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jchabalk

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Everything posted by jchabalk

  1. I got a pretty noticeable increase in acoustic volume and general resonance. I guess having a partially loose tailpiece anchoring the strings makes a difference. who'd have thunk it?? 🤣 I just popped the strap on it and being able to confidently take it off an on is a real luxury with this thing. glad i went ahead and addressed this.
  2. I agree, i don't like those knobs either. What are the right ones to have on that guitar? I have a suspicion that i'm going to figure out that there's something wrong with the electronics which may lead to some parts substitution - is that a bad idea on a guitar like this?
  3. Thanks for the feedback and recommendations on my tailpiece questions the last couple of days, i figured i'd start a new thread for this topic. I have a '53 ES-175d with the original electronics installed, which include 2x p90s. The sound when plugged in is generally pretty dark and boomy (it's different using different amps, but generally always dark, and i can't change it significantly with the tone controls on the guitar or amp). Here are a few pictures of the guitar - i didn't realize the forums only allows 40kb of image attachments I don't really mess with this guitar too much mostly because of the aforementioned tailpiece / endpin issues its had, but not that i've resolved them i want to spend a lot more time with it. It plays pretty similar to my J45 - which is very comfortable to me. So i'm wondering if there's a good starting polepiece height i can use - i've found advice on this online but it's all for modern guitars with modern humbucking pickups (so far). The guitar is strung with D'Addario XL 11-49 (w/ wound third) which were recommended to me when i bought it and i really like the way they feel (again, similar to an acoustic with the wound third). The pickups readings are a bit odd - and maybe are indicating a problem with the electronics The bridge pickup reads 9.1k ohms although if i roll the volume pot from 10 -> 5 -> 10 it'll jump to 14k and kind of slowly fall to ~10k ohms The neck pickup is reading 13.1 -14.2k ohms (it's bouncing around) In the middle position i get 6.2k ohms
  4. I'm going to give the pencil a shot, seems like a good way to do it. i late leaving tape on there.
  5. I might have this all sorted out. I've had this guitar for maybe 5 years but i got it set up maybe 4 years ago and haven't adjusted it much since. I went ahead and pulled the tailpiece off tonight. 1 of the screw holes was mostly stripped, 1 was about to be stripped (really light grip) and the other was holding pretty well. I put a toothpick in each hole with some tightbond on it, snipped it off flush with the guitar body (under the tailpiece) and screwed them in - all 3 have a good tight bite now. Before doing that i reamed the endpin hole very lightly to make sure the hole matched a 5 degree endpin i have, then built the endpin up a bit with sawdust and super glue until it stood proud of the tailpiece by about 1/8" - then scuffed up the new super glue layer a bit, put some titebond on it and rapped it home with the head of a screwdriver (i used this same method to fix the same problem i was having with a M-brand guitar). I brought the strings back up to tension and got the intonation pretty much spot on. I'm going to let it sit until the morning for the glue to cure. Is there a good way to mark the bridge position that doesn't leave a permanent mark? (I'll look around too, i just figured i'd ask here too).
  6. I'm kind of thinking the same. I could also plug the hole completely and install a screw in endpin like the modern Gibsons use. I don't want to do anything untoward here but i do want to not have to deal with the strap problem, and also not to drop it (that's kind of my highest priorty).
  7. The guitar hole is larger (slightly) than the tailpiece hole, so to get the endpin in at all the only thing holding it is the thin metal of the tailpiece and it immediately works its way loose. It's fine when i'm play it's when i put the guitar down for a minute it immediately falls out.
  8. Hi there, wondering if anyone can help me with this. I have a 50's ES-175d that i love, but the strap situation causes me frustration. I've been using a strap that attaches to the endpin and loops over the headstock, it works great and i use it on other acoustics as well. The root of the problem is that the hole in the guitar is a different size from the hole in the metal tailpiece, so basically the metal tailpiece is what's (not) holding the endpin in place. I'm nearly at the point of taking the tailpiece off, gluing and filling the hole in the guitar, and attaching a new screw-in endpin but i don't want to unnecessarily devalue the guitar. I'm not opposed to taking this to a luthier, just mostly looking for suggestions. I have the original 50s white plastic endpin but stopped using it in favor of a new ebony one since they all just keep falling out.
  9. That guitar was the 1369th guitar made on Friday February 16, 2007 YdddYNNNN YY = year (07=2007 etc) D=day of the year [1-365] (047 = 2/16/07) NNNN = guitar made that day (1369 = it was a long day of work on friday) To get the more detailed information you're looking for you need to contact Gibson customer service directly.
  10. It's the distant cousin to the Dove - the Gibson Pigeon. If you're not careful it'll poop on your head 😉
  11. yeah +1 - check out those vintage/true vintage ones before you make a decision. they're the cat's pajamas
  12. Haven't you guys seen the Gibson Guitarrón Mexicano line before? That looks like the GM-45 crossover model. slope with steel strings instead of gut 😎
  13. Some more pictures of the overall guitar - as well as the headstock - would be useful. Parts of it look good, parts of it looks suspicious (aka: not gibson) it's tough to tell from the images though.
