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Texasbluezman

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Posts posted by Texasbluezman

  1. To tell the truth, I figured you'd get it figured out.

    Did the volume tapers work out the way you wanted them to?

     

    Next time someone wants to do a 50's upgrade it will be your turn to do the explaining.

    Big time CONGRATS!!!

     

    Willy

    Volume tapers are working out just the way I wanted them.

     

    I'll tell what happened, After wiring and labeling the switch, I ran the wires through the cavity. Then I realized that my longest wire was not going to the output jack. So I added an extension. The only problem with that is, the outer braid was touching the inner wire, which in turn sent everything to ground. Only took me 2 days to fix that little problem. I feel kinda embarassed, but I decided to put it out here for others to learn from.

     

    Next time someone needs help on a 50's upgrade, just send 'em my way!

     

    And THANKS for the help Willy!

  2. I had asked if anyone could tell where on the guitar to check with a multimeter, but apparently nobody knew. Anyway, I found the problem. Everything is in working order now. It was a grounding issue. I did some clean up in the cavity. Made some wires shorter, and routed them in an orderly fashion. I almost like this guitar as much as my Gibby. It has a mellow,but aggressive sound. Not a drastic change from before the mods, but noticeable. Would be hard to explain. I so happy to get it finished, that I put the covers on, and plugged it in for a 1 hour jam session with myself and Gary Moore's Still Got The Blues CD. So I will post some pics in the near future. It's not the best soldering job, but I'm getting better. Thanks to everyone for your help!

  3. I checked the output plug and even reversed the wires just for grins. I did label each wire from the switch before I fed them through the body. I am using vintage braided wire. I must admit, your control cavity looks much neater than mine.

     

    It could be possible that I may have put too much heat on something. But how could I check? Could I use a multimeter and check certain points to determine where my problem could be?

  4. I finally got around to installing my upgrade. Got everything installed in about an hour. Plugged in and nothing! After 5 hours of troubleshooting, which included taking almost everything back apart, watching youtube tutorials, and looking at several schematics, I'm at a loss. I have no idea what is wrong. I pretty much drove myself to a frenzy and am ready to either take it to somebody else or throw it out the window of my 2 story house. But lucky for me, the window won't open.

     

    It won't make a sound at all. Even if I touch things inside the cavity, nothing. Either something is broke or something is shorting out, and not letting a signal get to the output jack. I just don't know.

     

    Help! Please!

  5. The Mojotone caps are .022uf. And yeah, I'm gonna experiment with different values before I put iron to it.

     

    I have dealt with braided wire before, but I didn't know what I was doing then (not that I do now [lol]). I've read some of your stuff WW about it, and I believe I have seen pics also, but help is always appreciated.

     

    The pics are coming out crystal clear, and huge too! I plan on a step by step pictorial of the whole process.

  6. Well, just an update. I'm gonna share this rebuild with pics. Here's what I have in the git now:

     

    SAM_0164.jpg

    Looks like a mess in here.

    SAM_0163.jpg

     

    Here are some of my new parts. The rest will be here soon. I did not confirm the address that paypal had on the receipt. For some stupid reason, if I pay outside of ebay, paypal brings up an old address. Looks like it's getting sent back to the distributor, then back to me.

     

    SAM_0157.jpg

     

    SAM_0150.jpg

     

    SAM_0152.jpg

     

    SAM_0153.jpg

     

    SAM_0154.jpg

  7. Those are excellent examples. I listened to them twice, the second time with my eyes closed. That pretty much says it all. Thanks bro.

     

    I just wanted to add. I've been a player for 25 years. I've done half *** maintenance on my guitars through the years just enough to get by with, and because I'm too cheap to pay someone. About a year ago I really wanted to get into guitar repairs and maintenance, because I thought I knew enough to do it. After joining the Fender and Gibson forum, I've had a change of mind. I learned a lot in the past year, and realized I need more practice and knowledge before I try to work on other peoples equipment. I do know one thing I am good at, and that's setting up a Floyd Rose. I had an original 1980's Ibanez RG550 for 10 years. Got lots of practice on that guitar.

     

    Thank you to everybody for your past, present and future help in my longing quest for tone.

     

    I've just ordered the last of my parts. I went with the Hoagland Bros. pot set.

  8. Looks like I'll be using "Dependent 50's". I will be using linear pots for volume and audio pots for tone also. I got my eye on a set on ebay. Here's a link to them:

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCHED-500k-CTS-SHORT-SHAFT-POTS-SUPERIOR-QUALITY-Model-PO-401?item=390394797117&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7077845660410291448

     

    And, yes, I have read, and continue to read the other post.

     

    Does it matter the taper percentages of audio pots, when using them as tone pots?

  9. Do you know where to get them cheaper? I've read up about audio and linear taper, but haven't made up my mind on that either. Plus, I'm going with the vintage 50's wiring scheme, so I wasn't sure if I should use all audio or a mix of the tapers.

  10. If your using CTS pots try and get the ones with the brass shaft housing, they're better than the pot metal shaft housing brethren IMO and only cost about a dollar more.

    Would that be this one?post-34458-010777900 1331882960_thumb.jpg

     

    This is what I was thinking about ordering.post-34458-036955600 1331883196_thumb.jpg

     

    But I really want some like these that are matched.post-34458-083729800 1331883429_thumb.jpgpost-34458-043637500 1331883537_thumb.jpg

    Here's the link again:http://www.matchedguitarpots.com/Potkits.html

  11. Well, I've decided to buy each part individually. I make plenty of money for an assembled kit, but I really enjoy building this stuff. Actually, I can afford a Gibby '59RI, but for the sake of argument with my wife, I don't really NEED one, I just WANT one. (That's what she says) But maybe, someday, that day will come. Probably after my son graduates high school. Only 5 more years! Patience is a virtue!

