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Parabar

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Everything posted by Parabar

  1. Depending on what pickups you replace them with, it could make a little or a lot of difference. The switches and pots are unlikely to make much difference in tone; replacing them would be more for functional improvements, for example if you wanted a different taper on the volume or tone pots. My Epiphone Lucille is completely stock, and I've found no need to replace anything on it.
  2. What kind of amp are you using? I have a couple of late-90's Epiphones with stock humbuckers and also a couple of semi-hollow guitars made by Samick (who made the Sheratons in that era), and have not experienced the unwanted breakup and muddiness you describe.
  3. The Emperor Thinline has a bridge mounted directly to the top, rather than on a wooden base as the full depth one has. Therefore you need a Bigsby B-7, B-70 or B-700 with the tension bar. This model was specifically designed for thinline electrics with a bridge mounted to the top. The other models with no tension bar will not have sufficient break angle. Here's a pic of the style you need:
  4. Intonation issues are almost always more to do with the nut slots or bridge slots being too tight and binding the strings. It's very rare for the tuning machines to be at fault.
  5. Natural or not, my D'Angelico EXL1 is the most beautiful guitar I've ever seen.
  6. I own a 2001 Samick-made Joe Pass Emperor II, and it is one of my favorite guitars ever. I have played a few others --- both pre-Joe Pass and Joe Pass models --- and the only significant differences were the location of the pickup selector switch. A few years ago I saw a more recent Chinese made Joe Pass in a local Guitar Center, and was disappointed to see the body had much less of an arched top than any of the ones I was familiar with --- cost-cutting measures, no doubt. Nonetheless, the new ProBucker pickups are very good, and the coil-splitting features on the newer Pro models are very appealing. I haven't tried a Joe Pass Pro, but have tested the newer pickups and switching on a recent Sheraton, and was favorably impressed. That said, I have no plans to replace the pickups in my Joe Pass, as I am able to get all the sounds I want from it by adjusting my amp settings. I have not been at all impressed with the Epiphone ES-175 model. It's cutaway shape is wrong and unappealing, and the f-holes look cheap. Tonally and ergonomically, all of the Emperor II's I've played (Joe Pass or otherwise) have been better guitars, and I prefer the original Joe Pass/Emperor II design to the second-rate imitation ES-175. I don't understand why they didn't at least get the shape right, as the Epiphone Sorrentos from the 90's have it exactly accurate. If I were in your shoes, I would try to get my hands on one of the newer Pro models. If I was happy with the sound, action and feel, I'd probably go with it to have the versatility of the coil split. If not, I'd look for an older Samick made one, as they seem to have the most consistent quality and turn up fairly regularly used at decent prices.
  7. I changed the knobs to pearl-tipped Tele style knobs. Matches the fingerboard inlays:
  8. There are also Wildkats in Sunrise Orange out there that turn up every so often.
  9. I've had mine for quite a few years now and I like it a lot --- great tone, comfortable to play. However it's not radically different from my Casino, so if I was hard up for cash I'd consider selling it. In fact, a few years back I was in a dodgy cash situation so I put this up for sale along with another guitar, an amp, and some accessories. The other guitar sold, as well as the amp and some accessories, but not the Sorrento, which I'm happy about, since the other things that sold got me through the lean times. Here's a picture: Another thing I like about it is the correct (and aesthetically pleasing) body, cutaway and f-hole shape. The more recent re-issues --- as well as the Epi ES-175 --- look oddly misshapen by comparison.
  10. It's a really fun guitar to play. The action is even and smooth, and the pickups are brighter and crisper than the humbuckers I have on similar guitars --- somewhere between a typical Gibson/Epiphone humbucker and a Gretsch Filtertron. It's even nicer because it only cost $275 brand new with hardshell case. A pawn shop in the midwest had several of them on eBay a few years ago --- for that price I took a chance and I'm glad I did.
  11. I find it kinda amusing when someone who hasn't actually seen or played certain guitars wants to argue with someone who has. Like a Chihuahua yapping his head off at a Rottweiler on the other side of the fence. Whaddaya gonna do?
