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About My335

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  1. I'm having a lil' trouble locating the proper TOM for my 335. The post spacing, ctr-to-ctr is 2.825, with my digital cals. I've checked Mojo and Stew Mac so far. Any input appreciated.
  2. A blueprinted or homebrew AA1164, the vaunted Princeton Reverb. With the Paul C mod. Hands down does it all. My recently acquired Epi 335, with Fralin Pure PAFs, is awesome through my DIY Princeton Reverb. PM me and I'll give you the lowdown...or the highup!
  3. Got them from Mojo as drop in replacements. Having little experience with Epi and upgrades, lookin' for any leg-up. Thanks.
  4. I'm going to swap out the stock Tune-O-Matic bridge and stop tailpiece for a Gotoh TOM with aluminium and brass saddles. And a Gotoh stop tailpiece. Any issues, I should expect to encounter? I've read some things elsewhere regarding "forcing" parts, etc. Any info appreciated. Thanks.
  5. A quick shout out to the model ID gurus who inhabit this thread, member Paul Fox (pfox14) has an excellent site with a wealth of information on old Gibsons and Epiphones, mainly pre 1960 stuff but I'm sure you'll find something there interesting to peruse. He also does restorations, some of which have great progress photos, I found that very interesting, YMMV. Well anyway, he graciously responded with MIK, April, 2000. So, that's done. Thanks for the link.
  6. Sorry I didn't get these up sooner. From all your input and from what I've been able find out, I'm still baffled. Except one post, Barcham stated if it had 3 screws in TRC, it's not MIJ. Well, she's got 3 so, she's not MIJ, but that ser. # has got me stumped. Thanks, guys.
  7. Barcham, The zero(s)do not appear to be "O"s in this serial #. Your comment of not ever seeing a # longer than 6 characters has me puzzled. I wonder what kind of a hybrid this might be? If you compare a zero to the O in "DOT" above the number, they're different. Any suggestions, folks? Also, the p'ups have 57CH(G) stickers on the back; one with an "F" stamp and the other with an "R" on the left side and "H" on the right. They're wax potted with the covers soldered on.
  8. From myguitarguide.com RE: Epi335 For an example, let’s choose the serial number from the guitar on the right: example:I04031245 This is what each character means: “I” = Factory/Country “04″ = Year of Manufacture (2004) “03″ = Month of Manufacture (March) “1245″ = Manufacturing Number This is the factory/country code “cheatsheet”: KOREA: I= Saein, U=Unsung, S=Samick, P or R=Peerless CHINA: DW=DeaWon, EA=Gibson/QingDao, EE=Gibson/QingDao, MC=Muse, SJ=SaeJung, Z=ZaozhuangSaehan, BW=China JAPAN: No letter or F=FujiGen,J or T=Terada INDONESIA: SI=Samick So t
  9. Boy, that Silvertone Amp, far left in the pic, looks just like what I started out playin' bass through. That and a Utah 15" run from the ext. spkr. jack. The OP tranny must've been under one helluva stress! Long before I knew anything about tube amps. Now, I just build my own...
  10. Hi, Well, I'm new here and decided to join due to my recent acquisition. Picked up an Epi ES 335. The ser. # is 00040006. From the info I can find, it's a MIJ/Fujigen made in April of 2000. Is this info correct? Anyway, she's already under transformation with; Fralin Pure PAFs; water buffalo horn nut; frets leveled, dressed and polished; all new USA wiring harness, with new CTS pots, SBE Orange Drop .022 caps; Switchcraft jack and 3-way switch. New nickel Gotoh Tune-o-matic bridge with Gotoh nickel stop tailpiece. Came stock with Grover tuners. eBay score for $275. Definately been played for
  11. Amen to that Blueman335. Just picked up a 2000/Fujigen 335 and p'ups were ok. But, the Fralin Pure PAFs kick their arse. Playin' through my ToneMaster Reverb 6V6s, she kills. And that's not the only upgrades done to her. You and SNick said it well.
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