Dave F

Just from my experience, the standard factory setup from Martin and Gibson are close. Neck relief set at .004" to .010". Personally I target .000" to .005". For the nut- Target-wise, at the first fret the treble E at the 1st fret is .012" increasing .002 per string with the bass E at .022". I believe these are the pleck targets also. At the 12th fret, the treble E at .062" to .078" increasing about .004" per string with the bass E at .093" to .109". I prefer a low setting starting .040" to.050" going up to .060" to .070". Here's an old Martin spec sheet that talks in fractions that may h

Looks like he did not stay around very long

I wasn't trying to bash Taylor and Martin, I have and like both brands. I don't like the business practice that they have to leave the country to make an affordable guitar. They should not have their name on them. Electric-wise I dislike Fender doing this when they have the Squire line. I have Fenders and a Squire was my main guitar for years.

$999 USA made. I don't see Martin and Taylor doing this. Gibson G-45 Studio Acoustic-Electric Guitar (with Case) Body- Shape: J-45- Back & Sides: Walnut- Top: Sitka spruce- Binding: Multi-ply topNeck- Neck: Utile- Prole: Advanced Response- Nut width: 1.725" / 43.82mm- Fingerboard: Walnut- Scale length: 24.75" / 628.65mm- Number of frets: 20- Nut: Tusq- Inlay: Dot inlayHardware- Bridge: Traditional belly up, walnut- Tuners: Mini Grover RotomaticElectronics- Controls: Sound hole mounted controls- Case: G-Series Hardshell- Electronics: Fishman Sonitone https://www.zzounds.com/it

Ditto. My luthier hates to do neck resets on Gibson's made after 1959. I don't know what the significance of after that year is.

Just guessing that a 13 fretter long scale may push it deeper than a 12 fretter short scale? The long scale should be more powerful.

The headstock was shown in an earlier thread

I enjoy making saddles. I’m have a few tools that help. I have it down to a science. I measure the string height with the old saddle, measure the saddle on the end string locations and make the new saddle with the adjustment. Works every time.

I recently traded my Reverb Deluxe in a package deal and needed to replace it with something. I went shopping and decided on the Twin Reverb Tone Master. I liked the sound, the weight and the 5-way power attenuator . Makes it nice for home use being able to turn the power down and still adjust the controls to get the sound you want.

Can't help you but if you post some pictures we'll ooh and awe, Here's a few of mine.

They're thinner.

Here's ad's for the L200 . Looks like the ad started showing up in 2002 http://web.archive.org/web/20040701005931/http://www.gibson.com:80/acoustics/guitars/l-series/EmmylouPdf.pdf http://web.archive.org/web/20020804215653/http://www.gibson.com:80/acoustics/guitars/L-Series/l-200.html

As with any guitars the same model can very from one to another. I had an Everly J180. Thinner body was comfortable but I was unimpressed unplugged. I had a J185 and was very impressed with it.

Don't give up on it so easily A good luthier can run a die on the rod and add some threads. I've also added a washer under the nut to give me a couple extra threads.

Measure the width of the lower bout. The tight waisted jumbo shape sizes are j200 17” j180 16” j185 is a thicker version j165 15”