Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

Dave Lang

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dave Lang

  1. I'm using the latest version (10x) and it works fine. I wouldn't purchase the hardware based versions right now. Just buy the software only version if you want to try it out. Good luck!
  2. Hi Aster! I just started doing my own fretwork after I became disillusioned with the work of the luthiers in my area. StewMac has a selection of great tools that could help you and they have great instructional videos by Dan Erlewine re: fretwork. Having your guitar "set up" usually includes levelling, crowning, and polishing the frets, adjusting the neck (truss rod) and adjusting the string height at the nut and the saddle. It will definitely make a difference in playability. I think my advice to you in this case though would be to find a luthier you trust and take those guitars to him to get set up. Buying the tools and the video will cost almost as much as having someone set the guitars up once and those are pretty expensive instruments to learn on. I hacked away at my Epiphone Dobro and a J. Turser acoustic and am still not quite ready to do my ES-125 even though the results were quite good. Best of luck, dave
  3. argh! fyi The website says this guitar has a 12" radius neck. That's not correct - it's a 20" radius. I was dumb and took the website to be correct. So I bought a radius block from StewMac to level the frets which were pretty uneven. Then I noticed it was hitting the outside edges of the frets pretty hard so I checked it with my radius gauges. Darn. It's 20". So - ignore the website, it's wrong. This guitar has a 20" radius neck. For the next guy down the path.......
  4. Hey Jimmy - no argument here - I don't want a pre-aged instrument - my guitar usually gets beat up fast enough just from my carelessness. But I would like a guitar similar to my ES-125 that has a cutaway and a single pickup. That's what the VOS ES-175 is - kind of - would prefer dot inlays but whatever. I did find them listed on the Long & McQuade website for $4450 (I'm in Canada) tho I've never seen on in a store and they don't have any in stock. http://www.long-mcquade.com/products/16707/ For that much money I could get an old one from eBay that would have the tailpiece I prefer (solid vs. zig zag) and a P-90 vs. the big silver humbucker. I know there are other manufacturers making new guitars but I really like the conservative styling of the Gibson ES guitars. The other manufacturers always seem to want to put a big flashy headstock and gaudy logo on everything. Maybe it's so they don't get sued. My dream guitar would be that single pickup ES-175 with a P-90, solid tailpiece & dot inlays - new or used - I don't care! Wish someone would make it! This is pretty close tho.....itchy eBay fingers! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-GIBSON-ES-175-CC-CHARLIE-CHRISTIAN-VINTAGE-GUITAR?item=190670244747&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8186777324490566496#ht_13540wt_1345
  5. Thanks for the reply, StijnV! I still don't understand how I'd go about actually buying one tho...
  6. Does anyone know more about the single pickup version? I can't find it on the Gibson website. Also, since it's "custom" can you specify things like inlay style etc.? Are they built to order? It would be great to have one that's simple like an ES-125 but with the cutaway and a single pickup.
  7. I have the clip on Peterson and the iPhone APP version of the Peterson tuners. The iPhone APP version is just plain wonderful. It is easy to use, has the sweetened tunings as well as adjustments for Capo and non 440. The clip on tuner is frustrating. I find it difficult to "cage" and when I do get it caged, the resulting tuning sounds horrible so I end up going back to the iPhone APP. Hi drathbun - are you sure your version of the iPhone app has the sweetened tunings? I don't see that setting on mine. Always frustrated me since I have the pedal version.