     

    I have 2 AllParts Vitamin Q caps (.047uf), 2 Mojo Vitamin T caps (.022uf), and 6 feet of vintage cloth covered wire with braided shielding on the way. Got it all off of ebay.

     

    Which ever caps I don't use, I'm gonna try them in my Am. Dlx. Strat.

     

    I haven't decided on the pots yet. I would like to get some with the values as close to each other as possible, and for them to be at least 500K. Like the ones from Matched Pots.com, and others that offer matched pots.

     

    The rest of the stuff will be ordered from Guitar Nucleus, as stated in my opening post, with the exception of the knob puller. After looking at BCS's site, their instructions show a simple way to take knobs off with an old shirt. Here's the link: http://bcsguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Vintage-LP-Complete-Assembled.pdf, scroll down to figure 5 pics. Now that's cheap!

     

    I'm gonna try this setup with my stock Epi pickups first. I haven't decided which pickups to get yet.

  12. Check out these folks. I have done business with MOJOTONE, here is another cheaper idea to upgrade your wiring. Check out all their options. This link is for upgrading a Epi DOT.

     

     

    http://bcsguitars.com/?page_id=2760

     

    I had this site saved in my favorites, but it has been awhile since I looked at it. Also, I've seen these kits for sale on ebay. This might be the way to go. Thanks! I have about 150 sites saved that are about guitar and amp repair, so it can get confusing as to what site has what on it.

  13. I don't think my stock pickups sound muddy at all. I have had my amp cranked to about 3-4, and every note was still well pronounced. After I get off this night shift, I will get back with my buds and do some jamming. I've bought a new amp, a new overdrive pedal, and a new guitar since we last got together. In the 2nd half of 2010, most of my gear was stolen, so I'm still getting new stuff. After that, I will evaluate if I want to do the upgrade immediately or sometime down the road.

     

    When I first hooked up with these guys, all I had was my newly aquired Fender Strat Am. Dlx. and a Peavey Windsor half stack. That was not a good combination. Now I have a Fender Blues Deluxe Reissue with NOS preamp tubes, a Jekyll & Hyde overdrive/distortion (V1 grey box), a Jimi wah (JH-1B), and a Peavey Ultra 410 (60 watts). I not real happy with the Peavey, but I traded to get rid of the half stack that really sounded good with my Schecter, but I decided to play strictly blues, plus I had a mild back strain last year, and did not want to be lugging that big cab up and down stairs.

  14. Did I miss where you said what PU's you're upgrading to? Better PU's will make more improvement than everything else put together. If you're going 1950's vintage, the best PU's are a set of Duncan Seth's, designed by Seth Lover, the guy that invented HB's back in the mid 1950's.

    I have in other posts, but not this one. I really haven't made up mind yet, but I'm leaning towards either a set of '57 classics or burstbuckers (1,2,3, or pros) with nickel covers, so that it retains a stock look. But I am open to other pickups. I will try to listen to a few samples tonight, but my work computer doesn't allow most streaming audio or video.

  15. Also Epi knobs will not fit CTS pots. Guitar Nucleus has the best prices on those also.

     

    Speed and bell knobs-$3.99 a pair

    Reflector bell knobs-$4.99 a pair

     

    I going with the black knob/silver top ones.

     

    And if you're gonna be taking knobs off, you might as well get the knob puller, which Guitar Nucleus has the best price also @ $6.99. You know you're gonna need it for future projects, too.

  16. ahem, how do YOU know that they don't buy their wood from the same supplier? ;)

     

    My thoughts exactly. Nobody knows exactly where the wood is bought or distributed to. Unless you believe everything you read.

     

    I know my LP won't sound just like a Gibby, because it has an alder top, instead of a maple top!

  17. I've searched and compiled a list of all parts needed for upgrading your electronics to Gibson 1959 spec. Here is a list of the components with the best price, and where to get them:

     

    CTS audio pots: Guitar Nucleus-$4.79 each

    Bourns audio pots: Guitar Nucleus-$3.99 each

    CTS linear pots: Guitar Electronics-$4.95 each

     

    Caps .022mfd

    Vitamin Q: Guitar Electronics-$11.25 each

    Orange Drop: Guitar Electronics-$5.79 for 2

     

    Switchcraft output jack

    Guitar Nucleus-$2.19 each

     

    Switchcraft toggle switch

    Guitar Nucleus-$15.99 each

     

    Cloth covered vintage wire from Guitar Electronics:

    2.5 ft white and black-$3.99

     

    Optional pointer washers: Guitar Nucleus-$2.49

     

    Of course there is shipping. Guitar Electronics offer free shipping for orders over $49. Guitar Nucleus is $7.95 for orders $0-$19.99 and $5.95 for orders over $20.

     

    Here are the links:

    http://www.guitarnucleus.com/gnstore/index.html

    http://www.guitarelectronics.com/

     

    If anyone knows where to get these quality components cheaper, then I would appreciate your input.

     

    If your really picky about your tone, you could get these instead:

    http://www.matchedguitarpots.com/Potkits.html

     

    Just trying to be a helpful forum member. I plan doing this upgrade myself to my newly aquired Epi LP Custom Silverburst.

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