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About JO'C

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    Guitar playing and collecting (electric, acoustic, bass), jamming with my band, playin' the Blues, Classic and Southern Rock. Sound engineering and recording.
  1. Hello Alicat, It is likely between '71 and '74 when walnut tops were popular. the purple, black and white sticker started in late '70/early '71. The best way to know for sure is to get a date code from one of the pots. A small inspection mirror through the f-hole and a flashlight might make the code readable. I have a '69 335 which by the serial# could have been either '66 or '69. The date code on one of the pots corresponded to '68 which eliminated the possibility of '66. Unfortunately for you the early '70's had no definitive serial number scheme. They were all over the place.
  2. I would say yes on the nitro. I had a limited edition 1 of 350 made John Lennon J160-E made in Bozeman and it definitely has a nitro finish. I've owned many Custom Shop Gibsons and nitro is the std finish.
  3. Just give me something I can hold onto To believe in this living is just a hard way to go. Written 50 years ago and never truer than now. I saw Bonnie do Angel from Montgomery with James Taylor at Fenway Park several years ago. It was so good I nearly cried. When I listened to LaBomba's post I did. I have that recording on a Bonnie Raitt Collection double CD somewhere and it brought back fond memories of a great song performed by two great artists that were also great friends. I saw Bonnie interviewed by Anderson Cooper last night and she gave a great tribute to John. I'll be adding Angel from Montgomery back to my solo acoustic set list and after last week I vowed to learn the great Bill Whithers songs. We could all use somebody to lean on these days.
  4. Just to add to the confusion, I had a 2008 Larry Carlton signature ES-335. It has a CSxxxxx serial number, Custom Shop case, Gibson Custom COA and was made in Memphis. Later versions of the same model, 2010 on I think, have an MExxxxx serial number, ME meaning Memphis. Never got to compare a newer one to see if they were the same. The Warren Haynes model went through the same thing. I have no idea whether there was a separate custom shop in Memphis for a period of time. That said, my Larry Carlton was impeccably made and comparable to other Gibson Custom Shop guitars I've owned. I have a CS-336 and had a Johnny A, several LP's and a Firebird and all were Nashville Custom Shop.
  5. I checked your serial# with the Gibson Electric Serialization chapter in the 11th Edition Blue Book of Electric Guitars and it is in the same range as mine, so it could be '66 or '69. The Blue Book is the gold std for Gibson serial#'s and is totally accurate unlike the Guitar Dater Project which is usually totally wrong. You may want to ask the shop if they can use an inspection mirror to read the #'s on one of the pots in order to get a date code. On mine there was a blob of solder blocking out the # on the pot closest to the f-hole so I had to remove a pot to get a good look at the number. This can be easily done if you tie a string around the shaft of the pot before removing the nut. Then you can pull it over to the f-hole for a good look and then you can pull the string to get the shaft back into its proper position. Without the string it can be a nightmare getting the pot back into its hole.
  6. Hi Moose, Great score!! I have a '69 that looks nearly the same except my sunburst is lighter and doesn't go to black. My S/N is 833616 so I'm guessing yours is from around the same time. The problem is that Gibson did some funky things with serial #'s back then. I have a publication at home that gives detailed dates of Gibsons based on serial #'s. Mine fell into a category that could either be '66 or '69. I had to get a date code off one of the pots which turned out to be from '68 so that ruled out '66. Sometime in '66 Gibson changed the nut width from 1 11/16" to 1 9/16". The narrower nut width was used into '69. If it is a '66 with 1 11/16" nut width it will be worth considerably more. A lot of people favor the wider nut width. If it's a '69 $5K might be a stretch. If it's a '66 with a wider nut, $5K will be on the low end of value.
  7. You're welcome. I used to be more active on the site when I had 30+ guitars. I sold off a bunch and now have a more reasonable number, <10 and only a couple of Gibsons, so I usually only look at this once a week or so to see if anything interesting pops up.
