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About Beate

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  1. I finally decided to do the mod. The EB-11 (Les Paul Junior DC) will probably not become a very collectible instrument, especially as a player. Despite of that is is so good - it is actually better than the SG basses - that it deserves better pickups. Even to move the pickup a tad away from the neck which allows me to leave the wood adjacent to the neck joint intact. Here the bass with a real mudbucker - the LowZ version from Epiphone with some improvements; it has a lot more treble than the old mudbucker but it still has its vibe, and it can easily be darkened. A picture can be seen here: https://www.gitarrebassbau.de/download/file.php?id=66085&mode=view
  2. Hi, i would like to put a (modified) Epiphone sidewinder pickup originating from an Epi EB-3 into a Gibson bass, in this case the Les Paul Junior DC. The bass is modified - Hipshot bridge, better bridge pickup, different knobs, different electronics and even something different in the neck position - but until now i kept the original parts and did not touch the wood in order to be able co convert it back. But now a want to give it a better neck pickup. I have heavily modded a spare mudbucker form an EPI EB-3 (added some neodymium magnets and replaced the pole screws by an iron bar in 3 of those pickups, sounds great and a lot better than the stock TBPlus). Unfortunately the pickup is larger than the stock pickup: its magnets are outside the base plate (which by itself has the same size as the base plate of the TBPlus). In order to install that pickup i would widen the cavity toward the neck as well toward the bridge. The pickup covers of the Gibsons and the Epis are the same size, so that would not be an obstacle. Or leave the neck side intact an place the PU about 7-8 mm closer to the bridge. This would require filling and re-drilling the holes of the cover. It would even give me the possibility to extend the fingerboard a bit and install a 21st fret which i sometimes would like to have. Technically not too difficult - i have already built a few instruments, and i am confident it would come out nicely. But: These changes cannot be reverted any more. And they would alter the body visibly and irreversibly. So what Do You think? Would the Les Paul Junior DC bass as a player be so collectible that this would make it worthless over the long time.?
  3. You might also try out the following strings: GHS pressure wounds. Yes, thin, but really good and over all balanced on my Les Paul Junior DC (EB-11) GHS Brite Flats: warm, extremely punchy, powerful tone. Great on both my EB-11 and (currently) on one of my Epiphone 1960s EB-3. With these strings the bass will be a really powerfull hardrock axe cutting though "everything". LaBella Gold White Tapes: warm, really musical tone, and sufficient punch if needed. My favorites for solo/duo playing. Pyramid Nickel Wounds (45-105): nice pure nickels good for "everything". If You like roundwounds. Pyramid Black Nylons: warm, woody, complex acoustic tone. Very peculiar and different from any other kind of nylon wound string. Love it or hate it...
  4. The problem still persists. The workaround works - again, even that did not work in the past.
  5. I would rather love improved versions of those. Early 60s body, of course. But a volute to strengthen the transition to the headstock. A 2 point hipshot supertone bridge. The mudbucker wired in parallel instead in series - it would then have 7.5 kOhm and would sound a tad more lively without losing its tone. A minihumbucker with two Alnico blades and a total impedance of 7.5 kOhm (i have two custom pickups of this type - great....) and in the same position as with the SG/EB-11 basses. These pickups system is muck better balanced than the original one. Otherwise the old electronics, of course. Maybe an additional push-push pot providing a switchable C of 1-1.5 nF to the bridge pickup. And Schaller Tuners - M4 as in the 70s or even better the more lightweight M4-2000 which look really cool on SG shaped basses. BTW: i have all these features in my basses. Not everything in one single instrument, unfortunately. But they all come close.
  6. The bridge pickup also says nothing (in contrast to the pickup used in the Epiphone EB-3). I checked the pickup of my EB-11 (Les Paul Junior DC).
  7. Beate