  8. Hi! Someone who understands the mechanics of what's going on will probably chip in but here's my $.02 in case you're working on it today. The P90 you have was built without a braided ground wire the the other two wires run through. This doesn't prevent the pickup from working, it's just different, although it may make the pickup noisier as the braided ground may help block some interference. The pickup will work no matter which of the two wires you consider "hot" as long as you wire the other to ground. Like the way it was wired before. The previous installer used white as "ground" and black as "hot". It gets a bit more complicated since there are two pickups in the guitar. If the pickups are wired out of phase to each other they'll sound different. I don't know enough about this to explain it all to you but google will help. I would start by wiring it the way it was wired before. To hear the difference just reverse the white / black from the P90 and play it through an amp. Good luck! here's a discussion re: phase from another board http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/99707-my-pickups-out-phase.html and you probably have it already but here's the Gibson schematic for the Maurauder. http://www.gibson.com/Files/schematics/Marauder.PDF
  9. hmmm - seems like there's the cheap Chinese version (which is what I bought) and the US made version? (which I couldn't buy / afford for the gig I wanna use this guitar for). Thanks for answering Paul. Can you offer any advice re: the volume of the instrument? I'm going to be playing it acoustically outside (no amp) in standard tuning (no slide). It's louder than my ES-125 but not as loud as a boring old dreadnaught style guitar. Is that normal? I've never played a resonator guitar before so I don't know. Right now the sound level from the f-holes is almost the same as the sound level from the resonator. Gonna watch the Dan Erlewine set up video today and see if I can pick up any tips. ps - other than high action, which I expect is because most people will be playing slide with this, it's a pretty nicely finished guitar. One high fret and the screws on the truss rod cover are crooked but nothing that can't be fixed.
  10. oops - I think this should have been in the Epiphone forum
  11. wow - thanks zizala - I love it here! If I hadn't already ordered the other shims I'd take you up on the offer. If I have any problems making the shims I've ordered work I'll be in touch.
  12. Hi Joe - your friend might think that it's 1954 because that number (X926) looks like a Factory Order Number or "FON" and the letter prefix for 1954 was "X". I have a '54ish ES 125 that so far most people I've asked think is a '54 cause the closest thing to a number that can be found on it is "X249". Someone who knows more will probably show up soon. You've probably already found this site but if not: Vintage Guitars Info - Gibson August 1942 LG-1 introduction specs: 14 1/8" wide Spruce top, X-bracing, mahogany back, no lengthwise center seam on inside back mahogany sides, mahogany neck, rectangle bridge with black pins, single bound top and back sometimes darker sunburst finish (darker than the LG-2, to hide the lower quality spruce top). Only a Gibson is Good Enough" banner logo. Only about 100 made in 1942, production ceased until 1946. In 1946 the "banner" is dropped (still a script "Gibson" peghead logo). Bracing changed to ladder. In 1948 goes to a "block" Gibson peghead logo. In 1955 larger pickguard with point, and 20 frets total. In 1962 plastic upper belly bridge. $105 list price. In 1966 rosewood bridge with adjustable saddle was used. Discontinued in 1968 but seen as late as 1974.
  13. Thanks retrorod! The wax pencil number is on the treble side - double checked just now and can't see any other numbers in there. No one else has been able to either in the few years I've owned the guitar. When I take the pickup off next I'll use a mirror and look at the bottom of the top. One of the posts on this board suggested that a number could be found there occasionally. Not that the vintage really matters, just curious. re: the pickup cover / hole I finally got around to emailing Lollar about their shims and heard back right away. They sent me this spec sheet that shows their shims are not big enough to cover the enlarged hole in my guitar. Rats. Might work for someone else though. Then I found these shims from Allparts. Now we're talking. This ebay seller took the time to write down the measurements which was good of him - I couldn't find the specs on the Allparts site. I'll put them in this post in case that eBay listing goes away. "The measurements are 4 7/8" X 2", the mounting holes are 3 3/4" apart. The bridge spacer is 3/16", the neck is 1/8" tall. The finish is matte." I bought a set of those shims and plan to form them to the top like you would a bridge once they arrive. Just trying to decide whether to put that project in this thread or into it's own either here or in the repair section. thanks again everyone, dave PS - retrorod your post to me raised your total to 1953 - same year as your guitar!
  14. Forgot to thank pfox - I checked out the ES-125 rehab on your website - nice work! I think I'm going to get some radius gauges re: the neck and that makes sense re: the top.
