't have a T-bird to make a definite comparison, but I'd expect the reach on a Bird to be far greater than the Fender, having almost nothing to do with the extra half inch, tho ... just the lack of a top horn on the Bird should lead to a noticably longer reach, even if the Gibby scale were a half inch shorter than the Fender. `
  2. OKeedokee .... now THAT is a clear description. Your hardware is intact, not damaged, and you've felt the nut hitting the limit of the threaded section of the rod. You gotta back that nut away from the limit that it has currently run into .... and yet still provide it a means to exert force against the surface behind it. How-to: You can add a washer behind the rod nut. Usually, it requires an unusual washer, cuz the rod diameter is such that a washer that will drop over the rod is generally too large at the outside diameter for the clearance available in the access socket to the rod nut. IOW you need a washer whose outer diameter is not very much bigger than it's inside diameter [meaning, the hole]. A thicker than typical washer is also recommended. Drill a hole in a penny, and grind down the outer diameter to allow it to fit down into the hole. It might be a square sided hole, and so you needn't make the outer shape round .... or it may need to be round. You look at the access socket and you see what shape will work. Pennies are just soft zinc under the copper plating, very easy to shape. When a rod is maxed out like yours is, it's not that the rod can't handle any more load [tension]. It's just that the nut has 'found' the limit of the the threads on the rod and is up against the solid, non-threaded, main section of the rod. The washer [really a spacer in htis application] moves the nut away from the end of the threads, which typically adds about 1.5 more avaialbe turns. No worry about tension. A rod can very well deal with a string set like yours, in terms of ability to handle tension. It's not that your truss rod is at its torsional limit. It's just that there's not quite enuf wood behind it to allow it to do it's job before running out of travel along the threads. The penny can be put in a vise or a strong pliers, and shaped with the simplest handheld power tools, just a drill and grinding wheel or cutting wheel. The result can be uglee, since it will be hidden from view. It just hasta be functional as a spacer. `
  3. Just jam a piece of yarn or such up against the nut, under the strings and re-check your intonation. I do it all the time, even without a brass nut. I do hae some brass ones, but I really don't like them. If I didn't know the yarn trick, I'd carve wooden ones.
  4. ` Agree, and wanna add that any small differences in PUs, if the PU is up against the neck like that, are pretty much smothered by the effect of PU location. It's not the mudbucker's design making it sound like that. I had a Kramer that someone has substituted a mudbucker for the P-PU in the P-PU spot. It was waaaaay funky and not muddy at all. OK, I'm sure it was less middy than a P-PU, but muddy ? NO way. `
  5. ` Uhmmnnn .... considering the wording of the thread title, maybe I shoulda started with basics ? A neck with relief is the opposite conditon of a too-flat neck. No offence intended, but unless the title is mis-worded, your take on how to adjust a neck is exactly backwards. To flatten a neck, thus reducing relief, one tightens the truss rod. Relief is not simply "action height" [altho it will affect that, too]. Relief is the slight curve in the neck that is necessary to prevent the string from buzzing against the fret that is one fret sharper than the fret you are fretting. Action height is adjusted at the bridge. Relief must be adjusted via the truss rod. Relief adjustment is normally necessary for only two reasons: changes in seasons, or a change in string tension [different guage or nonstandard tuning]. A third reason is simply dissatisfaction with as-delivered relief [very common]. I cannot imagine any other reasons. `
  6. Depends on what you're really saying .... Won't budge, cuz you've tightened it as far as it goes ? No wonder you have too little relief. Max tightening of the rod is how you flatten a neck ... so just back it off. OR .... Won't budge cuz it's seized, frozen, etc ? Try a lotta WD40, and then carefully try to back it off. Usually, the nut is brass and rod is steel, so seizure from corrosion is nearly impossible. Only if the threads are quite damaged, usually via cross threading, would a nut seize on the threaded rod. If you bought it new, or if you know it used to work OK, and you're sure it's not cross threaded etc, then the "siezure" can be simply the nut againstst the surface behind it, but [fortunately] not a seizure of the threading. To free a nut from the surface behind it, use WD40 and just try rocking it back and forth [rotationally] about 1/16 turn. If the nut is stuck cuz it's max tightened [which would agree with the stated lack of relief] .... and it's REALLY not budging cuzza the pressure involved in keeping the neck so flat, then loosen the strings, lay the neck face down supported only at the heal and near the nut. Now, if your assistant applied moderate pressure to the back of the nek, near the middle, that pressure is doing the same job as a maxed out, too-tight truss rod .... thus your assistant is now unloading some of thepressure in the truss rod .... which makes it safer and easier to unstick the nut from the surface behind it. If you're not cool with the feel of this stuff ["feel" is meant literally], get some experienced help. `
