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Dave F

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Dave F last won the day on December 12 2019

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About Dave F

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  • Birthday March 28

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    Bluegrass State

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  1. I tried one and was impressed. The walnut definitely has a different tone. I’ve had two walnut guitars (AJ and a JB) and thought they were very bright and loud.
  2. from https://www.gearank.com/articles/guitar-string-types Brass and Bronze There are two main types of string for steel string acoustic guitars: brass plated and bronze plated. The actual wires are made from steel, hence the name “steel string acoustic guitar.” There isn’t a ton of difference in feel between these two types of strings, but there’s a huge difference in response. As a general rule, brass strings are always going to be brighter than bronze strings. Though, counterintuitively, many brass strings go by the moniker of “80/20” bronze. These strings are actually the one in the same. Brass, or 80/20 bronze as it’s often known, is made from 80% copper and 20% zinc. This gives the strings a bright and cutting voice, though when used on guitars that already have a prominent high-end response it can make an instrument sound thin and tinny. For best results, use brass strings on a guitar that’s an OM size or larger (so this would include OM guitars, dreadnoughts, and jumbos). Phosphor bronze strings have a warmer sound with a smooth (if somewhat understated) high end response. This makes them a great fit for genres that benefit from a mellower tone, like a lot of folk or finger-style work. These strings pair well with smaller bodied guitars, though many musicians who play more relaxed genres prefer these strings on larger bodied instruments as well. So basically, if you want a brighter tone go for brass (80/20 bronze) guitar strings. If you want a richer and more mellow tone go with phosphor bronze.
  3. Entire fretboard. They usually have rosewood inlaid fret markets. I’m sure there are some variances. A few of our members have some of the vintage ones. I have an RI from ‘94. They’ve since issued an Elvis Costello signature version.
  4. Dave F


    Nothing wrong about a D41. One of my favorite guitars.
  5. Not a reissue on the ‘53, just overspray
  6. How soon we forget! Here's the '53 J50 I had for while And what about the LG1 comparison? The RI is the same guitar John Thomas used to compare to his LG1 Here's John with the same RI guitar. This is probably a first. Two different comparison's with one guitar in common.
  7. Rick wasn't keen on the Martin Custom Light 80/20 SP's
  8. Where you located? there's some very capable luthiers out there that someone could recommend depending where you are. I'm in Northern KY in the Greater Cincinnati area. I highly recommend Jamonn Zeiler. He's done almost anything imaginable for me.
  9. Dave F


    Thanks Nick! I’ll keep that in mind, especially about the glue. I’ll be sure to keep it away from a pick guard area
  10. Dave F


    Nick, From what I read outside their website, it does have silicon and can cause problems if you do a refinish unless you are aware of it and know what to do, I've never had a guitar refinished. I know this kind of information is your area of expertise. Are there other issues I should be concerned about? Thanks, Dave
  11. Dave F


    For the first time I tried this. Just a dab on a microcloth and some elbow grease. It's given me the best results. When I bought the Honky Tonk Deuce it had the 'tuner on the headstock blemish'. I tried a few things on it but nothing did great. I just tried this stuff on it this morning. Not bad.
  12. Dave F


    After letting it set for the day, the low action was buzzing and fretting out around the 10th fret. I reduced the relief from .030" to .003" and the high E was on the frets.. I stripped it down, cleaned it up, buffed out the pick scratches (there were a lot of them below the neck in front of the pickguard), buffed out a few more scuffs marks, buffed out the marks on the headstock from leaving a tuner on it and oiled the fretboard and bridge. I measured the existing saddle and found one from a SJ200 I used to have that looked close to what I wanted. I never modify an original saddle, I mark it and make a new one if needed but I'll use them in other guitars if the fit the need. Put it back together with new strings and it came out very nice. At the 12th, base E is .065" and high E is .040"
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