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About JO'C

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    Guitar playing and collecting (electric, acoustic, bass), jamming with my band, playin' the Blues, Classic and Southern Rock. Sound engineering and recording.
  1. The single ring tuners were on the guitar when I got it but they are not exact period correct either. They stay in tune well which is more important to me. The bridge has the original nylon saddles which can be a bit problematic when bending strings. Sometimes they pop off. I had a '66 ES-335-12, 12 string version. Too many strings in too narrow a neck for my liking. I got it with Schaller's installed and the original Klusons in the case. They were junk so I didn't put them back on. I had no trouble selling it for top dollar. I think people realize they get swapped out for a reason.
  2. Yes I can see the original Kluson holes. The good news is when you change them back the other holes will be covered. I just remembered something else. When I was trying to date my 335 I used a small mirror on a telescoping, pivoting stick and a flashlight down the f-hole to see a mirror image of the back of the pot. Didn't work out for me because the closest pot had solder and corrosion obscuring the number, but you may want to give that a try. Here are some pics of my 335. I think it is the same 2-tone sunburst as yours. Also the headstocks look to be the same. I wasn't so lucky with the peg change. The Schaller peg holes are outside the perimeter of the Klusons. I'm not sure about 175's but 335's in '66-'69 have a smaller nut width, 1 9/16" vs 1 11/16. If it is the same for 175's that might eliminate or confirm '65.
  3. Hi tsol, Nice guitar. Unfortunately Gibson had lots of serial numbers out of sequence in the 1966-1969 era. I have a 1969 ES-335. The serial # could have been from '66 or '69 based on the best source I've found, the 11th Edition Blue Book of Electric Guitars. The Guitar Dater Project tends to have lots of erroneous info. Your S/N has possibilities of being '65, '66, 68, '69. I thought my 335 was a '66 until someone questioned that based on the knobs, which are the same as yours. In the end to be sure I removed one of the pots and the date code was 1968 making it being a '66 impossible. If you tie a thread or fishing line to the shaft of the pot before removing the nut, it is a lot easier to pull it back into the hole after you look at it. In the 335 there is enough slack in the wire to pull the pot into the f-hole so you can see the numbers. The first number should be the year the pot was made so the guitar will likely be that year or the next. I'm not familiar with the tuning pegs that are on it. Does it look like there were different mounting holes ever or does it look like the pegs are in the original holes? There were a lot of problems with Kluson tuners of this era staying in tune. Most swapped them out for Schaller's which require new holes to be drill in the headstock. Mine had been switched to Schaller's and back to Kluson's before I got it so there are extra holes in the back of the headstock. If it is a '69 it should have double ring tulip tuners that are engraved Gibson Deluxe. '65-'66 would be similar but engraved Kluson Deluxe. Good luck figuring out the year, JO'C
  4. Turns out mine had the same thing happen and then period correct tuners were re-installed. Extra holes don't look too bad when the stock tuners are put back on. But... the originals were likely replaced for a reason, most likely because they wouldn't hold tuning. This was a common problem with the Klusons.
  5. Hello Hutch, From what I could read of the serial# it looks to be a 1965 if the serial# has 6 digits. I have a 1969 ES-335 TD. The T is for thinline. The D is for dual pickup and in the case of this guitar the C is for Cherry finish. Here are some pics of mine: The cases are quite alike as are the knobs and headstock. If it's a '65 the nut width should be 1 11/16". '66-'69 had a narrower nut width of 1 9/16". Schaller tuning pegs were added at some point as the original Klusons are in the Schaller box. The will affect the value somewhat since new holes had to be drilled to mount the Schaller's. If it's a '65 and plays and sounds well it should be worth $5K or more. If it goes out of tune every time the Bigsby is touched, maybe not. It all depends whether it's a good functional guitar. There is one in excellent condition on Reverb.com for $13,500. Keep us posted if you get it, JO'C
  6. And here's the rest of the story. Vai was the devil and a combo including Arlen Roth and Ry Cooder did the other stuff. Arlen used to sell lessons on VHS tapes back in the day. https://www.guitarworld.com/artists/forgotten-guitar-crossroads-and-its-unsung-guitar-hero-arlen-roth
  7. A few years ago Gibson stopped calling the 339 Custom Shop guitars since they were being more massed produced. The ME designates Gibson Memphis. They also did this with Larry Carlton and Warren Haynes signature model ES-335's. I have a 2008 Larry Carlton that has a CS (Custom Shop) serial number but newer ones have the ME. So I think the 339 you are looking at is a 2013 and that is the transition year for that model so probably made later in the year and is likely still made in the exact same manner.
  8. Hi i'm Anna.

