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About spooki

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  1. Hey guys, good stuff and have enjoyed the education and ideas. I must thank Dewey for bringing this alive. It sat dormant for almost a month and now is alive. Sorry to say that I finally went to another site to get some answers. Thanks again and never to late too broaden the span of Q&A's.
  2. Thanks Dewey, much appreciated. The amps are a modified Peavey Windsor and a early 70's UniVox U255R with no standby.
  3. Hello again: Happy to say I have all my gear in good working order now. Pedals chained to desire, etc. and my two amps in stereo. I am also very happy to say that I am improving much faster now with the never ending learning curve. I guess you could say I'm past the curve of frustration and can't wait to dive in again. It does get easier and more enjoyable. It's been a fun ride again to journey the trip of picking up the guitar after 30 so years. Here is my question. Both my amps are all tube. One of age with no standby switch, the newer one with. Because of my back problems, sometimes I only get a set in of practice for 15-20 minutes tops. I worry about powering up and down and the effects of doing so. Not a big deal on working days. But on weekends this might happen 5-6 times a day if not more. If and when I'm done for a rest on the back, (after 20 minutes of playing). I usually leave them on for another half hour tops. Should I just be leaving them on during the weekends knowing well that I will dive back in an hour or so later? I so envy you guys that can practice and play for hours on end. Strapping up and standing is a huge help. But I'm back on the bicycle of learning once again and still need to see where I'm playing for now. Hence the hunched over back while sitting. So do I power up and down, or let em' sit? Thanks again to all.
  4. Hey Rix, The penny I measured was 0.053 on the edge. Not quite the 0.062 but as I said it made an easy starting point for me. I agree with what you and Milod said. If it works for me, then that's all that matters. I will be on the search for something closer to the magic number but was happy with the results and the easy on the eyes. Using the ruler was just killer impossible for me.
  5. Hello again and have yet another question and the share of an idea. I went with the idea to adjust the string action on my Epi Nighthawk. Searching the web once again, it seems like 4/64th's is the magic starting point. Unless my math has failed me over the years, that is 1/16th or close too 0.062 which is about the thickness of a new penny. My old eyes don't handle the look about of a ruler and the top of the 17th fret to the bottom of the string. It just was not happening. I went with this and of course the old strings that were due for a change. I started with the low E and used the corner of the penny on the 17th fret. Removed the string after adjustment for a better visual and moved on to the next, and so on. I do realize that taking string tension away from the neck changes things, and I did tweak the remaining as I moved along. But with the ruler thing and eye level view, up or down of your own head. Is it that critical actually? The penny trick worked for me and seemed so simple even with old man X's 300 glasses. It was very easy to see if the penny fit. (not the glove, the penny ) #036; Just thought I would share for old eyes and old timers sake. It worked for me as a starting point.
  6. Hi again Aster. You have been great help throughout this and I follow you on the cone movement. It makes perfect since to me and I'm happy with that. I can't tell any difference either way regardless. I just play at home and never push that hard anyway. Just always find excitement in learning. To answer some of your questions. Why close it up? Just for grins mostly. I have changed out the old speakers and one of the new is the Swamp Thang. So basically, I've interrupted the original design and purpose, and as I said, ( just for grins sake ). I'm at a happy point now and going to leave as is. It was indeed a 2 prong plug until today. I have been meaning to change it and finally did. I never got shocked, but I run my two amps in stereo though my RP 350 pedal board and was always getting a small pop thru the speakers when touching one or the other for adjustments. That is gone now. Not knowing much about household wiring, I looked at many conversions online. I never did see anything like what is called the dead mans cap. The two wires consisted of one going to the fuse, the other going to a post on the transformer. Same color but the small lettering went to the fuse. What diff? when you have a plug that goes either way? I wired as such. Green to base of metal chassis, black to the fuse, and white to the post on transformer. No more, no less. Am I missing something? All seems fine and like I said, that annoying pop thru the speakers on the touch this, touch that, is gone. I do realize I had no business going in, but did stay away from everything else. I have been automotive wiring all my life and know the potential of condensers and stuff. We used to give a points condenser a quick charge per battery voltage and you could get a pretty good bite from it. Ha! just dated myself. Points? what are those? Anyway, thanks again for all your help and education. I'm good with the outcome unless you find a possible glitch or fault in the way I wired it to 3 prong. I'm sure I'll be back again with more questions of a different sort.
  7. Wow! I think I finally figured out how to reply without all the past info added in. Sweet......... Big thanks to both Aster and Rix for your help. I switched the wire with the ( little tiny writing ) on it to the negative post on the first speaker in line, and I now am pushing both speakers. Mission accomplished. To Aster: As little as I know about your explanation's and the world of speakers, I found it very educational. My direction of thought was I need the speakers to be pushing because I am thinking about closing in the cabinet . It is an old stand up combo and I will of course leave the head part open for cooling purpose. But thru all my studies in past. They made clear a closed back cab needs to be pushing. Not a big deal with an open back. Is this true or false in your opinion? Thanks again to all and I find embarrassment in asking so many questions. I really don't play that well but sure do enjoy learning and trying new things. The tinkering and learning helps keep the frustration away of not playing well. Stay focused and keep at it. Right????? :unsure: Many thanks again..........
