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Everything posted by Blueman335

  1. On the Duncan site, some of us 250K's on our bridge HB's and P-90's for the warmth, but we all use 500K's on the neck.
  2. Actually, wouldn't we be know as 'the colonies' over here, not the states.
  3. I thought all the Epi push-pulls were for coil cut, not parallel. Hmmm... Let us know when you take it apart. I like coil cut much better than parallel.
  4. There you go! I sold my Lucille because the neck was extremely thin (and I have big hands). I'd have kept it if it was normal size or larger.
  5. +1. They're all over the map. I think that's a good thing. You can get the model you want with the neck you want, with a little looking.
  6. Epi necks vary a lot, even on the same model. I knew a guy that bought a Dot Studio only because it had a fat neck. I have a regular Dot that has a thick '58 type, but most Dot's I've played have normal necks. I think Epiphone and Gibson intentionally vary the neck sizes so players can choose which they like best. Don't go by model, best to play it yourself or have it measured if you buy it online.
  7. Not for me. That makes it much harder for me to adjust. There's a reason why they point the way they do.
  8. Every guitarist should have Dan Erlewine's book 'How to make your electric guitar play and sound great.' You can get it online at StewMac. Everything you need to know about set ups.
  9. Yes! There's a number of HB-sized P-90's available these days. They ARE the real single coil (not Leo's skinny little copies that came later). GFS makes some affordable ones that sound pretty good. They're called Mean 90's (not Dream 90's). Get a pair and they'll fit right in HB slots. They have more treble and less mids than HB's, and will give you that open, single coil sound.
  10. Excellent call. That's what I think happened too. When that happens to me, I put a piece of tape between the solder/lug and the shielding paint. Grounds can't touch the hot wires and lugs.
  11. I would like to see a higher percentage of '58's in that circle of V's. And the pink one would have to go. ;)
  12. Good lord! And my wife thinks I overdo it.
  13. +1. We all make mistakes. Sounds like a ground wire or excess solder is shorting out the toggle. Make sure your work is clean, not one strand of wire loose and no solder drips.
  14. Nice score. Like my LP's heavy! The toggle is an easy fix. Take off the big nut on teh front of the toggle, so you can pull it out (leave all the wires connected). Then look at the prongs as you flip it back and forth. You'll see where it's making conenction and where it's not. All you have to do is slightly bend a prong or two to get it working right. To prevent that from happeneing again, keep the toggle in the middle position when you're not plugged into an amp, so it doesn't gradually stress the prongs and bend them out of position. Metal fatigue happens eventually if there's pr
  15. Interesting. I'd like to see more colors too in limited editions, like (dark) British racing green, and some of the colors Gibson's used in their SG's, like firemist red, saphire blue, & emerald green.
  16. Beautiful guitar! Excellent choice! I have a couple of Epi '58 V's myself. An ebony and a kornia that I put a black pickguard on. Both have upgraded PU's (Schallers in the ebony and Dimarzios in the korina). They sound great now. I have, and have owned, a lot of set-neck Epi's, and I prefer the recent production, whether MIC or MIK. When faced with a choice, I'll go with the Chinese. Quality's always been very good and they're more consistent than older Koreans.
  17. The quality on older MIK's (before 2000) is inconsistent, some are definitely better than others. I think the current MIC's are the best and most consistent. A real problem with 10+ year old Epi's is fret wear, they don't use as good a metal as Gibsons. You do not want to pay for a refretting. I won't buy a pre-2000 Epi because of that, unless the buyer can assure me that the frets have little wear (I've gotten most of my guitars online). I feel very confident buying a recent production Epi, MIC or MIK. All the ones I've seen have been excellent. Something you need to know is
  18. If it worked until last week, there's a loose wire.
  19. The PU's should be 1/8" to 1/16" from the strings when you press the strings down on the highest fret. A bridge PU should never be below the plastic ringwith a Gibson-design guitar. That's why it's loose, there's no tension in the height spings. Adjust the height with the two height screws, one at the top and one at the bottom of the PU. That way you get the best tone and output.
  20. +1. The weakest link I've found on Epi's is the PU's. Upgrade those and you get close to Gibson territory tone-wise. Do you have BBP's (A5) or the numbered BB's (A2)? I like the BB1 and BB2 best. Vintage PAF tone. Duncan Seth's are also excellent.
  21. Great! Love the bigger inlays and coil cuts. Epi did a nice job on these.
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