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vestiges

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About vestiges

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  1. eBay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steinberger-USA-GR4-Original-Newburgh-w-OSC-/221201222038
  2. Actually, I looked into it and Couch does not use leather. I wonder how a real leather strap would compare.
  3. Bringing back an old thread.. Has anyone fitted an SS-2F with a piezo bridge? If so, how can one attain one, and how much do they run? What is the installation process like?
  4. I will buy these if you still have them. PM sent.
  5. Couch straps are indeed made of leather, and I even had the end of mine custom-done to reinforce it more. I still find the wing cutting through the strap. The new reinforced strap has held up for about a year, but will undoubtedly snap soon. I'm looking for something that will last longer.
  6. Thanks for the input. However, I should add that I am located in the USA, so certain options like this one would be quite costly to ship.
  7. I have used a Couch strap with my ST-2FPA for a while now, and the sharp Synapse strap arm keeps digging into it. I actually had to send it to Couch to get a new reinforced end, and even this one has worn down. Are there any better options for straps with reinforced holes that won't get torn by the Synapse strap arms?
  8. I went through pretty much the same decision process recently (except I'm tuning to B standard) and I decided to go with the baritone. It means that I can have higher tension with thinner strings. I'm using 13-72 right now and they have tons of tension... I would probably have to used something like 15-80 (which isn't even readily available) to get that much tension on the regular scale Synapse. However, there really shouldn't be a problem with either. If you like the feel of 13's on a 25.5 scale at Bb, it will feel the same on the SS-2F as your current guitar... I don't agree with the previous comment that the Synapse can only operate within a certain range of tension. If you pull the string through the headstock adapter really tight with pliers, then try to tune it, then yes, the bridge piece is not going to go deep enough into the bridge to be very stable. You can manipulate this by simply not pulling the string so taught through the headstock adapter. On a side note, the Synapse really is worth the extra cash. The composite material makes it at least 10x more durable and reliably in tune than the wooden Spirit.
  9. Active. Yes. http://www.steinberger.com/XS15FPACST.html
  10. One thing to consider is that Steinberger makes a 12-68 set for the baritone. I would guess that strings designed specifically for this guitar would not cause intonation problems. Plus, that is literally the only way to tune low on a Stein with double ball strings. I'm now in the market for an ST-2FPA. Recently picked up an SS-2F because I got a good deal, but I really think I'd prefer the baritone scale.
  11. Definitely, I just wish I could reap the benefits of double ball: 1) Easier to switch strings 2) Less material used 3) They satisfy my OCD, being perfectly matched to the guitar I am using I talked to someone at La Bella about just ordering some loose strings to make a 13-52 set, but he strongly recommended against that. He said it would be impossible to achieve exactly the correct tension, whereas every set is designed to be perfect. This makes me worry about more "Guitar Center"-ish brands (D'Addario, Ernie Ball, etc.) who market lots of varieties of "sets" which definitely put different types of tension on the neck (i.e. there's your regular 9's, then your 9's with a "heavy bottom"). Does anyone know if the goal is to achieve the same tension for each string when tuned, or is it supposed to be spread in a certain way across the neck? D'Addario (my favorite big brand) at least advertises the tension of their strings, but essentially every set has a different spread across the neck. Should I aim for the one that is most even, or what??
  12. Ok, well I went ahead and took the chance. The 11-50 set works perfectly on my SS-2F. Still not heavy enough, though
  13. I'm looking at La Bella strings on JustStrings.com, and there is a disclaimer that these strings were designed for the original Steinberger designs and may not fit newer models. Can anyone confirm that the regular La Bella double balls (as found in the top half here) fit the SS-2F?
  14. Thanks for the input. It's good to know that the fret markers don't bother you. And yes I'm sure the piezo is awesome. Were you ever bothered by the ridges on the sides of the fretboard? Or are these just another thing that just takes a little adjustment to get used to? I have seen a few mentions of the heavy baritone string set offered by Steinberger (12-68)being used to tune the transcale down to B to B. Is this what they are intended for? If so, it might be nice to keep it in this tuning and usually have the capo on the second fret, but have the option of either going up or down. I am definitely attracted to the uniqueness of the transcale as an instrument on the whole. I wish there was a place remotely close to me that I could try one out.
  15. Hello all, first-time poster here. I'm really close purchasing my first Steinberger - they really seem perfect in all the ways I care about. The only dilemma I am still having is whether or not I should get the baritone transcale version. My current band tunes to C standard (so every string down two whole steps). I currently use a 25.5" scale guitar with 13-56 strings and this seems to work out okay. I know I could just continue to use those same strings on the SS-2F and get the same results in terms of string tension. But the fact that the Transcale is built to go a little lower (D standard) intrigues me, because I would be tuning less "out of the way" of the way it was designed. Also, I'd prefer to use double-ball strings when using the Steinberger, and, as far as I know, no one is making 13 gauge double-ball strings for the standard 25.5". The Steinberger 12 gauge for the baritone seem like they would be perfect for dropping one more whole step to C. But here's the kicker: the design of the transcale really, really irks me because the side dot inlays indicate different positions than the top inlays! This just seems outrageous to me. I would probably usually use this guitar with the capo all the way down in the baritone position, and sometimes roll it up a fret or two, so I'd much prefer the side and top to just indicate the full baritone fret markers. Can any owners attest to this problem actually not being as big of a deal as I think it would be? Also, please weigh in on the situation and make your suggestion about which guitar is right for me.
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