    I am looking for a gentle and SEXy man

    My photo hеrе https://sex-gibson.tumblr.com

    Kisses JO'C

  9. I started selling on Reverb about 2 1/2 years ago after not having much luck with eBay. I sold one guitar on eBay but that was it. I've sold over $40K worth of guitars, amps and pro audio gear, mostly high end stuff on Reverb. I've never had a single return and have a 5 star seller rating. My advice is to take too many pictures showing lots of detail and choose the pics that look the best. I use 2 camera lights hitting the target from different angles to get rid of the shadows and glare. A nice professional background for the pics is also important. I usually put the guitar on a stand in front of a nice vintage amp stack to give it the feel of a studio setting. A detailed, honest description is also important. If there is a chip or ding, make sure you have a pic of it and describe it so there are no surprises when the customer opens the box. I always vacuum, clean and Armor-All the cases. It only takes a few minutes and shows the customer that you care. If there is any case candy or COA make sure there are pics of these. I price my items 15-20% higher than I would like to get. Buyers nearly always try to talk you down a bit. Plus Reverb has periodic sales you can join that give a 15% discount and the buyer cannot make a lower offer than the sale price. Reverb emails all their customers notifying them of sales so traffic picks up. I use $100 as a shipping price for guitars. This is based on the cost to ship from the east coast to the west coast. If the buyer questions it I will give them the actual cost to ship to them but this rarely happens. I use Reverb checkout for payment. They handle all the credit card and PayPal stuff. Once you become a preferred seller. You get paid the same day you supply the tracking#. Reverb has tutorials on proper packing techniques for both guitars and amps. Most of it is pretty basic. I always loosen the tuning pegs a couple of turns to reduce neck tension and bubble wrap the headstock just enough to prevent it from moving in the case. Then I bubble wrap the case and slide it into the box with foam protection at each end of the box. Reverb does sell boxes but I get mine from Uline. They are cheaper but you have to buy 6 at a time. I always send the buyer a message letting him know that I reduced the string tension and if it's going to a cold area in winter I advise them to let the case slowly come to room temp before opening. FEDEX Ground is my choice for shipping guitars since they treat their packages much better than UPS or USPS. Most importantly I require a signature upon delivery which adds $5-$7 to the shipping cost. This prevents the items from being left on a porch in the cold or worse, getting stolen. And it gives proof of delivery. I knew next to nothing about selling and shipping guitars when I got into this and now it has turned into a nice little side business.
  10. Looks great. Also looks like they did a real good job of replication of a '69. Here's a pic of my '69 for comparison.
  11. I have both, a 2003 Johnny A. S/N JA 024 from the initial production run and a 2004 custom one-off CS-336; pictured here with my Larry Carlton 335. Tone-wise they are very close. The Johnny A. does have an arched top. The 336 is my favorite by far over the Johnny A., 335 or LP. It has great balance, playability and great upper fret access. I find the longer scale length of the Johnny A. to be quite strange. While the length is the same as a Fender, it is very un-Fender like. I can switch between a Strat and a Gibson without any issues, but the Johnny A, is just different and it takes me a few minutes to adjust. It probably has more to do with the fretboard radius and profile of the neck than the scale length. When I first got it the tuning went out every time I touched the Bigsby. My tech dressed the nut and the problem went away. The Johnny A. is a strikingly beautiful guitar with lots of bling. Even the case is super fancy, all contributing to a much higher price.
  12. JO'C

    CS 336

    Sorry for late reply, was away on a trip. I definitely feel the same way. When I got mine I had 5 Les Pauls. Now I'm down to 2 and they rarely see the light of day. My 336 gets 90% of my playing time. I also have a Larry Carlton Custom Shop 335 which is also a fine guitar but the smaller body and 2 lb less weight of the 336 makes it a dream to play all night standing. And the upper fret access is way better than a LP. Tonewise it's right between the LP and 335. Gives me all the versatility I need. The only issue is that it's too nice to bring to a gig. Here she is, a 2004 custom order one-off in tangerine burst quilt. Custom appointments are gold hardware, ebony fretboard, pearloid dots and of course the top. It's almost a CS-356 minus the rectangular fret markers.
  13. I'm a chemist but I've worked in the laser industry for the past 36 years. About 16 years ago I had an installation at a solar plant in Williamsburg, VA. My business partner, also a chemist was on the trip. We stayed at an Embassy Suites because they had a free happy hour every night. One night we bumped into a guy who was a chemist for Anheiser-Busch who was visiting the Williamsburg Bud plant. We got to talking about the free rot-gut booze and he told us that his specialty was alcohol chemistry and he not only knew beer but also had studied Scotch Whiskey making in Scotland. He told us something that sticks with me to this day: "The more you pay for your booze, the less poison it has in it". And it's true. The Popov, Calvert, etc. give a much worse hangover because of all the poison. They are only distilled once, whereas Tito's Vodka is distilled six times which is why it costs more. Sugar and alcohol also don't mix well in the body. That's why MD 20/20, Southern Comfort, White Zinfandel, Riunite (we used to say it was Italian for Ruin Your Night) and Richard's Wild Irish Rose give the worst hangovers. Too much sugar. So as I've gotten older and hopefully wiser, I only drink top shelf liquor and don't get very many hangovers.
  14. Nice Ice blue Tele thejay. Here are my ice blue siblings, a '57 and '62 AVRI's from 2001.
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