  15. Thanks, Jim. All the electronics including the pickup were replaced before I bought the guitar. Since I bought it I've replaced the pots / wiring / cap as the wiring was a mess and there was a .047 uF cap in the tone circuit which I felt made the guitar too dark. Just to confirm - here's a scan of the pots I removed. I'm sure the knobs were aftermarket as well but just in case here they are. They're 11.25 mm (.44") high. The bridge base is solid. The grease pencil number looks unusual to me. Have you checked carefully for any stamped numbers inside? I looked on the back but I haven't used a mirror to look underneath the top. I think I'm going to start a repair thread re: my pickup spacing issue. When I take the pickup out again I'll check. Maybe a quick poll to those of you who've been around here for a while. Should I start a new thread in repairs re: my pickup spacing / cover project or just keep this one going? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to clutter this up.
  16. oops - sorry - I misread your post - it's a nearly new reissue guitar? sure I suppose mod away - maybe try and find humbuckers that fit tho first? (as Searcy suggested).
  17. Thanks for the reply, Sam. Here are some pictures of the Antiquity installed in my guitar. I think it would cover the hole if someone hadn't enlarged it in a misguided attempt to put a humbucker in it. This shows the shape of the Antiquity pretty well - you can see how it doesn't cover the hole perfectly on the lower left shoulder and the angle doesn't match the strings like it would with an original cover. (not the end of the world I guess) And another pic. One more from the side - in this one you can see that because the bottom of the cover is flat, it doesn't conform to the shape of the top and there's a gap under the screws - this means that there's a buzzing sound if the screws aren't REALLY tightened which makes me fear stripping the already worn screw holes in the braces - I have to figure out something for that - maybe a tiny rubber O ring on each side or find a bit larger cover or spacer (like these from Lollar) and shape it to the top - that would also have the benefit of covering the enlarged hole - I haven't gotten around to emailing Lollar for the measurements of the shims tho so I'm not sure they would fit any better. The Antiquity is 40mm across (1.58") so it would have to be larger than that to cover the big hole.... Which you can see in this photo - argh! Anyway, that's probably enough from me - maybe someone else will have some more info re: pickup cover solution, neck radius, top radius and age? Thanks for your help and good luck! Post some pictures when you're done!
  18. That 175 is my dream guitar orpheoet!
  19. Hi! I have what I think is an early '50s ES-125. It's been through the ringer over the years but I love it and it's been my main guitar since I got it in 2010. I'd like to try and nail down how old it is and then figure out one or two other things about the guitar. When I bought it I was told it was a '57 but there's a number written in wax pencil inside that makes me believe that it's a '54. The number is "X 249". Here's a pic through the pickup opening. The info on this website makes me think it might be a 1954 because the number starts with "X". Although I haven't seen any mention of wax pencil vs. stamped anywhere. Maybe it was a factory second or something? My next clue that confirms it's earlier than '55 is that it has 19 frets vs. 20. This thread contains some helpful info in that regard. But the same thread also says that post '52 the guitars no longer had a tapered headstock. I know mine has the tapered headstock cause it made it a headache to get replacement tuners for it! The posts closest to the nut are too short. Argh. Here's another picture. I won't be able to find anything out from the pots etc. because they've all been replaced long ago. In fact, someone butchered the top a bit trying to put a humbucker in it. You can just see the enlarged hole around the edges of the Seymour Duncan P-90 I put on it. Just in case anyone else reads this thread in the future I chose a Seymour Duncan "Antiquity" P-90 cause it's a low enough profile to fit under the strings. The ES 125 had a uniquely shaped pickup cover that's hard (impossible?) to find now. Anyone have any info they can share? In addition to what year it was made I'd like to know: - what was the original neck radius on these guitars? this one has sort of a compound radius now after partial refrets etc. over time. It needs some more fret work and I'd like to head towards the factory profile. - what is the radius of the top? - are there any tuning machines available these days that fit the tapered headstock better? - anyone know where I could find a pickup cover shaped like the original (other than eBay) Thanks! ps - here's a picture of the whole guitar
  • Create New...