  14. The apogee has a special cable connector right? I thought at some point they had a version with a mini usb connection on the MiC. An option to consider similar to that is the Blue Raspberry or the Shure MVx mics/interfaces (MV51) - these are both micro usb and usbc -> micro usb are readily available. I find at least with the ipad that i’m more apt to use it to record if i make it as simple as possible. Once i’ve got to bring a bunch of other stuff i tend to use a regular computer and audio interface.
  15. One thing i forgot to check yesterday is how the pins are drilled in the bridge. From what i've read gibson drills the holes straight through whereas Martin tapers the hole. If the hole in the bridge is tapered to the same angle as the bridge pin there will be more purchase on the mechanical connection between the pin and the bridge/top/plate which should result in a stronger connection.
  16. My guitar is a 2008 J-45. It's got an Adi top and is one of the guitars the set that became the "TV" line a few months later. For strings I use either John Pearse PB Mediums or D'Addario EJ17 Medium PB. I was messing with my bridge pins today and had a few questions so i figured i'd share. I ordered a set of antique acoustics J45 to try out. This started because after a recent setup and i was trying to figure out if i should get the bridge pin holes tapered so the pins fit in there a little more tightly and consistently. I also don't have much saddle left on the guitar and so slotting the holes to increase string angle came up which got me exploring this. For kicks i tried out the original white plastic pins that came with the guitar from the factory, i've had a hybrid set of ebony (EAD) and water buffalo horn (GBE) in there for the last 10 years or so and never found any issue with them. The white plastic factory pins seat in there real well and tend to pitch to an angle under tension. The hybrid set i've been running don't sit perfectly but they stay put, and the antique acoustics sit up about 1/4+" proud of the bridge - so either they need to be shaved down or the holes need to be reamed to make those fit properly. I've been searching around a little and i know i'm opening up pandora's box here but i'm wondering if tapering the holes for a solid fit and notching the bridge is a worthwhile for the guitar long-term. To be honest when i had the "antique acoustic" pins in the guitar it sounded like crap (relatively speaking) but i don't think they were able to properly lock the strings in due to being so much larger than the holes. I've got it back with the larry cragg i've been using - couldn't tell any difference in sound between the factory plastics and the hybrid set, but i like the black pins better. I measured each set of pins with a caliper as i was changing them out, checking taper using this site: ------------------------------ Antique Acoustics - 5 degree taper Collar: 5.56mm Heel: 4.65mm ------------------------------ Larry Cragg Hybrid - 4 degree taper (the high e broke while i was tuning up) Collar: 5.54mm Heel: 4.77mm ------------------------------ Gibson Plastic Whites - 6 degree taper Collar: 5.33mm Heel: 4.2mm
  17. Here's another thread on the same guitar - they've got a little more discussion on it. Forum Thread
  18. I've kind of settled on mediums for my J-45 and i've been keeping lights on my 200 but i might switch it up again next time i change strings. enjoy! that's a beautiful guitar you have
  19. This is from the Musician's Friend page on that guitar: Strings: .012" - .052" Gibson Light Guage (They misspelled gauge but probably have it right that it shipped with lights, you could try mediums, you might like it. the guitar can certainly handle it)
  20. crappy flat-picker here. I kind of feel like the short scale and/or 1-11/16" nut and string spacing is more of a thing than the fretboard radius (for me anyway). I kind of got used to it - and i've got bigger problems to sort out with my playing 😉 I do kind of want to get a D-18 though The difference is minimal, but there is a difference:
  21. Its tough to tell but that might be a J-45 - the serial number should be on neck block visible inside the sound hole. Someone more familiar with these things will be able to tell you with more confidence than i can. Do you have any more pictures (I wish this sort of thing happened in my family 😉 )
  22. Does it say anything on the underside of the bridge?
  23. It was built right towards the end of 2015 likely in preparation for their 2016 model year - they're a little loose around that sort of thing. You can always contact Gibson with the serial number and they should be able to get you the specs, model etc... It's a great looking guitar, enjoy it. You made a good choice 😎
  24. Sure looks real to me! 😉 The epiphone ej-200n (n=natural color top). It's the epiphone version - or maybe inspired by - the gibson sj-200. It looks like it's been used and played. There's nothing in the pictures to suggest that there's a problem with it - if you're just learning how to play your best bet is to get a set of light acoustic phosphor-bronze strings ("12's") and a tuner (or tuner app on your phone). If you don't know how to string it up there are a bunch of youtube videos. You could buy strings at any local music store or Amazon. If there's a guitar shop near you they'd probably string it up for you and check it out for a minimal charge, they'd likely have strings for you too. Good luck with it
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