  8. Hi Billroy, I have a '69 ES-335 and I had a '66 ES-335-12. Both have Pat No. sticker humbuckers which I know to be original, not T-tops. I have a T-top lying around and it has a stamped Pat No., not sticker. T-tops are more like early 70's so spending $800 for a set would not get you to authentic. Unfortunately Pat No. sticker humbuckers will cost a lot more than $800. That said I also have modern Gibsons with '57 Classics, including a 2008 Larry Carlton Custom Shop ES-335, which is based on a 1968. Tone-wise I can't tell the difference between the '69 and the '08. This is the correct pickup: https://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff379/JOC1021/NJ Auction April 2016/DSC_0947_zpstnyxblmk.jpg Good luck with your project, JO'C
  9. Hi Sgt. Pepper, I've been watching this thread with some interest. Working in the laser industry for nearly 40 years I've spent a lot of time with liquid nitrogen and cryogenics. I remember back in the 80's the big rage was to treat machining tools like end mills in liquid nitrogen to super harden them. Jaxson50 is right. There is a specific time process involved, especially bringing the metal back to room temp. With cryogenically cooled lasers, the process to bring them safely back to room temp is on the order of about 3 hours. Otherwise the metals could be shocked and actually become brittle. Also to properly treat the strings they should be extended linearly and tensioned as they would be in use. If you just take the strings from the pack all looped in circles the thermal contraction would be around the curvature rather than linear. A dip in liquid nitrogen and then a quick rise to room temp could cause weakening of the strings. Every metal or alloy has a unique coefficient of thermal expansion. The metal wound around the lower pitched strings is different than the solid inner wire so if the strings are coiled and dipped, the windings could get damaged to the point of breaking worst case or at least a shortened lifetime. I think your snake oil assumption is correct but if you give it a try be sure to let us know what happens.
  10. Hello Temas, I have a 1969 ES-335 and I love it. I also had a 2008 Custom Shop Larry Carlton signature model which is based on Larry's 1968 335. I also have small hands and like the thinner neck. The Larry Carlton has the exact neck profile as my '69. You can probably get a used one of these for half the price of a vintage. Good luck in your search. I put both of mine up on Reverb and decided to keep the one that didn't sell. I got $3300 for the Carlton in absolute mint condition. I've seen them less than perfect for $2500 or so. I was trying to get $5500 for the '69. Good luck in your quest, JO'C
  11. Hello Orys, Nice vintage ES guitar. Serial number indicates 1970 and Gibson discontinued the orange sticker in 1970. When they switched to the rectangular labels in 1970, they also started stamping Made in USA on the back of the headstock. The knobs and pegs are not original but that's no big deal.
  12. I have the Gibson Electric Serialization chapter from the 11th Edition Blue Book of Electric Guitars which indicates that serial# is either 1966 or 1969. I have a 1969 with S/N 833616 that originally I thought was a '66. The only way to be sure is to remove one of the pots and get the date code. Mine was dated 1968 so the guitar is an early 1969. The trapeze and the bridge on the 330 look identical to the ones on my '69.
  13. Grog is correct. The made in USA stamp was introduced in 1970 and the 70's label is inside the f-hole, which I hadn't noticed until I zoomed the pic. Volutes were started in late '69. My '69 also has an open "O" at the top of Gibson on the headstock decal, whereas Sam's and the '72 in Grog's link have a closed "O". I don't remember what year Gibson went back to the 1 11/16" nut width but that might help pin it down further along with no "Gibson" stamp on the pickup covers. I'm guessing '70 or '71.
  14. Interesting, so not '64 or '65. It has a volute so it's likely a later 1969. My '69 does not have a volute but '69 was a transition year. Have the shop pull a pickup and look at the back. Mine are the black Pat No. sticker. Later '69 has a different sticker on back, purple and white if I remember correctly.
  15. Hello Sam, The first # is difficult to see. If it's a 1 then it is 174410 which would put it as a 1964 or 1965. Gibson serial numbers were all over the place in the mid to late '60's. I have a 1969 and the headstock, trapeze and knobs and general layout look very similar but... 1966-1969 had a narrower nut width 1 9/16". A 64 or 65 should have a 1 11/16" nut width. To be sure you could pull one of the pots to look at the date code on the back. My '69 serial number could have been from '66 or '69 so I had to look at the pot date which revealed that the pot was made in 1968, making '66 not possible. To safely remove a pot I pull the knob and tie a thread to the shaft before loosening the nut. Once the nut is removed you can push the shaft to lower the pot into the body cavity and you can then pull it over to the f-hole so you can see the #'s on the bottom. Once done you can pull the thread to get the pot back into its mounting hole. You might also be able to read the pot code without removing by using a mirror on a stick with a flashlight. In my case the #'s were obscured with solder and oxidation so I had to remove one. If I remember correctly there are some letters, CTS maybe and then the first # is the year. If the pot dates as '63 the guitar is likely an early '64. If it dates '64 it may be a '64 or 65 and you may never know for sure but both those years should be about the same value. Good luck in your quest, JO'C
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