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About Flintc

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  1. I'm not sure I understand exactly what the problem is here. Guitar necks change due to temperature and humidity. Higher humidity bends necks backwards (strings go sharp), low humidity bends them forward. This is going on ALL THE TIME. Guitar stores find it necessary to adjust truss rods regularly, or run humidifiers and dehumidifiers to keep the humidity constant. Changes like bridge height or string gauge also usually entail neck adjustments. I've found that even carbon fiber necks sometimes require an adjustment, though I don't really understand why beyond changing string gauge. Changes to new guitars are inevitable - you're going to change to your favorite strings, right? And some models have very long "unsupported" necks (acoustic necks attach to the body at the 14th fret, and the ES-335 doesn't mate up with the body until about the 19th fret.) Longer unsupported necks are more sensitive to humidity, and need more frequent adjustment. If you like super-low action without buzzing, adjustments are constant. Some pros keep the truss rod cover off and the wrench stuck onto the rod all the time, and adjust the neck between sets. Heavier strings exert more torque on the neck than super slinkys. On average, I'll do some setup like this twice a year on each guitar. A 335 is more finicky. Then again, I have a Carvin with a mahogony neck that I haven't needed to adjust for 5 years, the neck might as well be made of rock. Neck adjustment on an L5 should be a fairly rare event.
  2. I've found that it's necessary to do a direct A-B comparison, using the same amp and especially the same room acoustics. Tone will appear to change pretty drastically from a big cavernous room filled with people, and a smaller room with less ambient noise. I think room acoustics is about as important as amp selection, when it comes to tone.
  3. As far as I can tell, the differences between the Casino and the ES-330 aren't real large - there's a lot of overlap in the sound and playability. My old ears and hands can't tell all that much difference, to be honest. My eyes can see the logo, of course, and my wallet can feel the 5x price penalty for getting that logo. My advice is, get a good amp, a $600 Casino, spend $50 for a good tech to level the frets (these Chinese Epiphones have top quality woods and construction, but the fretwork is sloppy). And maybe take of the Epiphone sticker from the pickguard (in fact, take off the whole pick guard), and stick a clip-on tuner over the headstock logo so the purists won't hear it with their eyes.
  4. I asked a question here 6 months ago, and I'm still waiting for the first reply. I think it's dead.
  5. Also worth noting, that 5/16 is a nut driver, not an allen.
  6. Looks attractive, except maybe for the price. How does it sound? Are there feedback issues?
  7. You might also wish to wait for a chance to compare the 335 with the fully hollow 339-sized ES-390. I haven't seen one yet.
  8. I notice in the latest issue of the Guitar Center catalog, there's a full page ad announcing the resurrection of the Toby bass. Same Tobias headstock, priced at $200. Has Gibson now decided to use the Tobias name to go into competition with Rondo and Rogue?
  9. I wonder if the 335 and 339 aren't being confused with the 355 and 359, which have block inlays?
  10. My guess is, this "tapped" sound is intended to produce a vintage tone from the days when different (and weaker?) magnets were used. It is a different sound, but I don't use it much.
  11. I also bought one of these, mine is the chocolate variety. I have no problem with the glossy top/satin sides and back, but I don't think the finish had quite hardened when GC received it, and I found it necessary to yank off the hardware and buff out the top with automotive rubbing compounds (3 grades) to get it back to perfectly reflective. Since then, it hasn't changed. But then again, I didn't get it for the finish anyway, I got it for the P90 sound in a larger semi-hollow, which to me sounds like God's Own guitar. This is NOT an entry-level Gibson, it's not inexpensive, and it's extremely well made. I don't much care what happens to the resale value someday, since it will never be for sale. I consider myself fortunate to have snagged one of these while I could.
  12. Flintc

    New ES 339

    Would that be the 2013 model ES-339 without any F holes? I kinda like the F holes myself.
  13. My understanding was that laminated tops started being put onto fully hollow guitars to fight feedback, which allowed the guitarist to turn up the amp and be heard in the orchestra. Adding the center block for the semi-hollow turned archtops into basically solid body guitars anyway, at which point I'd guess the laminate was kept for cost reasons. And I notice Gibson is advertising their 2013 ES-339 without F-holes, which they say is yet another effort to reduce feedback.
  14. Make sure you have a buyer before you flip the LP. Otherwise, you might be sitting on a white elephant while you actually play something that fits your needs.
  15. For what it's worth, I bought a "Guitar Center new" 335 that had enough play by sweaty people so the finish was very cloudy. Ordinary guitar polish didn't touch it. Finally, I took off all the hardware, got three grades of automotive rubbing compound and a powerful drill with a big buffer wheel and went to work. After a few hours and several iterations, I had an excellent clear glossy finish with very little loss of color. Hint: if you do this, be sure to mask the F-holes!
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