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Infiner

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  1. The other schematic, unused and untested, use at your own risk:
  2. Thanks much appreciate that, I'm just here to share what I've learned by poking around with my soldering iron, and multimeter. I only hope to save the next person that works on one of these some time, as I spent quite a while scratching my head.
  3. Well I will think about the other schematic later I'm anxiously waiting for some tools from Stewmac. I really should be sleeping, but I'm tracking my package, and no it hasn't moved.
  4. They actually knew about this problem and offered people a free repair service if you sent it back to the store you bought it from. They would then offer you to trade for a fixed one the store already had, or they would send it back to the manufacturer for you. The trouble is, not many knew about the warranty repair service, so a there are a lot of T-Pros are still out in the wild that have electronics issues. I'm not sure the exact years the T-Pro had these issues, I'm thinking the earlier models when they first came out. So if someone is selling them for a steal, you might know why, beca
  5. Yes that's correct they work in a passive mode, if the red wire was wired to ground, or signal instead of battery, that might remove the hum as well, although they appear to have the capability to switch between active and passive on some other schematics I have, which I can't upload because I have used all my upload space. It is not unusual for bass pickups to switch between active and passive, Bartolini has bass pickups that can do this. The reason they can do this is because the bass string is much larger and generates a stronger magnetic flux than a guitar string is capable of. Switc
  6. What I've done so far: 1. I soldered the red T-Pro pickup wires into the main red battery wire along with the preamp brown wire, and hum gone. 2. I removed the plastic output jack that comes stock and soldered in a 3-prong Switchcraft jack in it's place. Tip: Signal, Middle: -Battery (Black), Ring: Ground 3. I tried the parallel 18v battery mod, which didn't increase volume or affect the scratchy blend pot as I hoped it would. The additional battery did not fit along with the preamp in the control cavity, causing the cover to bulge, which over time will permanently war
  7. In the process I made a little color chart for what each color wire does.
  8. I found a push/pull schematic ( RBA04p ) that switches between active and passive. It looks to me the red and orange wires are swapped when switching from active to passive, with the orange wire going to ground in passive. The MJ300-NI in the wiring diagram is a stereo Switchcraft type jack.
  9. The preamp bears very close resemblance to the Duncan Designed BEQ-2, as a matter of fact, they might be the same, just thought I would mention that if anyone searches. I did a search for BEQ-2 and some guy is selling one, I look extremely close at the picture several times and try to make out the lettering. I look closer and see that it says RBA-04m, I found the schematic as a search for RBA04m.
  10. I searched far and wide for these schematics due to the humming problem, note these schematics only apply to the Epiphone Thunderbird Pro IV and V. I re-wired it exactly as outlined in the following steps. 1. The Bass and Treble potentiometers were not grounded at the factory, they should be grounded in series to the volume pot. This is shown in the schematic wiring diagram attached. 2. Both of the T-Pro pickups have an extra red wire on them that should be wired to the battery red cable, as they are indeed active pickups. (I suspect based on Duncan Basslines) 3. Remove the pic
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