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the fish!

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  1. They were completely stripped. So, I bought some JB Weld, mixed it up, and put a small amount into each end of the block, inserted the threaded rod, took a toothpick and picked away any available excess, and let it start to cure (it takes about 18 hours or so to completely cure). Now, if it ever becomes desirable to use the threads for anything, I'm hoping that since they are stainless, and the block looks like composite, or plastic, that by turning the threads, they might break loose from the epoxy, and turn freely, creating the threads inside the block as it starts to turn. If not, then I really don't care, because, as mentioned, the threads don't really adjust anything, so if I do find it necessary/desirable to replace the pick guard, I'll just pull the threaded rod out of the existing pickguard and use the bracket on the replacement. In the meantime, it is fixed, in place, and looks good!
  2. In looking at the why when and where re MY ES335, I had (email) conversations with Jon, CS at Gibson. He told me that Gibson’s Nashville plant was opened in Tennessee 1974, and at that plant they produced about 220 guitars per day. HOWEVER, until '84, Semi-hollow and Hollow-bodied guitars were made in Memphis, (and in the Custom Shop if you ordered a special finish, ie, Heritage Cherry Burst). Gibson decided to move this operation to Nashville, and in '84 they did exactly that. If you contact Gibson Customer Service, they can tell by the serial number where your guitar was made, and which number of the day it was. Mine was the 5th ES 335, on that day of production. From a Gibson forum post: - In 1977, Gibson introduced the serialization method that we primarily use to this day at Gibson USA, Gibson Acoustic, and the Gibson Custom facility in Memphis, TN. The serial number will be an 8 digit number impressed into the back of the headstock with "MADE IN USA" below. The pattern is as follows: YDDDYRRR YY is the production year DDD is the day of the year RRR is the factory ranking/plant designation number. Prior to 1984 when the Kalamazoo, MI factory was closed, the numbers 001-499 indicated Kalamazoo production. Ranking numbers 500-999 continued to indicate Nashville production through 1989. Guitar Info Your guitar was made at the Nashville Plant, TN, USA December 14th, 1984 Production Number: 5 Gibson: Nashville Gibson’s Nashville plant was opened in Tennessee 1974. All electric models and some acoustic models currently made at this factory. This facility has an average production rate of 220 guitars a day. Each guitar is built by hand and takes about 4 to 6 weeks to complete. Note: Most hollow and semi-hallow body guitars are made at a separate plant in Memphis Tennessee. This facility has an average production rate of 40 guitars a day. He sent me this, which I found interesting: Thanks for the reply(and VERY nice 335)!! The serial number is consistent with a model made on the 348th day of 1984 in Nashville, TN. The ES-335 model was only available in Ebony and Cherry finishes in standard production. However, it was available as a custom order in Antique Natural, Vintage Sunburst, and Heritage Cherry Sunburst finishes. The pickups, being original, are indeed be the Tim Shaw designed “Patent Applied For” humbuckers. I have attached information on the model for your viewing. Thanks again!! Jon Sutherland Gibson Customer Service 1-800-4GIBSON its just data, but I found it interesting.
  3. Adopted a week ago. 1984 Custom Shop, Shaw PAF's, Grovers, CherryBurst, all original. The case looks brand new-the thread is still white! BTW....ditto your screen name! heh heh!
  4. I'm liking that....simple, which is usually better, and less likely to damage the actual hole further. Thanks
  5. Thanks for the reply. I sure don't want to do more damage to the hole then already has been done. I kinda like the idea of a few drops of a liquid (something like loctite, or superglue) going in there that can then harden around the threads of the screw, but I also like the idea of drilling, but I'm thinking that that would be a good route if I actually had a tap the correct size. Do you think that I will be able to just screw the shaft into the epoxy without having it break off even more of a 'chip' than already exists? **I could mix the two parts of the epoxy, put some into the hole, and then, before it sets, just slide the shaft into the (still soft) epoxy, and let it harden around the shaft of the screw...It seems to me that it might actually harden around the steel, thus forming new threads as it hardens. Obviously, just buying a replacement pickguard would be nice if (a.)I could find one that LINED UP with the existing setup, and (b.) could afford it! lol! Thanks for the thought. I'm going to 'dream about it' overnight, and then make my way to the hardware, with the fresh idea ready to go!
  6. Sort of off/on topic, but amusing, I think??? I recently (a week ago) got my hands on an ES-335 that serial number provided the following info....while it was NOT made in Memphis, it was only the #5 out of the Nashville Custom Shop. Like Johnny Cash said "get you a car that was built on WEDNESDAY" ... I don't know if it would be better to get the 5th to the last of the run before they shut down the plant, or in the first 5 they made out of their new home. I can say, that based on all factors, there might have been a little 'poppin the top' in Memphis, and after the first two or three ran out of the custom shop in the new 'digs' they might have been gettin' it right, and feeling good about their new 'Custom Shop' and their (inherent) big raises for making the move! (A lotta hhmmmmm there, eh?)
  7. First, let me say HI to all. I look forward to getting to know some of you, and for openers, I have a little challenge. I am looking for a little guidance in the repair of an adjustable screw and block for the pickguard. So, thanks in advance, and here we go......... ES-335. There is an adjustment screw that goes into the little plastic (carbon?) block on the back of the pick guard. On my ES-335, which I just 'adopted', the threads in the plastic block are stripped, and there is a small (very small) "v" shaped chip that is gone. It would appear that someone, sometime, tried to move the pickguard in (up) or out (down) and in doing so, created this chipped/stripped situation. I talked to a guy who has seen a few Gibsons in his day, and he thought that simply dropping a drop or two of superglue into the hole, and then just sliding the adjustment threaded bar into the hole, and as it dries, it will dry with the threaded rod in place, and should actually create the threaded hole that existed when the pickguard was new. Has anyone ever seen this particular type of damage, and (therefore) have a possible alternative solution in the repair of this block? THANKS! If my attempt at uploading pics succeeds, this a pic of the threaded adjustment screw, that screws into the 'block' . ...then, the block itself, and the adjustment screw going into the block where the stripped threads are, and the newly adopted ES-335. Ain't she a cutie? Thanks for any help in the fixing of this block and thread puzzle!
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