j45nick

The BBs always reminded me of the Zombies in their general music style. I liked them back then, and you do justice to their two biggest hits.

That's a good question. The earliest Martin D-series guitars were round-shouldered, with a slightly longer body, I believe. If you want to call those dreadnoughts, the Gibson slope-Js would have to fit in that same category. Note that this same body style (and the associated 12-fret neck) carried over into Martin 12-strings in more modern times.

The switch between guitars with different string spacing takes a few minutes for me, but muscle memory kicks in pretty quickly. Your expectations may be a bit unrealistic. Certainly some guitars may be easier than others to adapt to. If you are that sensitive to this particular issue, I would suggest that you not buy any guitar without first playing it. Likewise, your expectation of hitting chords cleanly every time is unrealistic. Not even pros do that in live concert. If you have one guitar that really does this right for you--and it sounds like you do-- stick with that one most of the time. That's what I do. You might also consider a custom order through Gibson's M2M program, where you can specify the details you want on a guitar. Different guitars are easier or more difficult to play for a lot of people. The big, fat neck of the '34 Jumbo is too much for many people, but it sounds right for you.

The nut width and bridge string spacing on your 1934 Jumbo is authentic to the 1930s. It is the same as on my L-00 1937 Legend. Likewise, the narrower spacing at the bridge of your '42 SJ is correct for that period. The .5mm difference in nut width between the two is insignificant. That's .02" (2/100") for non-metric folks. You may find that the two actually have the same string spacing at the nut. Both widths are nominally correct, given that nuts are essentially hand-finished to match a specific neck. I don't have a modern "standard" Gibson model to check. I do have a custom 1943 SJ re-issue that is 56mm at the bridge and 45.28mm at the nut, but that is also what they call the Luthier's Choice neck. My completely original 1950 J-45 is 55.5mm at the bridge and 43.3 at the nut (1.704").

It's a magical album Do you wait to cut the tails of the wound strings until after the strings are tensioned? If not, you have killed them, since they are wound on a round core wire. Read the instructions on the inside of the box about how to string a guitar with strings of this type. Takes a slightly different technique compared to hex-core strings.

The time to change is when you no longer like the way they sound. That could be anywhere from weeks to years, literally. I changed a set of Sunbeams on my #1 1950 J-45 a few months ago after a full two years. I like the way the new ones sound, but I like the old ones until they get to the point where they are hard to tune.

Really nice! I played an original 1930s rosewood L-OO (yes, they exist) that True Vintage Guitars had a few years ago, when I was. looking for a vintage L-OO. It was a stunner, but out of my price range. That's when I ended up with an L-OO Legend, rather than a vintage version. That rosewood Nick Lucas would be on my bucket list.

Made to Measure. In other words, custom ordered. Bespoke.

Kluson.

Based on the serial number, would be either 1965 or 1968. Based on the screw-on pickguard, I'd say 1968.

Apparently, Jagger gets satisfaction out of a 'Bird.

Unlike some other companies, Gibson has not maintained a single, consistent, sequential numbering system over time. This sometimes results in duplicating serial numbers at various times in Gibson's history. You can generally but not always correctly identify the actual year by a combination of the label format, serial number format, and physical characteristics of the guitar.

That has exactly the same serial number format as my 2006 Southern Jumbo. I can't tell you anything about the guitar except that it is a label with a real 2006 serial number. A 2006 guitar and a 1976 guitar should be pretty easy to tell apart based on physical characteristics and condition. J-200 experts here may comment. Post pictures of the front and back of the guitar. A 1976 guitar will have a 00 prefix, so it could in theory have the same serial number as a guitar built in the modern era. The label tells you that it is a Bozeman guitar, however.

Looks really nice, but as Em7 says, it would be nice to hear it with a lighter touch. They had an even nicer '61 on their website, but it's sold.

I enjoyed that. I haven't watched Jack White very much, but his voice and phrasing here reminds me of a young Robert Plant, and I mean that in a good way.

Spanish cedar top and rosewood B&S is the primary wood combination on my Spanish-built Prisloe classical as well. It's a sweet-sounding and great-looking guitar, for its type.

It's pretty much the same principle as having a good break angle at the saddle, but it seems to me that having a strong compressive coupling on the soundboard would be more important.

Unfortunately, that website says the aren't available at this time. Yours looks very, very nice.

C-1?

Try it with a 12-string slothead. It can be an all-day job.

There will be a strong family resemblance tonally, but the difference in top woods, top bracing style, and bridge/saddle combinations means there will also be noticeable differences. The neck profiles will be quite different from each other. Which you prefer is simply a matter of personal taste. I find a true late 60's neck a bit cramped. There is a lot of hardware in the soundboard associated with the adjustable bridge. It may also come with a larger, thicker bridgeplate, which can make the top a bit harder to drive.

Find it on the unicorn shelf. If it exists, that would be a modern Bozeman guitar. Knowing Bozeman, it probably does exist. I know they have made 12-fret versions of other slope-J models.

I could listen to David Dugas playing that Smeck all day long.

It almost looks like buffing compound residue to me, but I would take it back to the dealer and ask for another guitar, if you are concerned. There seems to inconsistency in what documentation is delivered with new Gibsons. I have never bought a brand-new Gibson, but have several recent Gibsons, both acoustic and electric. Both acoustics came with the pre-pack inspection checklist. The other documentation varied. One came with a copy of the warranty, and an "owner's manual" fold-up pamphlet. Another also came with what is basically a certificate of authenticity, but that one is a Legend-series guitar. One came with a trussrod adjustment manual. My electric came with a fancy COA in a padded black folder, as well as hangtags for virtually every component of the guitar. I have heard of others, however, coming with nothing.

Did you buy it from a Gibson dealer, who sold it to you as a brand-new guitar?