  7. It's extremely normal, if you mean 2 pieces, left and right, with a center seam. Extremely expensive basses often are split left and right, and if the back side is a different wood from the front, it could be 4 pieces. Has it occured to you that a neck-thru ax has seperate left and right halves glued to the center beam ? There's nothing superior about a 1 piece body except for appearance, if the grain is enhanced .... but book matched halves are also great looking. `
  8. ` Job mkt doesn't do much in mid-holiday-season. We shall see what the new year hold/brings/offers. I'm hiding out tonite. I don't go out on the ESN's [extra stoopid nites] unless I'm paid to do so. This is my first New Year eve with no gig since about 7 or 8 yrs ago. `
  9. ` Jeeez B-H ..... You made the funny yourownself. I was just pointing it out ! About you declaring that your Alembic Epic has "Epic John Antwhistle tone". `
  10. ` ` Same here. The Belt. Heavy handed, and with a definite message of anger. We reconciled later, as adults. It very much felt, to me, as if it was my father who had, at last, grown up. But before that all he did was teach me to despise authority. Looking back, I think he was not angry at me personally, but angry at having become a parent. So he took it out on the "cause" of his "condition". Given the human proclivity toward bending rules, and even outright corruption, when a youngster is raised to doubt and despise authority figures [and institutions], that youngster will NOT be 'cured' by his entry into the adult world. Au contraire, he will notice the corrupt adults more than he will notice the decent adults ... we all choose to re-enforce what we already know and what we already are. IOW, show your kid the bad side of human nature and your kids will become adults who mainly continue to see it that way. I can say that by experience, altho limited to a small "survey sample" [my household]. I'd like to say the other side of the coin is equally true, that if you show them the positive side, it will 'color their vision' as adults. Firstly, I'm not one who can say that, not by experience, cuz I was brought up negative. Secondly, being negative and cynical as I am, I fear that TOO MUCH pure positivity in childhood would raise a kid into an adult who is naive and vulnerable. I can only look at my own upbringing. I have no kids of my own to "experiment" on. That is a definite choice of mine. I very much felt I was raised and conditioned to be the worst possible candidate for parenthood. So. I play music and make peeps dance, and when they go home and fuque, I hope most of them are ready to be decent parents. Thaz the limit of my "involvement" in parenting. `
  11. ` ` Looky here, about the 7th item down on the page, altho items move downward as new ones are added at the top. There's Weber 12's just a coupla items below the Weber "Mass" attenuator. http://www.chrisguitars.com/spkrs-weber-silverbell-16-pair.jpg http://www.chrisguitars.com/ Chris is local, I've dealt with him repeatedly over the past 10 yr. He can seem kinda grumpy but don't be put off by that. He's knowledgeable and honest, and he's got a clean pair of 30W Webers you wanna check out .... He's local to me, but he ships everywhere. `
  12. ` ` You do realize that punning online is a Crime Against Urbanity ? `
  13. ` When you buy a pepper mill in Macys or Walmart there is no "list price" vs "discount price" on it. But, this is Geetar Centaur, so .... I wonder what they'll charge for the "Play Hard - You're Covered" extended warrantee on this on. Personally, I think the idea has merit ! But, if I'm gonna get me such a tool, I'd rather get it from LP, which, for yoose geetards, is NOT "Les Paul". It's Latin Percussion. I'd want a Salsa Grinder .... one that calls me "Poppy" ;-) `
  14. ` ` Check out the Dave Wendler 'Magpi' system @ http://www.electrocoustic.com/products.html The MagPi system uses a humbucker to buffer a piezo. He embeds a piezo PU into a wooden floating bridge, and the windings in the humbucker act as the buffer so no battery powered circuit is needed. The humbugger need not sound great, cuz thaz not it's job in his system. No single coil PU will do, however. Gotta be a HB. His prices are reasonable and there are plenty of sound samples on his website. IIRC, he can also work with an existing piezo PU in a guitar, thus not requiring his custom made bridge. Also, there's tone magic in the combining of humbugger and piezo, so even a crappy HB can blend signals with the piezo can be amazing. Therefore, he provides a blend control [mag+piezo]. I play a Wendler bass in an acoustic string band. I'm the only player thaz amped, and the other 3 players [fiddle, guitar, mandolin] really dig the sound. It just fits right in, very acoustic. `
  15. ` OK so you've heard them and seen them on stage. Ever strap one on ? That alone could settle the whole issue .... `
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