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Everything posted by tosom

  1. Custom, means it is customizable? I mean, i am not into high gain, more into medium, and EMGs are extra high gain. Custom does it mean only color changes? Anyone bringing some light to this topic?
  2. tosom

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    I think that I understand you problem: You adjust everything bla bla bla F# stays in perfect tune, D the same but then you go back to standard E and it's no perfect tunning or not even close. and F and D# are closer but not perfect. I never tried but I'm pretty sure that the screw below the tuners are the main thing. I think that the little one unlocks the big one (like when adjusting action and octavage). So you loose it. And then if you look what's there below the big screw, there is a stair (the one that let the guitar get locked in other tunes... That mean something I think (and it's not on the uncomplete manual of the ZT3, neither in the Ned's vids, suspicious...) I think that adjusts the stair so you can get tuned in every half tune. I hope I'm right I never done it because i'm afraid not to be right and lazy to do so. But the chances of me being right are really high I think. I hope that the problem is resolved. And I'm waiting for some feedback. Thanks!
  3. hahhaha funny guy xD I did it! :P As you can see I'm the autor of this manual xD Glad to see someone uses it! But As I said there I haven't tried yet if it works for this or not. It's a topic no-one seems to reply because it's not in the original manual those gibson guys are laughing at us for sure.
  4. I've been asking myself What's the use of those two screws. I suppose that they are for adjusting the transpose element in tune. the superior screw unlocks and the one below inside the square adjusts. Any one could tell me if am I right or wrong? I wouldn't like to break the bridge it would be gross. Then how works in each direction? Thanks
  5. haha cool, My TT3 looks exactly the same! all the positions!
  6. You talk truths. My ZT3 arrived with no previous set up of the trus rod and the action was really high (it was unpleasing to play it as it was). I don't know if it was the guitar or the pick ups, but zero sustain. The inside wires bad solded (but they worked correctly). The input of the jack is really unstable, the thread of the input is always falling. The little hex key of the guitar is too little for the knob. The locker of the one-ball strings can't hold the string and it slides down. The zer fret is really soft (well I don't know if that's and error or if it is always like this) and having the guitar for a whole year, every string has a weared hole in the fret. They all are little details that makes something. Then I see that's not only me that feel strange things in the guitar. Once set up, it's a really good guitar. Really comfortable. Has nice playing. The strings are harder than other guitars I've played before, but in the correct set up it stops minding you. And well the pickups weren't the ones of my preference so I changed them.
  7. Whoa Be.Em I've seen you by here and read you, you're really well informated about steinbergers , arent you? Someone told me about a Spirit that owns, that has the body of an M (pre-gibson). You know this specficiations , I've been searching but I havent found anything, I think that is from 2001 (it is an speculation). If this exist and the guy didn't fool me, he says he sell it by 400€ (maybe 500$), because I don't find any info I don't feel like buying it. I'd like to know the specifications, the original price, the bridge quality (I don't want some chinese cheap faulty bridge). The strong points and weak points. Thanks a lot Here I send you a really bad pic about it, that appears clearly the name spirit
  8. tosom