  8. Good idea Rix, I had to get my magnifying glasses out and sure enough...... little tiny letters and such. Thanks man........
  9. Thanks again Aster, I'm still a little lost but let me start by answering a few of your questions. No--- there is no speaker jack. The wire that looks like a household electrical cord comes from a transformer and goes directly to the first speaker closest too the electronics. Yes --- the two speakers are wired parallel and both are clearly marked + or - . I did use my ohm meter from each speaker wire coming from the transformer to the metal chassis of the amp. I was thinking I would get an open with one, but not the case. Also as Rix mentioned, I did find very small writing on one of the wires going to the speakers. That's the closest thing for discovery that I've came up with. (and if indeed that one is the negative, I do have them backwards. I'm out of spades and they are soldered now. So I'll get them swapped later. Thanks again.
  10. Thanks Aster but that was not I was after. I"m trying to figure out as Larry stated in another reply. How do I tell the polarity of the wires coming out of the amp? Can I just power up and briefly touch the terminals on the speaker with the amp wires?
  11. Hello again: I'm stumped once again on the right and wrong. I have an fun, old, and retubed UNIVOX 255R that has 2x12 wired parallel. My question is... The cord to feed the speakers is all one color and no markings. So how do I determine which is + or - ? It's mostly an open back amp but have gave thought to closing it up for a test run with the understanding that the movement of the cones is most important when closing one in. How do I tackle this? I tried playing a note or two with my finger on the cone, but it's really hard to tell for sure. Feels like it goes backwards, but I can't be sure. I have heard that a cone can be checked with the quick contact of a multimeter but my speakers are well marked. I need to know what I'm delivering from the amp, without doing something bad. Can that same test be run by just switching the wires with power on? Sounds a bit scary to me. Last question. If I were to leave it open in the back. Does it matter? Thanks again..... Just call me manyquestions.
  12. Thanks Rabs... for the reply. That was a great link you provided. Kind of explains all... as to where I'm going. The amp head I'm getting is the Peavey Windsor and I now know and understand their search. Most really like the amp except for the lack of cleans and/or headroom. It's a beast from what I understand, but can be tamed towards acceptance for clean with some tube swaps. That's all I'm after for this head and have never had a dirty amp before this. I just had never heard of headroom until I started checking out the Windsor. It was all new to me and I appreciate your help and input. I'm 59 and never to old to learn. Plus... I laid down the guitar for 35 years and am getting fired up all over again. AND Loving it..... Thanks again... Steve
  13. Hello all. It's me again and beginning to feel like the Lone Ranger here. Seems like nobody views this spot except me and just a few others. I'm trying hard with the learning curve and hate the embarrassment of being the only one in class with my hand in the air. I'm trying to learn a little on preamp tube swaps. I'm not going to throw in a mix of tubes here. But would like to understand what they mean by. "I have no headroom." or "it gives me more/less headroom"? I have read and read many links till I'm blue in the face. I get all the possibilities when swapping tubes and that being a personal feel for your tone. But everyone involved already knows what that question of mine is all about. What is headroom? hehe.... they talk so freely about it and I'm at a big duh!!!.... I will indeed Google (headroom for an amp next) but if it's anything like all the rest of the sites. I will still get 100 answers that are all different, including cap and resistor swaps. I first need to understand headroom. Thanks again to all and looking forward to some easy understanding of definition. Just for grins and who ever has stayed with me. Enclosed is a pic of my refurbished cabinet. I repaired all tolex tears and dressed her up a tad for the Windsor mate to soon arrive. The corner pieces are yet to be painted black.
  14. Thanks to each and everyone of you for your input. I will leave them alone except for a light vacuum brushing before the reinstall. They are definitely heavy with the dust at the bottom. As I said, the speakers are fine right now. Just have the cab apart for new tolex and wanted to put it back together will all the TLC I can give it. Thanks again....
  15. Hello to all and best wishes for the holiday season. I have my cabinet down for new tolex and although the speakers are still in good shape. They are 23 years old and I'm sure have dried up some over the years. Before I reinstall them, is there something that can be done to treat them? I did a lot of checking online and was not impressed with the fact of making them look pretty again. It all seemed harsh and could effect cone vibration. The best I saw was an application of linseed oil with careful strokes of a brush. Still not liking it. Maybe the answer is... do nothing!.. If so, I'm game. I'd rather let them live their life to the fullest than do something stupid. My thought was to spray the cone's face with a light mist of something like lemon pledge and be done. I would really appreciate input on this before I start to reassemble. They are Celestion G12K-85's if that helps. Thanks again....
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