    Nylon Strings

    The look identical except the length. BTW: there is something i do not like on the Daddario tapes: if You play them hard, the tone is not "punchy" anymore - there seems to be a fairly thin steel string below the Nylon windings. Dependent on the band context they might be too dark. There is a whole world of modern tapewound strings with different properties: Fender - more mid emphasis, low price. Although long scale i could successfully use them on a short scale bass with *thin* tuning pegs. LaBella - thicker than the Daddarios, more tension, more "organic" sound. Pyramid - woody, less sustain. Closest to the tone of a double bass of all black tapes. Like the ETB92, these strings last "forever". My favorites on my acoustic bass and on my fretless Flying V interpretation. In order to get a more versatile sound from one of my basses i ordered LaBella Gold White Nylons from bassstringsonline. I hope they will arrive in a reasonable time here in Germany.
  8. Back to the pickups. Maybe You ask Curtis Novak if he ever encountered an RD Artist humbucker. Otherwise You ave a lot of information on the PUs to make an intelligent guess: The dimensions include the size of the ears, don't they? If yes, the actual pickup might have just the size of a guitar humbucker. That can be easily tested, and You can find black plastic covers, but only with 2 screws on each side. Now the construction: humbuckers usually have two coils in series, yielding a DC resistance of 3.3-3.4 kOhms per coil. In connection with the thickness of the wire (AWG 42?), an experienced pickup maker can make reasonable guess on the coils (that might indeed simply be humbucker coils taken from the normal guitar production). But 13.2 kOhms per coil and AWG43 connected in parallel are also possible, yet less probably than the first. Now to the magnets: within the footprint of a guitar humbucker, it is possible to either use a normal guitar humbucker, i.e. one of those relatively bright sounding T-Tops of that time (some of which have just these 6.6-6.8 kOhms... and guitar humbuckers make a really good job as bass pickups, especially those bright sounding T-Tops). On the other hand the pickups might be "thunderbucker"-alike, i.e. the magnets are used as blades in the bobbins. (Or they might be sidewinders, but it does not look as if that was is the case.) If You do not insist on originality, either construction will lead to a great tone. I am actually using thunderbucker-alike pickups in those black guitar humbucker covers on the shortscale RD interpretation i built, and they are great.
  9. Googling leeds to a thread somewhere else almost 4 years old: http://forum.reverendguitars.com/topic10979.html But there is a relatively simple path to a custom bass: try to get hands on a used cheap (i.e. worn) SG bass. Replace the minihumbucker by something else, maybe a MM style pickup (the minhumbucker is almost in the MM-position.). Maybe a bit closer to the neck. Or something else Your son likes. Alternatively a Bisonic or a pair of Bisonics - quite recently Guild remakes them and sells them separately for a fair price. Even with this mod the cost of the SG bass should remain within the Your limit. (BTW: a standard PAF like humbucker with a cover hiding the poles will also sound great in this position - it should not be too mellow otherwise it would be a bit bassy. And it requires 500 k pots to sound well.
  10. Yes, i am. Mostly - every succesfull mod gives ideas for further improvement. Meanwile i have raised the pickups by 1/2 mm - a lot more powerful. (the third pickup is a bit silent). BTW: a new baby is born. Small, just 1.5 cm longer than my SG guitar, nevertheless full 30" scale, 20 frets, laminated beech. Body alder. Outer body contour taken from an Epiphone EB-3, but wider cutaways and wider bevels. Tuners: Schaller m4-2000. Bridge Hipshot supertone. Pickups: guitar humbuckers (ceramic magnet, non adjustable steel poles). Electrics: 3-Way (in future 4 way switch, vol, tone). For now. Pickup positions: bridge at 90% (sting ray like), neck same as Epi EB3. The Epi has 22 frets and a sidewinder, so there remains some space between pickup and fingerboard - for the good. Sound: really powerful, everything You would expect from an SG bass. The Gibson SG and EB-11basses with the original pickups are toys against that instrument. A bit of tweaking the electronics and this is what any Gibson bass should be. IMHO, of course.
  11. Well here the EB-11 (Les Paul Junior DC) in action - it is my main bass for the voice & bass duo project. I must be playing "Child In Time"...
  12. But ordering a custom minihumbucker is easier than a routing job. I replaced the mini of my EB-11 by something roughly resembling the original T-Bird pickups: two coils with blades from Alnico, overwound to 7.5 kOhms each coil, and possibly some fine tuning of the resonance peak. I would possibly go for a real mudbucker clone with 15 kOhms per coil, maybe ceramic magnets but a 6x6 mm steel bar instead of the pole pieces and that wired in parallel (not in series). And then a mini like the one described above - great, and both PUs play together nicely even in parallel. That would be the rebirth of the EB3 without its disadvantages.
  13. Thanks. It is still a work in progress, as the analogous modification of my Epiphone 1960s EB-3 is, but i hope that most of the large changes has been done and only some fine tuning remains. But as You know, the final 10% makeup 90% of the work. That bass actually has a potential which can only partially be used with the original setup. In direct comparison i found the EB-11 superior to its cousin, the SG bass - more punch, esspecially in the lows. My goal is to be able to have a really wide range of tones in one instrument - punchy rock tone with good attack, the deep and fat tone of a real mudbucker for vintage rock sounds (cream, stones, ...), and in addition this bell like yet very clear and crisp acoustic tone offered by all those D'Armond/ Bisonic / P90-alike pickups even in the extreme neck position. Maybe even getting a sound suitable for occasional slapping (the tone pot needs to be made switchable for this) - and all that using string like the GHS Brite Flats, which look and sound great on this bass. All that easily and reproducably accessible.
  14. Here some internals of my modified EB-11: The bridge pickup is a custom Thunderbucker-like mini humbucker with 15 kOhms and Alnico magnets as blades. In the neck position there are two pickups under the large cover: a stacked Neodymium-humbucker, also with a blade, and a more 7ender-like split coil humbucker (SC) with fat Alnico rods. You also see the pickup selector - a 4 position switch: SC + 10 nF, Neo with lowcut filter, SC+Bridge, Bridge. The volume has a fairly elaborate treble bleed circuit which almost retains the sound of the pot in max position.
  15. Hi I already told You in bassic that i am probably able to help You out with the capacitors. My only problem is lack of time to do the resoldering - three bass amps are in the waiting queue. Other sources should be Conrad - i don't know if there is one in WI but there are shops in MZ and in F. And in DA there is another electronics store which i cannot imagine to carry such a standard part. If You prefer mail order, a source without minimum limit on their orders is http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/Kondensatoren/Cornell-Dubilier-Polyester-DME:::31_477.html. Musikding also has them in their web store (i have put the 68 nF version of those in my EB-11 and am satisfied with the quality). Tube town also has rotary switches in good quality that will fit into the bass according to the 2nd example in Cadfael's collection of bass circuitries (an again - i should have one of those surplus.).
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