    ZT3 Pickups

    Nothing close to EMG They are kramer and I disliked them. The action that comes from the dealer is as high as the distance between marth and the earth and the pickups has no grace at all for me. Both things I disliked I changed.
  9. Why it is not a good deal? Well for example I'm interested in some pre-gibson steinberger...
  10. well, when I bought it the action it is really high. But I adjusted a little bit the truss rod, and lowed the action really low. The result, in my highest fret (24th) the distance is 2mm between fret and string in the low E string. and in the high-pitch E string only 1 mm. It is the most comfortable guitar to adjust that I've used before. But seeing the kind of guitar you like I don't think that the sound will fit you, I had to change my pickups because the one's that weas the guitar are really bad for distortion. And well, I didn't like them the sound , I am mostly a metal rock player. Another thing is that the pickups in ZT3 (I've felt really disapointed) are kramer. Well, I wish I've helped you, the pickups I use now are DiMarzzio AT-1 (bridge) and PAF Joe (neck)
  11. okay, you low the position of E string and you loose the strings, till here sure you've done right. Then the first socket to put the first ball will be the headpiece and then the bridge. If you do those things well we go to the most specialized aspects. Depending the height of the black pieces were you attach the string balls (in th e bridge)-the ones that you use to stabilize the tune different to E - can give you more difficulties when restringing. If it is what I think the problem, that it's hard to stabilize the black piece, use whatever thing (chopsticks (stupid example but you understand)) and put the piece in the wished position, attach the ball in the blackpiece and with a hand grab the black piece pressuring the ball inside so it doesn't come out and with the other tune the string to the point that the tension won't let go the ball. I wish I solved your problem
  12. I had a problem too, they sent me one zt3 that had the bridge broken, the system of transposingcould not work. Then they replaced and it went well but I've lost half a year or more waiting for the first and then being replaced. This aren't errors but thigns I didn't like but they can be resolved easily. I had to readjust the guitar neck and string action because it was really high, not worth for my playing style but it was hipereasy to adjust it, really good results. And the bridge pickup I'll change it for a dimarzio andytimmons. Too blusy or jazzy for me. Good luck with the replacement
  13. When you talks about twang (I'm not used with this terminology) I supose you talk about the accent with the bridge pickup (overall), It has a sharp attack. I thought that it would be good for rythmic music and with an autoWah it becomes crazier, I apologize for saying that it wouldn't fit any style, it's more like the sound doesn't fit the playing I like. With more fat sound. But it is really wierd for me, it is like a really thin and bright sound. For playing another brick in the wall of Pink Floyd it's perfect that really true. Thanks for share your opinion, I hope more people say what they think!
  14. I was really disappointed with the humbuckers. I think they are not good for any playing stile. They are not worth the guitar price. For me, a prog metal based player I'll buy some diMarzio pickups. I'm really annoyed. What you feel about those custom gibson pickups?
  15. I'm on my way to put DiMarzio,I'll put a PAF JOE in the neck and an AT-1 on the bridge. I'm a metal player but love the progressive and the possibility to change styles and play with clean and clear sounding pickups. THe PAF will give lots of powah to the grave riffs and the other one will make the magic with a more jazzy sound. I think them will growl like the best guitar in the world!! jajajja But if you combine them you will have to put some resistence or I don't know what in the PAF because it will sound with more volume when you change the configuration. So good luck with what you desire
  16. STEPPED METAL THING: At the bottom of the bridge there's a stepped metal piece that you can see when you bend to graver tones, the piece that blocks into the 5 position of affination. -Probably to regulate the affination, to make the middle position be in tune when the higher and lower positions are. -I haven't done but it's highly possible , and the screw next to the one of the stepped thing could be as like the one of releasing the higher of the strings and the intonation, but I wouldn't swear on it. If someone can say if I'm right or correct me , please do it, because it affects to every one who takes my manual as a real one, and I wouldn't like to cause problems to other people by my own mistakes. thanks. But you will understand that a complete manual about TT3 is needed for lots of steinbergers newbies.
  17. Hei, I think that as me, lots of new steinberger ZT3 users don't know much about the whole thing os holes for keys screws and knows the basics (only after seeing the ned's video about tuning the guitar). So I'll start the simple thing. Hope it's useful (the first one I'm writing it's for beginners like me, if something is incorrect please you are free to say it) Adjusting the lever from the lever screws. -There are two screws, you tighten them between each other to mantain them together for long time. Floating bridge on the desired key (D, D#, E, F, F#) or whatever configuration you have. You can adjust the counter spring in whatever position (not much use going to the lowest o highest (no range in on way and exagerated to the other). -Thorugh the Thumb Wheel Adjuster (the big thing behind the guitar. Looseness or tightness of the lever. -Int he place you screw the lever in the bridge, there are two key holes (upt to you). Tuning the guitar (tuning the 5 positions: -6 tuning knobs: tuning in the highest position. -6 Key holes on under next to the base of the strings: check the tune in the lowest position. If I understand only using those the 5 positions whould be the whole thing to have the 5 positions in perfect pitch (not working with me) Recomendation, when you check the low position don't get angry, you can tune the strings (more or less) individually, that's really helpful, if you don't find the tune in the lowest position go to the highest and retune it and after you'll aproach to the main thing) Intonation (I haven't done it yet, seems easy as any other bridge) -Loosen the set screw on the side (This unlock the saddles) -If intonation is high adjust the saddle backward or forward if it is low by the key hole they have forward. -Retighten the set screw Setting the action (STRING HEIGHT) (never donde before in this bridge) -Loosen the set screw on the side. -Using the Hex wrench , adjust the saddle set screws up and down to desired action height. -Retighten the set screw. ATTENTION! This is not for answering question about individual problems, this pretends to be a serious post about a DIY adjusting. The ones who post about the bridge functions do it like I've done before more or less: First the function or something related to the issue, next the anatomic concrete part and a little how to do it. Thanks a lot for your cooperation and as you can see my main language is not english, don't make this a trouble. I wish we can do a really useful manual for all us. LET'S DO SOMETHING BIG!!
  18. Hei, I'm new in steinberger world, I've got a ZT3 and I saw lots of comments about transtrem version saying what is the best or I prefer that... but I'd like to know, What are the true diferences about the TTx. and the guitars that brought them. thanks
  19. True, in the ressessed tool holder it should be 2 keys (their width: 2 and 3) and one bigger in the cage for the truss rod
  20. In my brand guitar it seems thant the lever angle doesn't feet weel to transpose tunnings or to use it freely. And the two screws (the two circular black pieces below in the lever), aren't trully fitful for the hole. So please, does anybody know, how could I adjust the thing in the bridge were the lever connects to put the lever in the desired angle? Thanks and sorryt about english.
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