L5Larry

This IS the OEM case that fits the MM. Also available in TKL's "Prestige" line for a few bucks more.

The tuning machine style under discussion is designed to be a factory sealed, permanently lubed gear box. The little hole is a "weep hole" (allows the overflow/over-packing to get out), not a fill hole. This gear box is also packed with GREASE not OIL. Just an FYI.

This is your answer.

Yep, sounds good. I agree with everything you've listed, EB-0 model, pots date to '63, serial number comes up '64. Model availability and features also fit those years. A 1964 EB-0 it is!

Maybe there's a way to make the offer of a "restitution" deal with the criminal charges dropped after payment and a reasonable length of "probation" (it seems around here they like to use two years for that). The Prosecuting Attorney of your jurisdiction would be the one to talk to. They are usually receptive to any arrangement that is satisfactory to the "victim", and helps clear court dockets.

Thoroughly enjoyable (as always) Buc.

So..... "I bought a $500 Epiphone, why is it not the same guitar as a $2000 Gibson". Is this what you're asking?

Of all the Gibsons I've owned over the years, it's been pretty much a 50/50 split on neck wood. For some completely unknown, and unidentifiable reason, I prefer the maple necks.

It has been my understanding that the first Korina '58 style reissues were the 82/83 "Heritage" series.

Once again we have an environmentally/geographically specific question, and the OP did not fill out the "Location" area of the profile page. A "major cold snap coming"... that's 50'F to someone in Miami, or -10'F in the northern US, not to mention the specific environmental conditions of our International members. To ALL members.... Fill out your location, this information is REALLY helpful in answering MANY question that are posed here on the Gibson forums.

NOPE! A full set of photos would easily answer any doubts or suspicions.

75,76, & 77 serial numbers were typically on waterslide transfer decals.

This statement alone tells me this is NOT something you should even think about doing yourself. Take it to a reputable local guitar "technician"!

See post #4!

The pot codes are usually on the bottom of the pot cans (some, but not many, are on the side). You can view this area with a dental type "inspection" mirror (available at any hardware or auto parts store) through the treble side f-hole. You will also need to have a small "penlight" type flashlight. Stick the mirror in the f-hole and shine the flashlight into the mirror to reflect the light (and view) up toward the bottom of the cans. There should be two sets of numbers, one is a part number, the other is a mfg/date code. You are looking for a 7-digit number usually starting with "137". This code number gives you the manufacturer (in most cases "137" for CTS), and the following four numbers are the year and week the pots were made. So, the pot code format is MMMYYWW. M = mfg, Y = year, W = week. For example, a pot code of 1377401 was made during the first week of 1974 by CTS Corporation. This gives you a "born after" date, for obviously a guitar with 1974 pots could not have been made in 1973. Since Gibson buys parts is large quantities, it's not impossible to know when their stock is used up and reordered (or a few left at the bottom of the bin for years), but it is generally accepted theory that a 6-month supply of parts is a reasonable assumption. So a guitar with pot codes of the first half of the year, and maybe even through the third quarter (into the fourth?), would have been made same year as the pots. In any case, this puts a "date" on one of the parts of the guitar. Now here's the kicker.... in many cases the pots codes have been covered up by the solder connections of the ground wires. You've got four chances to get an entire code off one pot, or partials off more than one, that add up to the proper format Even just get the last four or five digits off one is better than nothing. Let us know!

There has been so much conjecture and conspiracy theories (and photos of other guitars) stated in this thread, I can no longer tell the fact from fiction, but... I'll add my 2-cents anyway (you knew I would). IF the guitar has been refinished (or repaired), this can generally be determined by examining it under black-light. According to my published sources, the 200,000 series numbers were used again in '73, '74, and early '75 (not just 1973). I'll say it one more time - POTENTIOMETER CODES! They do not lie. Adding this piece to the puzzle, along with many of the features that have been discussed above, and you will determine within about 6-months (or less) when this guitar was built. The ONLY real mystery I see in this guitar is the orange label pasted over the Norlin label.

What are the potentiometer codes?

I received a PM from the OP requesting my IMHO, so here goes. Good info above. I think what it boils down to is: The serial number is the standard "Gibson USA" format. If this was a "Custom Shop" guitar it would be identified as such by a special serial number, Custom Shop logo, or both. I lean toward the "special run" theory. Even as far back as the early 70's Gibson dealers have been able to order a "batch" of special run guitars with modified specs. These guitars are just another production order to Gibson, and are not documented by them (or the dealer) as anything special. The "GC Exclusive" is not a new concept, it's just now used as a advertising/marketing tool.

DO NOT pull the strings straight up off the neck, you run the risk of serious neck or headstock damage (or breakage). Stretch the strings SIDEWAYS with a normal string-bending playing motion. Three wraps around the tuner post is all you need. Too many and the string can continue to "stretch" within the abundance of extra wraps, too few and the string can "slip" through the anchor hole.

Gibson NEVER made amps, they contracted then out!

This is absolutely WRONG information. You really need to increase your level of "vintage guitar education" before you go spouting off like this. We pride ourselves here at the Gibson.com forums on truth and accuracy, because if you read it on the internet....it must be true!

OR, just cut the connectors off your existing pickups leaving enough wire to spice to the bare wires to any pickup you want. Quick-connect them back into the circuit board and you're done. A little solder and heat-shrink tubing is all you need.

Professionally speaking, your best bet to get a natural, and traditional sound from an archtop guitar is with a pickguard mounted humbucker type pickup. The entire assembly (pickup, vol. control and jack) can be mounted to a "replacement" pickguard and installed on the guitar. Here's what the first assembly looked like on my 1947 L-7: I've since changed it to a fancy multi-bound pickguard and chicken head knob. The two major brand names of this type of pickguard mounted humbucker are "Kent Armstrong" and "Bennedetto". There are also Piezo type contact pickups that mount under the bridge bass (I believe Fishman makes one), so there are options. The above type system is what works best for me.

The name of my Les Paul is "Standard", Gibson even engraved it on the truss rod cover for me (no charge)!

Before I jump into this discussion, I would like you to furnish enough detailed information to indeed confirm that it IS a 1973. Yes there were a few Standards made in '73, but serial number alone is not enough to identify them. So... If you would like to furnish some detailed photos (especially front and back of the headstock), the serial number and the potentiometer codes, I'll be glad to tell what a little quick research in published sources can tell you about your guitar.