  12. I just found the pics online, so not sure what year. I've seen flamed Sheratons like that before (love that dark burst!), and they are NOT photo-flame, but actual veneers. The Matsumoku Sheratons and Emperors were very high-quality instruments --- some would say on a par with the Elitist series --- so they didn't cut corners and costs with photo-flames and such like. If you do a Google Advanced Image Search for "Matsumoku Sheraton," you may find more details. I have a Karera thinline semi-hollow whose model number is SH-800-AN. The AN stands for Antique Natural, but I'm convinced this was made by Peerless using Sheraton specs (the "SH" in the model name) Notice the headstock logo which somewhat resembles a letter "P" for Peerless. This guitar is also all real wood veneers, including the pickguard, which I like a lot.
  13. A Matsumoku Sheraton like yours is a very high quality quitar to begin with. Unless the tuners are actually worn out, the tuning instability is more likely to do with either the nut or bridge slots binding the strings somewhat. A little graphite, nut sauce or filing by a competent luthier should solve the problem --- unless, as I mentioned, the tuners themselves have worn to the point they no longer grip properly. This is pretty rare.
  14. Hi Ben --- Your guitar is definitely a Matsumoku-built Emperor Thinline (that's the "T" at the end of the model number). As you suspected, the original Frequensator tailpiece has been replaced. These were made through the 80's so pinpointing the exact year isn't easy, but they are very high-quality guitars. Many rank them comparably to the Elitist series, and they have sold recently on eBay for over $1,000 Congratulations on a great guitar -- hope you enjoy it!
  15. My Wildkat has a neck that feels wider, but not too thick ... very comfy. You might also try an Epiphone Lucille. They have chunky necks, per B.B. King's preference, and can get very similar tones to an LP.
  16. Those were the epitome of "cheap Japanese guitars" in the 70's, with all the (well-deserved) contempt that term implies.
  17. Modifying an existing headstock would be time-consuming and likely would only even look good if you had a professional woodworker do it. It would be costly, do nothing for the guitar's function, and would radically reduce its resale value. If it bothers you that much aesthetically, sell the guitar and get something you like better. Cutting down the headstock on an Epi is a money-losing proposition no matter how you go about it.
  18. Replacing the nut should be easy --- you can find any number of replacements online depending on your preferred material --- bone, Tusq, etc. --- although you may need to trim it for proper fit, and cut your own slots or have a luthier do it. Bridge saddles can be tricky --- make sure you measure so the replacements will fit properly.
  19. What cons???? '93 Sheris were made in Korea's Samick factory, which has a reputation for high quality. The Sheraton is a beautifully made and versatile instrument --- between the guitar's controls and those on your amp, you can get a variety of sounds out of it. Playability is usually excellent, as long as the guitar is set up properly. Enjoy the heck out of it!
  20. Epiphone Les Paul Ultras are weight-relieved. Heavily chambered, in fact ---- like so:
  21. Some of the early Chinese Epi's had inconsistent quality control, but they've gotten a LOT better in recent years. More disappointing is that the specs on many models have been changed, so while they're being made well, with good materials, the designs themselves have declined since the 90's/early oughts. For example, the Joe Pass now has a MUCH less pronounced arch to the top and back and the shape has been squared off a bit in places, the ES-175 has an asymmetrical cutaway bout, and the SG's (which used to be made of two or three pieces of spliced solid wood) now have a veneer top over lower quality wood, usually more pieces.
  22. While the overall quality control of Chinese Epiphones has improved in recent years and become much more consistent, aside from a few particular models (like the '61 reissues), the specs have clearly been changed for the worse. I recently saw a newer Joe Pass model in a store, and it was not even close to my 2001 Samick. The top had barely any arch at all, and the shape was more squared off from the graceful curves of my Samick. F-holes on many models have been widened, probably to make installation of the wiring harness easier, but they look oddly distorted to my eyes. Woods and finishes are clearly of lower quality as well, though the build quality seems pretty decent. The bottom line is --- it's all about the bottom line. The Qingdao factory was set up so that Epiphone guitars could be made less expensively --- not so they could be made better. Many of the designs have been compromised to that end, so I seriously doubt that the standard Chinese models will eclipse the Korean ones when they are apples-to-apples comparisons. The specialty models that were never made in Korea are a different story --- some of those may become more desirable to collectors as they become less available.
  23. Re: Your comment "Live long and prosper!"

    I intend to do just that! (But we all know life can be contrary sometimes.) Best to you too, my friend!

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